Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods

SVT_Troy

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Just to update. Here are the new correct swaybar bushings and how they are supposed to fit. I did get the new grease-able version.

I am still working on getting the ride height just right but will update with pics once I get it all right.

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SVT_Troy

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I love the new Weld setup.

Here is the street setup. 15x10 with 6.5" bacspacing MT ET Street R P275/50R15's I kinda wish I went with a 28" instead of the 26". I do have a small spacer installed on the rears. I think its a 1/4" but not sure off the top of my head. No spacer on the front but I think im going to play with spacers to push the wheel out until its more flush with the fender.

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Track rear setup. ET DRAG 28.0X10.5-15 stiff walls. I love how the 28" tires look.

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Revvv

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I love the new Weld setup.

Here is the street setup. 15x10 with 6.5" bacspacing MT ET Street R P275/50R15's I kinda wish I went with a 28" instead of the 26". I do have a small spacer installed on the rears. I think its a 1/4" but not sure off the top of my head. No spacer on the front but I think im going to play with spacers to push the wheel out until its more flush with the fender.

View attachment 1493538IMG_8189

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Track rear setup. ET DRAG 28.0X10.5-15 stiff walls. I love how the 28" tires look.

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I think it looks good just as it is.

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ShootyMCstabby

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Crazy you want to push the front wheel/rim out a little farther. That's 1 thing I was happy about, going from the old set up w/fr500's and 275's on front. Tire/rim would stick out 1/2" or so passed front fender and bugged the crap out of me.

Thanks again for adding the battery cut off pics. Now if you could just make me the brackets too. lol
 

cj428mach

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Excited to see your intercooler mod results. I'll be installing a J2FAB intercooler setup and keeping my LFP intercooler tank in the engine bay and modding my LFP heat exchanger.
 

SVT_Troy

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Excited to see your intercooler mod results. I'll be installing a J2FAB intercooler setup and keeping my LFP intercooler tank in the engine bay and modding my LFP heat exchanger.

Of course I have more testing to do but my initial opinions on it are favorable. My setup is less than optimum with a couple 90* fittings in the loop dealing with the killer chiller to HE valve. I posted pics of them in this thread. Also I have a tank in the engine bay still.

The best thing I noticed so far is recovery. After a pull temps come down quick. I want to do some data logging to see how quickly.

Either way I think it’s a good mod. I love it paired with the killer chiller. I don’t care what anyone says about the KC my AIT2’s are almost 20* lower at all times than they are with just the HE. I do mention again my HE setup is not optimized so take that with a grain of salt.


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T3RM1N8R_18

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Do your tires rub the inner liner with the MM set-up moving the wheel forward 0.75 inch? Mine already rubs a very tiny bit with my 18 x 9.5 CCW's with 275's in the front. Was debating on the MM set-up and I have Viking coilovers for all four corners. Was worried it would really rub hard moving 0.75 forward.

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SVT_Troy

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I have not had any rubbing that I’ve seen so far. I run 18x9’s in the front with 265/35’s.

I don’t know why I waited so long to go coilovers. I absolutely love the ability to adjust ride height. I haven’t experienced any negative effects so far. I’m not corner carving with my car though. It’s quiet and rides smooth.

I can tell the soft springs (250#) aren’t meant for corners as to be expected. I’m waiting on my Viking coilovers to replace the DA Viking shocks I currently have.


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SVT_Troy

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I'm still waiting on my rear Viking coil-overs to get in but a couple small updates.

I have paid enough money on alignments and took a bit looking up different tools. I chose a company called Tenhulzen Automotive. I bought their 4 wheel alignment setup. It can do caster, camber & toe. I like it because the easy string frame allows for toe measurements that are parallel to the vehicles centerline versus setting it off the the wheel itself using toe plates or similar tools.

Another big bonus is the ability to zero the gauge allowing you to get accurate results on non level surfaces.

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assembly complete

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Link to a pic of the setup on a car.

https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/s163306113623088431_p1_i46_w12802.jpg


Something else I finally did was a quick flow check of my Intercooler setup. Basically I just removed my hose coming from the I/C to the tank and connected a larger hose over my hose then routed to a bucket. I then ran the system for 15 seconds into a bucket. Measured that amount and multiplied x4.

Here are my results.

Through the Killer Chiller:
Measured 21 cups = 1.3125 gal
1.3125 gal x 4= 5.25 gals per min

Through the HE:
Measured 19 cups = 1.1875 gal
1.1875 gal x4= 4.75 gal per min

So better than stock but im curious to how much my valve setup is really costing me in terms of flow. I am not ready to eliminate my Killer chiller as it works pretty well from what I can tell. I may consider picking up EMP/Stewart pump and see what that gets me.

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ShootyMCstabby

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Nice Troy.

I am not even thinking about getting as in depth as you on the KC but I can say. Over the weekend I was watching my iac temps go from 120-140 down to 60's in no time at all.

