IMRC Options

CompOrangeStang

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So I confirmed that my IMRC are stuck closed on the new Cobra, however the PCM is telling them to open, and they have been cleaned, thus it seems my control module is bad. I'm unsure if I want to go the IMRC delete route, and even if I do, I want to wait until I do gears. That being said, does anyone make a replacement IMRC control module? I'm assuming getting this from Ford would be very expensive, assuming that they still make them. Junkyard maybe? What are my options here?
 

ViciousBlack97

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The cable snapped on my drivers side IMRC, and took a good chunk of the circuit board with it, so since this is my DD, I just took the butterflies off of the shaft, and threw the controller away. It's lost some down low, but the car's getting tuned this Wednesday, so or isn't a big deal. You just have to deal with the code it throws:bored:
 

whyxitx

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I couldn't get the butterflies out of mine easily. Ended up messing the rod up trying to get them out. Currently making deletes out of them though! I have a set of Composite deletes that will be for sale shortly if you want them.
 

98$vt

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I replaced a module after the stock module cable snapped, got it all in and together and the used module snapped a cable about 3 weeks later again. Removing the intake isnt that bad of a job, but IMO doing something twice a few weeks apart is annoying. I got IMRC delete plates and will definitely never look back. Had 3.73s at the time and felt no difference in power loss, since then i put in 4.10s but i have friends with stock ratio and deletes and didnt notice any loss down low.
 

whyxitx

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I replaced a module after the stock module cable snapped, got it all in and together and the used module snapped a cable about 3 weeks later again. Removing the intake isnt that bad of a job, but IMO doing something twice a few weeks apart is annoying. I got IMRC delete plates and will definitely never look back. Had 3.73s at the time and felt no difference in power loss, since then i put in 4.10s but i have friends with stock ratio and deletes and didnt notice any loss down low.

I have to go back into my intake for the 4th time in under 4 weeks.. my car hasn't ran since i put my deletes in. Switching to aluminum deletes to see if that makes a difference due to the gaskets matching them better.
 

98$vt

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I have to go back into my intake for the 4th time in under 4 weeks.. my car hasn't ran since i put my deletes in. Switching to aluminum deletes to see if that makes a difference due to the gaskets matching them better.

Did you just gut your stock plates? If you didn't epoxy them there will be serious air leaks.
 

whyxitx

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I bought some deletes off of a member here. Do all the holes need to be filled? I think only 3 and the end ones were filled. I'm making deletes out of my aluminum ones right now.
 

Blackbox19

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I bought some deletes off of a member here. Do all the holes need to be filled? I think only 3 and the end ones were filled. I'm making deletes out of my aluminum ones right now.
I just did the delete last weekend. I only filled the holes that adjoined anther cylinder and the ends. I knocked out the bearings also. I opened up the controller and took out the cables instead of cutting them. There is just a bone simple pressure switch in that thing that when the motor moves the cable pullers far enough around it trips the switch to say they either open or closed. I did not even take the screws out of the shaft. Took a punch and hammered the main shaft out and those little screws just sheared right off. Reason I did it that way was most of them were stripped out anyway.
When I steel puttied the holes I pushed the stuff in from top hole till it oozed out the sides a little then pushed that back in till smooth. Really was easy to do. I did not fill the holes that where part of the same cyl. I saw no need as both holes feed the same place and the thin area that the putty was to fill would not have held up.
 

whyxitx

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I just did the delete last weekend. I only filled the holes that adjoined anther cylinder and the ends. I knocked out the bearings also. I opened up the controller and took out the cables instead of cutting them. There is just a bone simple pressure switch in that thing that when the motor moves the cable pullers far enough around it trips the switch to say they either open or closed. I did not even take the screws out of the shaft. Took a punch and hammered the main shaft out and those little screws just sheared right off. Reason I did it that way was most of them were stripped out anyway.
When I steel puttied the holes I pushed the stuff in from top hole till it oozed out the sides a little then pushed that back in till smooth. Really was easy to do. I did not fill the holes that where part of the same cyl. I saw no need as both holes feed the same place and the thin area that the putty was to fill would not have held up.



Thanks man. That's what i'm doing. Need to go pick up some more JB weld!
 

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