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How to lower your clutch pedal for quicker, firmer, shifts and performance driving.

Discussion in 'How-To' started by LargeOrangeFont, Aug 21, 2006.

  1. LargeOrangeFont

    LargeOrangeFont Raise your fist in resist Established Member

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    Hey guys,

    Sorry I did not see the recent posts here.

    Svtsilversnake is right, As long as you can get enough pedal throw, you can use any pedal height adjuster. The list of parts in this thread will assure success with the quick relase quadrant being absolutely key.
     
  2. dpancer

    dpancer New Member Established Member

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    Curacao
    Bringing this back again.

    just installed mm pedal height adjuster with quick release quad and fiore FWA. Have a brand new performance clutch cable from mm in as well. I have about a 1/2" brass washer between the cable flange and the flange of the fire wall adjuster.

    First I had the Pedal sitting about 14" below the brake pedal and it felt shitting. There wasnt enough pedal movement and it just felt strange. Next I loosened the nut and moved the the clutch pedal about .5" above the brake pedal and finally it felt amazing. very short clutch movement (as advertised) but the release point was perfect and it felt great. Shifted amazing through all the gears.

    I through it up on a lift and inspected the TOB and it was pressing...lightly, but it was spinning with the car idling. I turned the firewall adjuster in which causing the fork to move away from pressure plate and the tob to spin much slower than the pressure plate. tested it and it felt crappy. The release point went a bit down to the floor and it just doesnt shift as nice as before.

    Now what are my solutions to get that magic point back and still keep the TOB off the pressure plate? Basically I need to increase the space between the TOB and PP without affecting pedal height or the point where the clutch engages.

    - If increase the size of the 1/2"brass spacer to a 1" what will be the result? It would essentially be like pushing the clutch pedal down about 1/2", right?
    -Removing the washer completely should add more play and allow the clutch fork to pull away from the PP giving me the space that I need. But will this affect pedal throw?

    any thoughts?
     
  3. pdm

    pdm Newbie Established Member

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    If I understand correctly, a clutch freeplay mod is what you need. It's basically a compression spring that goes over the cable between the clutch fork and the hole in the trans case where the cable comes through. It keeps tension on the cable instead of keeping tension by pressing on the TOB. This is nothing new here. A search should provide you with plenty of info
     
  4. 03cobraracer

    03cobraracer Active Member Established Member

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    I wanna get the MM pedal adjuster as I hate how the clutch pedal is so much higher then the other. I have a upr tripple hook quadrant, a stock cable, and upr firewall adj. I also have the ldc free play mod. Mine works great but it catches high on the pedal I want it lower.
     
  5. dpancer

    dpancer New Member Established Member

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    I already have the LDC free play mod. It is eliminating the free play in the clutch line. This isnt the problem I am having.
     
  6. 03snkvert

    03snkvert Active Member Established Member

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    I tried this, and couldn't get the right setup and ended up taking the pedal lowering kit off. When I would get it adjusted where the TOB wasn't riding against the pressure plate, I wouldn't get enough pedal travel to get it into gear.
     
  7. dpancer

    dpancer New Member Established Member

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    Thats pretty much the same boat im in. I just didnt have any time to play with it and mess around with different options. I was hoping someone could let me know the right steps to take before wasting time figuring it out.
     
  8. Jefe

    Jefe Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Interesting, havent put my pedal height adjuster on yet

    dpancer - Why do you have a spacer in between the cable flange and firewall adjuster? Are you making full turns on the adjuster, click to click, or just slight turns? Every little bit makes a difference. This site is divided on whether or not the TOB should be spinning or just off. Both seem to work...If you are happy with the engagement point and the TOB isnt chirping with pedal pressure, I say go with that
     
  9. dpancer

    dpancer New Member Established Member

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    Jefe check out the first page of this post. The op explains why to use the spacer.

    The problem is the tob is spinning quite fast. One click on the fw adjuster slows it down to where it is lightly spinning, but then clutch feels like crap.


    I guess I'll make time this weekend to waste time and get this figured out.
     
