Idle Issue - Check Engine Light

97RioRed4V

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I just finished cleaning the IMRCs, installing a 255 lph fuel pump, and replacing a coolant cross over pipe with a Vortech version. After I filled the radiator fluid, I started the car and it had a very rough idle. After 2 minutes, it had a little smoother idle. I topped off the radiator fluid and let the car cool down. After 3 hours of cooling down, I topped off the radiator fluid and turn the car on. It still has a rough idle and then the check engine light turned. on Do you think this is a vacuum leak, did I forget to connect something, or EGR issue. The car ran perfect before I decided to mess with it in anticipation of adding a Vortech blower. Any suggestions on what to check or do? Thanks!
 

Tickle

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What code is associated with the CEL? I had a similar thing happen to me, turned out to be a temp sensor wasn't plugged in all the way.
 

97RioRed4V

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Unfortunately I don't have a way to check the codes. Btw I checked and both temp sensors are plugged in all the way. FYI The idle does not bounce around like it did at first start up. It idles are 900 rpm but seem like it is not smooth. The car shakes slightly.
 
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mwolson

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Take it to Autozone or equivalent to get the codes read. If it isn't driveable, rent or borrow a code reader. Many auto parts stores will rent or loan tools.
 

Tickle

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Codes(if there are any) will go a long ways in helping troubleshoot--especially with a CEL.

When you clean IMRCs there is a possibility of causing a vacuum leak--either by not torquing everything properly or by forgetting a vacuum line reconnection. Did you take any pictures of before and after? This may help with seeing anything you missed. It's likely that you forgot to plug something back in.
 

Cookieman00x

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When the car is idling do you hear any hissing from under the hood? Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.
 

97RioRed4V

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Mwolson
-One of the guys from work will let me borrow their code reader tomorrow. I don't feel comfortable driving it 15 minutes to an Autozone or Advanced Auto. It died once on the drive but started right up.

Tickle
-I took pictures and looked everything over. It looks good but as always checking my own work looks good. Maybe a fresh set of eyes will find something.

Cookieman00X
-No hissing noise. Torqued everything to the Haynes manual specs and when over everything twice.

The only thing I can think of is the vacuum lines having possible small crack. I had to move them around several times a while I was working.
I turned it on tonight and it fired right up but it shakes more than normal. Well once I get the code reader hopefully it will give me more direction.

Thanks for the suggestions. Let me know of any other possible causes. I will keep this post updated.
 

Tickle

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Carb cleaner can help find leaks. Spray it near possible leaky areas and the idle will change if there is a leak.

There should be a vacuum diagram under the hood that will help you trace connections. I found this handy when I didn't want to thumb through a manual.
 

97RioRed4V

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Here is how the night went.

Fuel Pressure Check:
w/ vacuum 32 psi
w/0 vacuum 40 psi

Code check
P0122 Throttle - Fixed earlier when I found cable loose (not clicked on all the way)
P1000 Diagnostic - Tried to clear it didn't want to go away. I think this one is no big deal

And then I saw the light!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I found 1 -fuel injector plug disconnected!!!! This made it a lot smoother. Not perfect but then again I can't remember how it was 5 months ago. Definitely better!

Then I ran into problem number two! The battery light went on. I check the voltage before starting engine (12.9V) and I checked after starting engine (14.2V). I checked the Alternator Fuse and it is okay. The battery is less than a year old. The battery was on a trickle charger all winter. I checked the belt and it seemsed tight. Does this mean I need a new alternator?
 

97RioRed4V

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Cleaned all the ground straps except the one near the oilfilter. No more battery light on dash. Took it for a spins. Seem okay
 

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