Man that aliment tool would be nice.
 

SVT_Troy

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Nice Troy.

I am not even thinking about getting as in depth as you on the KC but I can say. Over the weekend I was watching my iac temps go from 120-140 down to 60's in no time at all.

Man that aliment tool would be nice.

Thanks, I havent done that much work. I have just tried to use the largest ID fittings reducing the restrictions and reduce the turns/bends in the plumbing while still keeping my valve.

Are you saying your AIT2 was 60° or your intercooler reservoir fluid temps? What was the AIT's?
 
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94 Cobra R

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Amazing thread. Love reading your updates. 2 quick questions:
1) who made the radiator cover you have?

2) what intake is that?

Thanks so much!
 

SVT_Troy

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Amazing thread. Love reading your updates. 2 quick questions:
1) who made the radiator cover you have?

2) what intake is that?

Thanks so much!

Thanks a lot, it’s been a struggle at time but fun. I’ve learned soo much along the way.

1). Not 100% sure as I bought it second hand but I think it was one from bangastang when they were the only one that made them.

2.) JLT Gen2 high boost CAI


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94 Cobra R

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Thanks a lot, it’s been a struggle at time but fun. I’ve learned soo much along the way.

1). Not 100% sure as I bought it second hand but I think it was one from bangastang when they were the only one that made them.

2.) JLT Gen2 high boost CAI


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My car came with the JLT RAI, I think Gen 1, but has the Steeda metal Shield on it. Either way, it still sucks in hot air from the engine bay. I was thinking about the High Boost from JLT but their description states it won't fit with aftermarket K-members. Any issues that you've seen? My car has the full Griggs World Challenge Kit on it, which includes their GR40 setup and K-Member.
 

SVT_Troy

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My car came with the JLT RAI, I think Gen 1, but has the Steeda metal Shield on it. Either way, it still sucks in hot air from the engine bay. I was thinking about the High Boost from JLT but their description states it won't fit with aftermarket K-members. Any issues that you've seen? My car has the full Griggs World Challenge Kit on it, which includes their GR40 setup and K-Member.

Zero issues. Not sure how the K-member would interfere with the K-member.

Do you mean strut tower brace? I have the MM strut tower brace but have not installed it. Sounds like you have a really nice setup!


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94 Cobra R

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Zero issues. Not sure how the K-member would interfere with the K-member.

Do you mean strut tower brace? I have the MM strut tower brace but have not installed it. Sounds like you have a really nice setup!


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The JLT page actually states modifications may be necessary with aftermarket K-Members. Only thing I can think of is some K-Members that may move the engine an inch or two. So I shouldn't have that problem. I just want to bring in cooler air as opposed to the heat from the engine bay :)

Just bought the car, 2003 DSG with 70k miles. Lots of clean, useable mods but also some cleaning up I need to do. Typical things like surface rust on bolt heads (I'm sorta particular on that stuff), beautifully rolled fender/quarter lips but the driver's side wheel liner doesn't fit, so I'm doing the mod to fix that. Just wrapping up a Killer Chiller install but the peanut fitting is leaking, so I'm buying a new o-ring for that today. Pretty sure it's a stock radiator and the cooling system never goes above 210 with A/C in traffic, so that makes me happy. Has a KB 2.2 Gen 1, no need to change that.....yet. Dyno'd just shy of 600 and it's a REALLY conservative tune, so I'll get a new tune this fall. The only part of the car that really upsets me is how damaged the pinch welds are. To the point that I'm amazed the rocker panel molding push pins are able to stay in the pinch weld holes. So as soon as I finish my man cave, the car will go up on a lift and I'll spend a week trying to straighten that up. Previous owner(s) def put money into it and used to autocross it, so lots of work has been done, I just need to freshen up some of it. I have no idea how recently the Griggs setup has been serviced, so I'm thinking I may need to pull the Koni's and service those and check the bushings, but it handles like a Miata (though the NVH is a little more, I don't mind). Wish I had your level of OCD (my wife does and my father did) but for some reason, I fall short on patience :( Gonna try not to do that with this car. I've attached an article that had the last mustang I owned.
 

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cj428mach

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Where did you get your 1" intercooler to reservoir tank hose? Is it a 45 degree hose?

I spoke to j2fab about just running the under hood tank and he didn't think it would work. Said i need more fluid capacity. I was thinking of adding another tank in the drivers fender well to get more capacity.
 

SVT_Troy

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Where did you get your 1" intercooler to reservoir tank hose? Is it a 45 degree hose?

I spoke to j2fab about just running the under hood tank and he didn't think it would work. Said i need more fluid capacity. I was thinking of adding another tank in the drivers fender well to get more capacity.


I got the 45 & 90° hose from pegasus racing. The 60° i actually picked up form a UK based company here: Coolant Hoses | Radiator Hoses | Turbo Hoses
 

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