Everytime I have tried to clock it that way it doesn't do well. But I can try again tomorrow and see if I can get it to work for me.
How do I stop my car from running lean?
- Thread starter RyneLightning
- Start date
Everytime I have tried to clock it that way it doesn't do well. But I can try again tomorrow and see if I can get it to work for me.
And BE SURE you have cleaned the maf sensing elements with electrical contact cleaner.
Do you still have the CEL? If so, you have more going on than just maf clocking...
Do you still have the CEL? If so, you have more going on than just maf clocking...
Yeah I did clean the elements, and yes it is still throwing the CEL, but I'm not sure what it is for.
I'm running a 80mm C&L through the 4'' AFM power pipe. I've never heard of clocking the MAF till I stumbled across this thread. I tried all kinds of little tuning things and just thought I would never find the little gremlin causing the issue.
Yep, thank God for the internet. Wish it was what it is today back when I started messing around with these cars and aftermarket parts. Glad it worked for you.
Now if we could just get Ryne line out............:shrug:
Alright I clocked it at every single position I could think today, and got nothing! Just for fun I went to autozone and tried a New IAC valve, because it is a way cheaper fix, and luckily they let me try it before i bought it, because it didn't work.
After all of this, I am just going to order the new MAF sensor, and if it doesn't work, then it is out of my hands. She'll be going to the shop.
After all of this, I am just going to order the new MAF sensor, and if it doesn't work, then it is out of my hands. She'll be going to the shop.
How much drive time did you allow after clocking? You need to allow for several start/stop cycles to let everything settled in.
The CEL showing lean really bothers have you done a good check for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks? They can play havoc with all kinds of things.
Do you have any friends with some 19# injectors and stock maf laying around? Would be nice to throw them in there and see how it acts.
I'm really starting to lean toward the maf not being the big culprit. There is something else going on, whether it be a vacuum leak, burnt/bent valve, egr hung open, etc.
Ok, before you take to a shop, go under the car and physically unplug the o2s. Yes, I said that. Now, take for a test drive. Take it easy and don't go crazy, just a normal drive. Post results.
The CEL showing lean really bothers have you done a good check for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks? They can play havoc with all kinds of things.
Do you have any friends with some 19# injectors and stock maf laying around? Would be nice to throw them in there and see how it acts.
I'm really starting to lean toward the maf not being the big culprit. There is something else going on, whether it be a vacuum leak, burnt/bent valve, egr hung open, etc.
Ok, before you take to a shop, go under the car and physically unplug the o2s. Yes, I said that. Now, take for a test drive. Take it easy and don't go crazy, just a normal drive. Post results.
I hate to say it, but I was thinking the same thing after his last post. It could be a valvetrain issue.............:nonono:
I guess the only thing with that is that is has run well, or it least like it sounds like it did. And then if starts to run like crap again......dunno
Yes I was driving it for a while, I mean I would go drive it for atleast 30 miles, I would drive the car all night, and then when I would crank it the next day, it would be running like crap again.
I did the "dollar bill" test for the valves at first, and it was fine.
And even when it is idling bad, it still runs like a bat out of hell in WOT......
And the EGR is plugged, and Everything else was plugged too, unless I am missing something,
but hopefully the MAF will be here soon so I can see.
OHHH AND!!!
I let my brother drive it home from the store the other day, and I followed him in his, and I noticed that the exhaust coming from the left pipe(from the back) looked different then the right.
When it was acting up it was MORE BLUE then the right side, the right side looked normal, and the left side was blue is what I mean to say.
significance?
I let my brother drive it home from the store the other day, and I followed him in his, and I noticed that the exhaust coming from the left pipe(from the back) looked different then the right.
When it was acting up it was MORE BLUE then the right side, the right side looked normal, and the left side was blue is what I mean to say.
significance?
Blue smoke equals burning oil. That's not good. Do you still have the backfiring? So fill me in, what's the dollar bill test?
Have you tried unpugging the o2s yet?
Have you tried unpugging the o2s yet?
I read somewhere that it comes from the computer dumping gas into bank 2 because its reading lean. And it wasn't a real thick blue, it almost looked like it was running rich, and it even smells like it.
But anyways...
The dollar bill test is where you hold up a dollar bill at the exhaust pipe to see if it sucks it in, if it sucks it in, you have a burnt valve.
But I havn't gotten to the 02's yet, i just saw that you posted it about an hour ago, and it is raining so i'll try and check it tomorrow.
Overfueling will be black smoke, burning oil is blue smoke. Both banks are lean so both should have eual amounts of overfueling.
If you don't have cats on the car, it will always smell rich at the exhaust.
Does it still backfire after all the clocking?
If you don't have cats on the car, it will always smell rich at the exhaust.
Does it still backfire after all the clocking?
No, I havn't got it to backfire in a while, But now that I put the timing down to 10* it doesn't quite perform like it did.
Oh and does anyone know why the timing jumps up when I put the Spout plug back in? about 4* it seems
That is perfectly normal. Spout out is base timing, and the EEC cannot add timing. Spout in and the eec is allowed to advance the timing.
In fact, the eec also uses timing to help control idle. If you put a timing light on, spout in, and watch timing during a surging idle, you'll see it fluctuating in an attempt to help stabilize the idle speed.
No backfire is good, sounds like the MAF might be close on clocking position. Keep us posted if it backfires again, and try to tell if it backfires up the intake or in the exhaust.
In fact, the eec also uses timing to help control idle. If you put a timing light on, spout in, and watch timing during a surging idle, you'll see it fluctuating in an attempt to help stabilize the idle speed.
No backfire is good, sounds like the MAF might be close on clocking position. Keep us posted if it backfires again, and try to tell if it backfires up the intake or in the exhaust.
When it did backfire, it was definately not in the exhaust, it was coming from the top of the engine, or that is what it sounded like, it was for sure under the hood.
BUT I drove it all day today, and it was idling pretty good, I mean it would idle fine, and then sometimes it would not be, it shut off on me twice making a turn, and it surged ever so slightly, but when it was running bad it was surging really bad, but for the most part it tried to level itself out. It just seems to me that something is faulty, and working sometimes, but when it doesn't work, it really doesn't work haha. I'm hoping the PRO-M MAF does the trick.
Last edited:
What is your idle speed at when it's idling good? My suggestion: up the idle speed another 50 rpm.
My car was similar to what you are describing until I upped the rpm just slight. I think it idles about 750 rpm, which isn't too unreasonable considering the cam.
My car was similar to what you are describing until I upped the rpm just slight. I think it idles about 750 rpm, which isn't too unreasonable considering the cam.
Users who are viewing this thread
