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I'm GT500 swapping a V6... for the second time

Discussion in 'SVT Shelby GT500' started by 12wendel12, Aug 27, 2019.

  1. 12wendel12

    12wendel12 New Member Established Member

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    pfa 2.jpg PFA.jpg pfa 2.jpg pfa 2.jpg PFA.jpg In early 2018, I completed a 2007 GT500 swap in my 2008 V6 Mustang. It took me 2 months coming home from school 2 hours away every weekend to work on it. Best thing I ever did and was a great project to do with my dad. I brought the car back down to Columbus after the swap, but had told only a handful of people. We would go out racing every weekend and all of a sudden, everyone was asking about that red V6 Mustang. "Hey, have you seen that fast ass red V6 Mustang?" I had all stock GT500 exhaust, so it was quiet as hell- the perfect sleeper.

    Anyways, here I am a year later. My car got hit by a multicar accident while parked, and they smashed up my Mustang pretty damn good. I am waiting to hear back from insurance for money (for those who may ask, I added on value to the car, so they are not going to give me a V6 Mustang type of check). I am searching for another V6 Mustang with a good body, and will buy back my car and swap everything over into this new V6.

    Here's my question for SVTP members: what else should I do this time around that will be easy while everything is out? I am planning on a tubular K member, not sure what brand (BMR?). I think i will put in another oem GT500 radiator although an all aluminum radiator is in the back of my head. I may search forums for an AFCO H/E with dual fans. I want to swap my BMR upper control arm with spherical bearings for a poly bushing UCA, Ive had NVH issues but may just keep it and get the BMR mounting bracket. I have Eibach sportline springs, I am thinking about strange 10 way adjustable shocks rear for sure, maybe also front. I would do LTs but I like my car being in full sleeper mode and do not want any loud rumble on start up or idle. I would like to take out the EVAP system if anyone has a thread link to that. May also do EGR delete plate. What else would be some simple stuff to do while the engine is out that are not big power adder mods?

    Only mods are: JLT 123 running a bama 91 tune (always 93 fuel), 4.10s with Eaton TrueTrac, 15s with mickeys, BMR UCA (tried lower control arms but NVH is extreme, went back to stock), and Fore Innovations L2 return system.

    Thanks to all in advance PFA.jpg PFA.jpg and here's a PFA.
     
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  2. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    Cool project. I'd ditch the Bama tune. If you had rod ends on the LCAs, you might try poly arms there too. I had more noise transmitted from the UCA than the LCAs, but nothing I would consider to be extreme NVH. I've got poly for the upper and the lower. You'd be surprised how much a TVS changes the power output. A heat exchanger upgrade is a worthwhile upgrade, almost required if you live in the south.
     
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  3. RBB

    RBB Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I was going to say LTs, but you said you don't want to do it. They're not that bad with the stock mufflers, though, and you could even weld some resonators on to the midpipe to quiet things down a little more. I would definitely do it while the motor is out....pop a TVS on there and you're all set.
     
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  4. Need 04 Wine

    Need 04 Wine BANNED for a Month. No more games Established Member

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    Get a good tuner and hit it with a 100 shot.

    Anything else is going to take away your stealth factor.

    May want to snoop around. Was just a guy in here with bmr fitment issues. Lotta guys were saying go UPR....


    Sent from my POFS iPhone in a rage cause this is the third try.
     
  5. Weather Man

    Weather Man Persistance Is A Bitch Premium Member Established Member

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    Install the Steeda rear shock brace, it really stiffens up the car.

    20160214_165104 (Medium).jpg
     
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  6. merkyworks

    merkyworks Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Very cool build man, like the sleeper angle.

    If doing a k-member I would stick to BMR.

    Suggestion on mods while the motor is out for reliability would be;
    Billet oil pump gears (OPG)
    Maybe even upgrade to 13-14 oil pump for better flow
    Billet crank timing gear
    Maybe MMR secondary timing tensionser
    Kinetik crank stud
    Larger timing pivot pins (Not 100% sure if needed if you have an iron block)

    For a little more power but still let you fly under the radar;
    13-14 cams
     
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  7. 12wendel12

    12wendel12 New Member Established Member

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    @Catmonkey @RBB I want to go Lund eventually. I was thinking about LTs with stock mufflers and maybe some vacuum controlled cutouts, but $$$. If insurance gives me more money than I will need, LTs or a TVS could come into the picture. But you add one and then you need injectors so say 1500 (for a 13 14 tvs or LTs) plus 500-1200 for good injectors, then 650 for a Lund tune. Altogether, could be looking at upwards of 3500 factoring in tax.

    @Need 04 Wine nitrous would have me broke so fast spending $50 to fill the bottle. No doubt it would be fast but I would prefer just boost alone as my power adder. If you have the link to the fitment issue thread, please comment it.

