How to, The Correct Boost Bypass Mod

[black 10th vert]

Man, I wish I had seen this last week! I just relocated all of the EGR stuff from the side of the blower, and hid it in the cowl. I had to change all of the vacuum routing anyway, so this would have been super easy to do, when I was doing that. Oh well, guess, I'll have to go back at it again now!:rollseyes

 

[metaman]

Man, I wish I had seen this last week! I just relocated all of the EGR stuff from the side of the blower, and hid it in the cowl. I had to change all of the vacuum routing anyway, so this would have been super easy to do, when I was doing that. Oh well, guess, I'll have to go back at it again now!:rollseyes

Well, I did not really touch the EGR lines. Just the lines going to the boost actuator and the FRPS. Those should still be there if you moved all of the EGR stuff. The only thing I did to the EGR lines was put some of the conduit over them to get them to blend in better after I put the 1/2 inch conduit back on the lines headed back behind the blower.

 

[metaman]

yeah me to I live in cali and if going to do it do it
once so if i leave it like that and never touch it again would
something go wrong or no any hp diffrence and u put what u
took off caps lines right

Yeah, I understand Tractionless's philosophy on staying out of the boost during the summer, however my philosophy is maxium performance at all temperatures. So it will stay this way on mine permanently. I drove around in the boost during the summer with the incorrect boost bypass mod for a couple of summers and never hert the car, therefore I am confident that I will not harm anything with it set up this way. Like the originator of the idea said, this is the way that the vacuum is set up on all kenne bells and whipples.

I ended up removing all the lines that I originally capped because they where no longer functional. There is nothing changed doing this mod that would cause anything to go wrong with the car more than if it mod had not been done. It is just making the blower work the way it is supposed to at above stock boost.

 

[945LSTANG]

awesome write-up! :rockon:

 

[EvilTwins]

Question for the OP:

WHY OH GOD WHY DID YOU USE WHITE TIE-STRAPS???

Would have looked a lot better in black! lol

 

[metaman]

Question for the OP:

WHY OH GOD WHY DID YOU USE WHITE TIE-STRAPS???

Would have looked a lot better in black! lol

It made for good pictures so people could see what I was doing. And if you believe that one I will tell you another. Seriously, we had some white ones in the tool box so that is what I used. It would have looked better black.

 

[BRNRBER]

just did this mod, i did version 1.2 with the y splitter instead of the last version with the t splitter coming from the vaccum line. and i used the line that leads to the intake like he showed in the write up to connect the y to the actuator.

i forgot to put a cap on the top line that came from the actuator at first, it was sucking alot of air it seemed like until i put a cap on it. im guessing thats just normal for that vaccum? can anyone answer this?

results:
boost is not coming on to early like i though it might. under light normal throttle theres no boost! boost definitly seemed a little better from doing this mod although i didnt get to fully test it yet.

conclusion: i definitly recommend this because it seems like there are no negative effects from doing this. its also very inexpensive and easy to find parts, and it doesnt take long at all to do!

thanks for the write up!!!

 

[THE_EVIL_TW1N]

When I get my car back from the shop, I'm going to do this mod. I will datalog before and after with the MAP sensor to see if it does hold more boost on the topend.

 

[metaman]

i forgot to put a cap on the top line that came from the actuator at first, it was sucking alot of air it seemed like until i put a cap on it. im guessing thats just normal for that vaccum? can anyone answer this?

Yes, that is normal. That is why you have to cap it, to prevent vacuum loss out of boost and boost loss in boost.

boost is not coming on to early like i though it might. under light normal throttle theres no boost! boost definitly seemed a little better from doing this mod although i didnt get to fully test it yet.

Mine does not come on really low and hard like it did for Tractionless either. This is more than likely because he is spinning the blower harder than I am, and he is running more boost. It does come on sooner than before the mod though, and holds the boost up high like it is supposed to.

conclusion: i definitly recommend this because it seems like there are no negative effects from doing this. its also very inexpensive and easy to find parts, and it doesnt take long at all to do!

thanks for the write up!!!

Your welcome:beer:

 

[kennycoulter]

so, with a mail order tune, will this make any difference? i got one from rwtd, and i THINK they normally turn that stuff off, but is this separate from the solenoid itself?

 

[metaman]

so, with a mail order tune, will this make any difference? i got one from rwtd, and i THINK they normally turn that stuff off, but is this separate from the solenoid itself?

If you go back to post #19 in this thread then you will find where I quoted RWTD. This will answer your question.

 

[BRNRBER]

hey quick dumb question.. inbetween shifting when i lift, the boost gauge goes to zero then jumps right back up when i lay back on the gas. normal? i didnt know if the mod was supposed to keep the boost up even while lifting for shifting gears.

 

[metaman]

hey quick dumb question.. inbetween shifting when i lift, the boost gauge goes to zero then jumps right back up when i lay back on the gas. normal? i didnt know if the mod was supposed to keep the boost up even while lifting for shifting gears.

When you lift the throttle body closes. When the throttle body closes you the air that creates the boost is cut off before the blower. This is normal. If you wish to prevent this then you should get the N2MB Wide Open Throttle No lift Shift box. This unit cuts the ignition when you push the clutch in so you can keep the foot to the floor and power shift without herting the trans. If you are fast enough on the draw, then you could not drop much boost between shifts.

 

[BRNRBER]

When you lift the throttle body closes. When the throttle body closes you the air that creates the boost is cut off before the blower. This is normal. If you wish to prevent this then you should get the N2MB Wide Open Throttle No lift Shift box. This unit cuts the ignition when you push the clutch in so you can keep the foot to the floor and power shift without herting the trans. If you are fast enough on the draw, then you could not drop much boost between shifts.

makes sense! yea i need alot of seat time. the MGW shifter definitly makes shifting alot better tho!

 

[Vnmous1_04]

This thread has been of most help...damn didnt know all this stuff existed out there...especially that shift box...damn sounds like its the shit...Im gonna do both with a new ported blower i think im gonna feel a whole new different car!!!

 

[HomeboyNorm]

Good job with all the pictures in your thread here! :thumbsup:

 

[DREAMCOMETRUE]

Can this mod set a overboost and code, I think my AIT2 sensor is ready really high could it be because i done something wrong?

 

[metaman]

Can this mod set a overboost and code, I think my AIT2 sensor is ready really high could it be because i done something wrong?

There really is not a code for over boost. I think you sent me a PM and you said you had a bad IAT2 sensor that was showing 200 degrees all the time?

 

[DREAMCOMETRUE]

There really is not a code for over boost. I think you sent me a PM and you said you had a bad IAT2 sensor that was showing 200 degrees all the time?

Yes over 200c at idle... I was just wondering if it had to do with the mod, since i had done it thursday and Sunday the sensor have let go!!!!

 

[metaman]

Yes over 200c at idle... I was just wondering if it had to do with the mod, since i had done it thursday and Sunday the sensor have let go!!!!

Well, since you don't believe me then lets let the peanut gallery respond. He is wondering if this boost solenoid bypass mod could cause his AIT2 sensor to go bad from to much boost. Has anyone ever heard of boost pressure killing a temperature sensor?