I just can't win....Help Please!

LDC2335

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Supercharger Idler pulley failed on a hour trip the other day, ruined the supercharger bracket. So I Said screw it and Uninstalled the whole thing since I had been contemplating it anyway. Put everything back to stock except walbro 255 pump. Ran fine for a about 10 miles, then once I got on it good it started acting crazy and won't run right now at all. Motor shakes bad and exhaust sounds like a helicopter.

When the pulley failed, It shredded the serpentine belt. I was on I10 in the middle of nowhere so I had to drive a bit with no steering, brakes, water pump, or alternator. Towed it home and discovered the damage. Car overheated pretty bad and spewed a lot of coolant, so thought it might be head gasket but I drained the oil and there's no coolant in it, so now I'm not sure. Weird part is, it ran fine for a bit after I uninstalled everything. .

Ideas?

Troubleshooting: http://youtu.be/WOfnwU4OVuk
 
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ZeroDCX

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(Assuming you've already flashed the stock tune back). Did you swap the stock MAF back too? Spark plug gap still set for the vortech setup? Should be set back to the stock 0.054 thousands now that you're back to stock setup.

Can you data log to see if the misfire counters are increment-ing and on which cylinders? STFTs & LTFTs? I would start with the basics, checking for vacuum leaks, fuel/injectors firing and spark in each cylinder. Also a compression and leak down test wouldn't hurt.
 
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LDC2335

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Yeah, everything is back to stock. Except the pump. Had it started up and immediately ran like crap I would have thought the worst, but since it ran fine for a bit of hoping is something small.

When updating my tuner firmware a while back, it got corrupted. Sct fixed it enough to load tune files, but no data logging.
 

LDC2335

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Compression test this evening. Praying it's nothing major.

I know these motors are internally balanced, but can the crank pulley fail? Is there rubber on it that can erode off?

I'm reaching, but desperate. Car only has 75k
 
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Shake&Bake

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No rubber on the crank. Running the car with no coolant could of caused an issue or two....depending on...depending on how long it was running on Hot.
 

Tabres

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I'd be beyond shocked if it was your issue, but the crank pulley actually can fail. They're actually two pieces, with a rubber ring between the two of them. The rubber can wear out and the rings can separate. It's not happened on my Mustang but I've actually had it happen on my STi.
 

mysteed

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The crank pulley is one unit (Dorman part #594-110) and it is a single piece with no rubber. Run a compression test and check the cooling system for hydrocarbons after a few heat cycles.
 

Shake&Bake

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Listening to that video again makes me think its something to do with the spark, or lack of spark. I would double check the coil packs, wires, and gapping on your plugs.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I'd be beyond shocked if it was your issue, but the crank pulley actually can fail. They're actually two pieces, with a rubber ring between the two of them. The rubber can wear out and the rings can separate. It's not happened on my Mustang but I've actually had it happen on my STi.

the outer ring on mine exited the vehicle in the middle of the first dyno pull with my procharger...scared the hell out of me
 

LDC2335

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Got new plugs and wires going in tonight. Also have another stock coil set I can swap in. Fingers crossed.
 

LDC2335

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Coils, plugs and wires swapped. No luck.

Passed compression test with flying colors.

Fuel, injectors? Would that make the engine wobble at all rpms?

When I start/rev the car the exhaust shoots out soot and water. It's not coolant though.

Another video.

Round two: http://youtu.be/9tG3fg5Aq5U
 
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Shake&Bake

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When I start/rev the car the exhaust shoots out soot and water. It's not coolant though.

http://youtu.be/9tG3fg5Aq5U

That's normal with a cold start. Did you go back to the stock heat range with your plugs? How does it run? With spark and compression checking out I would look at the tune. Are you using the cars original tune?
 
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LDC2335

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That's normal with a cold start. Did you go back to the stock heat range with your plugs? How does it run? With spark and compression checking out I would look at the tune. Are you using the cars original tune?
New stock plugs and original factory tune.

Runs like crap. Sounds muffled like a helicopter.

The engine has a consistent wobble, not sporadic. Gets less noticeable as rpms raise.

No nocks or ticks that I can hear.

Is a tune required for a fuel pump? That's the only thing not stock. I have a Bama tune coming eventually for it.

If the crank pulley was messed up would I be able to see it?
 

DSG2003Mach1

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if the crank pulley is messed up you should be able to see it wobbling with the car idling. Otherwise look it over from top and bottom and see if any of it has slide either back toward the block or forward towards the radiator. I dont think that will be the cause of your issues though
 

Tabres

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I think I'd check the fuel pressure. Are you using the stock regulator? Wouldn't be surprised if it were getting overfueled.

I gather that the check engine light probably isn't illuminated but have you checked for any codes?
 

Shake&Bake

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I gather that the check engine light probably isn't illuminated but have you checked for any codes?

Good thinking...I would scan for codes. I would think the the fuel pump is fine since you have the stock tune loaded.

If you have the stock tune loaded and you had deleted your IMRC's that would make it run like shit below a certain RPM.
 

LDC2335

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Thanks for all the suggestions. Got my tune from Bama with imrc turned off and 255 pump.

No difference

Committed the ultimate sin and dropped it off at the dealer. That should give an indication of my level of desperate. I have to have 2 cars. I'll have to rent one next week.
 

ZeroDCX

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A tune is not required for the 255LPH. I ran my car with a stock motor on that pump for months with no issues.

Have you checked to see if your all injectors are firing and you have spark in each cylinder? Datalogging misfire counts would help greatly if you can. Also if you can datalog STFT and LTFT on both banks and look for the system removing fuel or adding fuel to compensate in order to get fuel burn back to stoichiometric (negative/positive LTFTs). Have you pulled spark plugs and checked for individual cylinders not firing, running lean, rich, etc?

Edit: ... dropped it off at the dealer!? Ouch!!!! It's going to be cheaper to have just replaced the vortech bracket and idler and continue running the vortech setup, than dealer prices for repair.
 
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LDC2335

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I tried to data log and even got my tuner firmware fixed. However it was a pain and wasn't cooperating. Tuner would freeze, or loose connection etc. I just gave up. Service manager at the Ford dealer is a Mustang guy, hopefully he'll have a clue and not dick me over.
 

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