What About The Way They Tell You In The Manual. Is That Wrong
How To Adjust Clutch Cable
- Thread starter jm@ReischePerf
- Start date
good question!!!!:??::??::??:
Yes that is the problem, the auto-adjuster does not keep enough tension on the cable once the clutch/PP ages; that is the whole point of this mod!
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This doesn't soften the clutch though, does it? I may eventually have to go aftermarket since my wife has a hard time in traffic with the OEM.
The only real way to make the clutch pedal softer is to get a different clutch.
thank you for this information jmproductions and zxmustangs :beer:
i had a new hipo clutch installed in the spring and by the end of the summer i was having diffuculty going into reverse and with the 1-2 shift at anything over 3k (was like hitting a wall)
also i could tell that the clutch was not fully releasing even by depressing the pedal all the way into the firewall. also i could feel the shock when going into gear at idle and the car even slightly going forward or reverse if i started the car with clutch depressed and in 1st or reverse. (not a good thing but i was trying to understand the mechanism more closely.) i even tried to get more throw by putting a few pieces of heater hose over the quadrant.
i was under the impression that i had no more teeth on the quadrant so it could not adjust any further. so i was the verge of getting an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster
under there the other day i could see that there were about 4 more teeth to play with so by pushing up on the quadrant and simultaneously pulling up on the pedal i got two more clicks. made a night/day difference! instead of clutch engaging at the floor, it engages halfway up, and reverse and 1-2 are like butter. havent tried a 6k 1-2 shift yet tho
if as you say fast high rpm shifting will undo what i have done then i will see about bending that tab out of the way. also i did notice that at a light if you accidentally pull up on the pedal even a little bit it will revert back to where it was before, which is not cool
but all this is really helping me learn about the mechanism better :thumbsup:
i had a new hipo clutch installed in the spring and by the end of the summer i was having diffuculty going into reverse and with the 1-2 shift at anything over 3k (was like hitting a wall)
also i could tell that the clutch was not fully releasing even by depressing the pedal all the way into the firewall. also i could feel the shock when going into gear at idle and the car even slightly going forward or reverse if i started the car with clutch depressed and in 1st or reverse. (not a good thing but i was trying to understand the mechanism more closely.) i even tried to get more throw by putting a few pieces of heater hose over the quadrant.
i was under the impression that i had no more teeth on the quadrant so it could not adjust any further. so i was the verge of getting an aftermarket quadrant and adjuster
under there the other day i could see that there were about 4 more teeth to play with so by pushing up on the quadrant and simultaneously pulling up on the pedal i got two more clicks. made a night/day difference! instead of clutch engaging at the floor, it engages halfway up, and reverse and 1-2 are like butter. havent tried a 6k 1-2 shift yet tho
if as you say fast high rpm shifting will undo what i have done then i will see about bending that tab out of the way. also i did notice that at a light if you accidentally pull up on the pedal even a little bit it will revert back to where it was before, which is not cool
but all this is really helping me learn about the mechanism better :thumbsup:
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THANKS AGAIN FOR HELPING ME OUT WITH THIS ONE...
BTW: my clutch got a lot lighter when I moved the engagment all the way up. Better than trying to put a hole in the floor just to get the damn thing to disengage/engage.
Anyways I got lazy and didn't bend the metal piece all the way out of the way. It was to the point that it wasn't interfering but still rubbed, causing a screeching noise. Well the people who did my clutch/FWA/CQ got that thing to bend like a piece of paper:lol:
Great mod and highly recomended
:beer:
:dw:Okay fellas, this mod looks like it is for when the clutch is not fully disengaging when to the floor.....I just had my clutch cable replaced by the local ford house, and now I let the clutch all the way out and SLIP CITY! Can I still bend the tab out of the way, and adjust it the OTHER WAY in order for the clutch to ENGAGE when I let it out? When I go to boost, the clutch just spins....
this is the same problem i'm having.
your cable is probably too tight.
I don't think it's any lighter up high but I noticed it does take less pressure to hold it on the floor which is nice :thumbsup:
Either that or the clutch is toast.
I know this thread is long dead, but if you do purchase the aftermarket quadrant AND the firewall adjuster from just about anybody out there, THE STOCK CLUTCH CABLE should be the desired cable to use. The stock cable is still the best out there. With the FWA/ Adjustable quadrant, all adjustments will be made at the firewall. I just bought a Zoom adj. cable (not wanting the adjustability of the cable but I was in a bind: Ford was out of stock for the FRPP part [163.00 for stock replacement, unh unh..] and the Oreilly PLASTIC sleeved stock replacement couldn't take the heat-literally-even with header wrap) and I set the adjustable cable as far out as I could, enough to keep the nut and jamb nut on with about a full thread showing behind them, then set the cable through the FWA and onto my aftermarket quadrant. All adj. are made at the firewall. I hope this helps--actually, you've probably had your stuff installed for about a month now--maybe it will help someone else;-)
I finally got my fat 275lb arse under there and got a couple clicks :lol1:....shifts like butter WOW! :banana: and i thought it was something to do with the pp/clutch firewall adj or quad but NO! Only thing thats kind of weird is the pedal being so high up now :shrug: theres no clutch slip but the pedal is a couple inches higher then the brake any way to lower the pedal once the metal piece is moved:??:. If no i can get use to the pedal hight, specially since it goes into gear, hell a higher pedal should be more comfortable for my short g/f since she needs the seat all the way forward. Now that you dont need to push the pedal through the floor she may not have to tilt the steering column all the way up to get out of the car now .:lol:
i dont think this thread is dead at all
this thread contains very viable information for owners who still have stock quadrant setup
one manually-adjusted click (which btw did NOT happen by pulling up on pedal only) made all the difference in the world on my car
fwiw, i still have not bent the metal tab back out of the way to keep it from as described by the op. i may have to if i notice it does not hold, but so far so good
i have done several 6k+ wot shifts and it has held by itself
this thread contains very viable information for owners who still have stock quadrant setup
one manually-adjusted click (which btw did NOT happen by pulling up on pedal only) made all the difference in the world on my car
fwiw, i still have not bent the metal tab back out of the way to keep it from as described by the op. i may have to if i notice it does not hold, but so far so good
i have done several 6k+ wot shifts and it has held by itself
It will stay adjusted until you drop the clutch out as soon as it hits the metal tab it will reset itself. Try pushing the pedal down and slide your hand off the pedal and let the pedal pop up from the floor and it will reset if the metal tab is still there at least thats what mine did.
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this thread is not dead, i'm still having the issue, but my car is down for the winter. i have the fiore quadrant and firewall adjuster ready to install, and am going to reuse the stock cable, as everyone has stated, it appears to be the best one out there
Only thing thats kind of weird is the pedal being so high up now theres no clutch slip but the pedal is a couple inches higher then the brake any way to lower the pedal once the metal piece is moved?? anyone??? :whine:
I was thinking about getting a fiore adj. and quad. but they way the car shifts now im going to spend that money elsewhere.
I was thinking about getting a fiore adj. and quad. but they way the car shifts now im going to spend that money elsewhere.
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I kind of doubt that there's anyway to make the pedal engage lower in the travel because the clutch needs that full range of motion to engage and disengage. I'll admit it does take some getting used to, but well worth not missing shifts.
yup yup!
03cobramanIII
Banned
are the after market quad's like the ones used on the fox bodies, and dont use the teeth?
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