  10. Jefe

    Jefe Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Hmm, weird. I have the stock cable, fiore adjuster/quadrant, LDC freeplay mod, and a piece of heater hose in the firewall adjuster to keep the cable aligned. My TOB doesnt spin at idle, tiny adjustments to the adjuster made quite a bit of difference with the engagement point. I want to get the pedal down a couple inches though
     
  11. 03snkvert

    03snkvert Active Member Established Member

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    Do you have the MM pedal lowering kit?
     
  12. Jefe

    Jefe Well-Known Member Established Member

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  13. 03snkvert

    03snkvert Active Member Established Member

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    That is what is making this difficult. I have pretty much the same parts as you, but couldn't use the pedal lowering kit, and keep the ton off of the pressure plate.

    There are discussions though on whether or not it is OK for the tob to spin with the pressure plate
     
  14. Jefe

    Jefe Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I have mine off the PP. After I installed this TOB 40k miles ago, we had it slightly resting on the pressure plate. 1000 miles later it started chirping. Got it off the pressure plate and just slightly chirps when I touch the pedal. Been doing that for 3.5+ years

    Once it cools down here Im gonna put the pedal bracket on and see if it works the same. As long as my engagement point is half way or higher, I would think this would work fine
     
  15. 03SonicVert

    03SonicVert Ford Junkie since 1996 Established Member

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    Same here. Stock clutch, Steeda quick release quadrant, Steeda firewall adjuster, home made freeplay mod. I installed the MM pedal lowering kit and could not get a good adjustment. With the clutch pedal adjusted to the same height as the brake there was no way the pedal would go low enough to allow the shifter to go into gear. With the MM piece and the clutch pedal adjusted as high as it would go I still couldn't get it adjusted where the clutch would engage fully and still be able to put the shifter into gear.

    I wound up taking the MM adjuster off and now all is well but with the clutch pedal at an even plane with the brake pedal it felt like a whole new car and was really comfortable in the driveway. Maybe this only works on non-OEM clutch set-ups?

    SV
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2014
  16. speedoflife

    speedoflife Active Member Established Member

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    Back from the dead again.

    I just did this modification to the T: Steeda quick release quadrant, Steeda FW adjuster, modified (per the first post exactly) stock cable, homemade freeplay mod, and MM pedal adjuster kit.
    I have the pedal adjusted as high as the kit allows. I have the FW adjuster turned all the way in (towards firewall). The modulation and shifting feel fantastic, but I have one slight problem: the TOB has a small amount of pressure on it at rest. I cannot adjust it in any way away from the PP fingers anymore. If the car shifts fine and clutch engagement is fine, will it be ok to leave the pressure on the TOB? I know the can of worms that question opens and I know the arguement both ways but I can't tell how much pressure is on it. As long as the clutch makes full engagement can it be too tight? Or will the additional pressure just mutilate the TOB? I personally think that the ultimate TOB life is given by keeping it TOTALLY off the fingers. The next best is to have slight pressure. The worst is somewhere in between which causes friction on the lip of the TOB as it constantly comes on and off the fingers which heats it and boom. So will this slight pressure cause premature wear of the clutch and/or TOB? Or is it ok as long as the car drives fine?

    Maybe I'll just be the test dummy....
     
  17. speedoflife

    speedoflife Active Member Established Member

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    I'm not letting this die. Best mod I've done for the driveability of my car. Everything is good after 5k miles now. I still think this should be stickied....

    image_2.jpg
     
  18. Stage 4.6

    Stage 4.6 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Agreed that this is a very good mod, but now if we can determine the proper way the TOB is suppose to work? this would be of great help! I know what the common sense answer is, but I had the same problem as many others here my car would engage and shift better when then TOB was what i thought slightly riding on then PP.
     
  19. speedoflife

    speedoflife Active Member Established Member

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    My personally vote is for constant velocity. I think (opinion) that the PP fingers should not leave the surface of the TOB lip. They should push gently on it when the pedal is out. This is how mine is setup and it has been fine so far.

    I think the PP fingers constantly coming on and off of the TOB lip while the two are moving at different speeds causes heat to build up from the friction, which mutilates the TOB. Speculation.
     
  20. Stage 4.6

    Stage 4.6 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Ive owned my GT since new (1999) and have only had a TOB issue once! My Cobra is on its 3rd TOB?
     

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