    @Weather Man that may be a nice relatively inexpensive mod, but one thing that hasnt let me do it before is people see the x brace and no back seats then ask me to pop the hood haha. I would love to get the harness bracket and some Recaros or Braums.

    @merkyworks Thank you! How important do you think things like that are? The most boost this car will see will put it in the low to mid 600 wheel area as it is a daily driver. 34k miles right now. The other thing is I would be waiting longer to get the engine into the next car because getting inside the engine like that is past my level of expertise and my dad and uncle would have to help me out entirely. I will have to search a thread for 13 14 cams in my 5.4. First time I have heard of that cam swap.
     
  8. Need 04 Wine

    Need 04 Wine BANNED for a Month. No more games Established Member

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    @12wendel12

    I’ll go look for it


    Sent from my POFS iPhone in a rage cause this is the third try.
     
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  9. Weather Man

    Weather Man Persistance Is A Bitch Premium Member Established Member

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    The Steeda X brace does not require the back seat to be removed, it mounts behind it.
     
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  10. 12wendel12

    12wendel12 New Member Established Member

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    @Weather Man oh! Do you think its worth it for a straight line car? I dig and roll race every week and thats about it.
     
  11. Weather Man

    Weather Man Persistance Is A Bitch Premium Member Established Member

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    Huge? No, noticeable decrease in chassis twisting, yes.
     
  12. 12wendel12

    12wendel12 New Member Established Member

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    Ah gotcha, yeah I almost did a rear seat delete and X brace when the car was an actual V6 hahaha. But ill probably end up saving for some drag shocks to help put the power to the ground since my shocks are nearing 60k miles of abuse.
     
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  13. boduke0220

    boduke0220 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    That's a very cool swap!
     
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  14. merkyworks

    merkyworks Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The timing/oiling mods are good insurance stuff, it's not needed but having them could prevent a possible failure, it all depends on how you plan to use the car. Heavy shock loads like a 2-step, drag racing, dig racing have been known to cause the factory OPG to shatter, once that happens the engine starves of oil and pop goes the weasel. To change the OPG you will have to remove or have access to all the other components suggested so you might as will change them out also while you are there. The 13-14 cams are more like the cherry on top, car will idle and drive like stock but these cams give a little more power in the upper RPM range, don't remember the exact gains but I know they are out there somewhere. Again if the engine is out of the car and you where already changing the OPG then adding a cam swap to the list would be easy to do.

    For the record I only have the Kinetik crank stud upgrade on my car, not done any of the other mods cause changing them with the engine in the car is a lot more difficult than if it was out of the car. I daily my car also so no 2-step or drag strip racing, if I do happen to do some racing it's freeway roll races down in mexico ;)
     
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  15. HKusp

    HKusp Member Established Member

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    56lb/hr injectors and a boost a pump should not set you back more than $600-$700 for both. The injectors new from Ford run right around $300.
     
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  16. 12wendel12

    12wendel12 New Member Established Member

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    @boduke0220 Thank you!

    @merkyworks Darn, I was under the impression that these Shelby engines had good parts namely OPGs to start. Not coyote level OPGs. From my understanding, banging the rev limiter and 2 step (dont have) was what broke OPGs. Since I've had it, I've tried to stay off the rev limiter and shift before redline.

    @Catmonkey Yep that's what I want to do. If insurance leaves me with left over money, may have to get that trinity TVS. Only problem is I see them go up for sale one every 2 months!

    @HKusp 56 lb injectors for if I were to get longtubes is what you are talking about? Luckily I dont need BAP... Fore L2 return is whats in the car!
     
  17. merkyworks

    merkyworks Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I'm not saying if you don't do this your destined to have problems, many many others on this board havn't done OPG's etc. including myself. These were only suggestion since the motor will be out. Most don't take out a working motor so doing these items is a lot more arduous of a task, most only take out there motor cause its blown and has to be rebuilt.
     
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  18. lexustech48

    lexustech48 RIP FoMoCo 1903-2014 Premium Member Established Member

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    Do not go poly bushing UCA. Racing like you do you'll blow that bitch out launching from a dig. Ive personally done that. When it lets go hitting your pre-race burnout, launching or your 1-2 upshift, its a scary moment for sure. Stock GT500 LCA, get some UPR LCA relo brackets to fix your instant center. Keep the rod end UCA.

    Viking DA Warriors, BPS rear spring perches and Viking 150# springs will help get you out of hole more efficiently, especially if you do the relo brackets.

    Stock M122 Supercharger is going to limit you. A take off TVS would help.. Then again there's always a wet nitrous shot if you're already running a fuel system.
     

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