Bennett123
New Member
A new toilet can cost anywhere from $60 to $250, but the materials for setup shouldn't exceed $25. It is important that you be aware of the distance from the finished wall to the middle of the drain in the floor under the toilet. Tips on installing a two-piece one-piece or low-flush toilet are provided.
Nearly anyone can install a bathroom. Okay, it is not the most glamorous or pleasurable job. But if you don't run in the pipe in the floor under the toilet or even a flow, you can perform the job in a couple of hours, without a lot of experience or advanced plumbing skills Read more Medium.com.
You probably already possess most. Here is what to have available: * Tape, step adjustable wrench * 7/16- and 1/2-in. Box-end or open-end wrenches * mini-hacksaw * entering oil * putty knife wax ring with elongated collar * plumber's putty * flexible water-supply tubing * caulking gun * silicone tub/tile caulk * sponge rags and bucket * and a toilet, needless to say.
You shouldn't have to invest more than $ 15 to $ 25 for the other materials, although the most expensive thing within this project is the toilet, which may cost as little as $ 60 or over $ 250. And you'll probably be able to find everything in hardware shop that is full size or your regional home center.
We're not going to discuss types of bathrooms. The steps shown apply to any bathroom--two-piece, one-piece or lowflush--as long as the floor dimensions correspond to those discussed in the next part, "Sizing the New Toilet." To find out more about the differences in toilets, visit "What Makes a ToiletWork" (Jan. '91, p. 14).
SIZING THE TOILET
All toilets aren't created equal--they are in various sizes. Before you can purchase a new one, you want to be aware of the distance to the center of the drain that is in the floor, under the toilet from the wall. This distance is often 12 in.; but some bathrooms have their drain outlet centered 10 or even 14 in. From the wall. The bathrooms sold at home centers are 12 in. Other sizes might want to be special-ordered.
One measurement will tell you exactly what size. Measure from the wall into the center of the spool cap onto the bowl's base (Photo 1), or into the ground bolt itself, which is beneath the cap. The ground bolts are aligned with the middle of the drain in the floor.Website:http://toiletszones.com
Toilets, like the one we are replacing, frequently have four bolts --two on each side. Newer styles have just one bolt per side. If your toilet has two bolts per side, then the distance is measured from the wall to the first bolt in the wall (the back bolt).
First, shut off the water into the restroom by shutting the water supply shut-off valve. This valve is generally on the wall, but is sometimes onto the tank's side close to the floor. If there's no shut-off valve at the restroom, you are going to need to shut off the water where it enters the home. This valve is usually located close to the water meter.
Flush the toilet when the water is shut off and hold the handle down until the majority of the water is drained out of tank and the toilet bowl. Sponge out any residual water to prevent a watery mess when you eliminate the old toilet.
Disconnect the water supply tube in the shut-off valve using an adjustable wrench (Photo 1). You'll probably be operating in a confined area, so be patient. You could find yourself making plumbing repairs, like replacing the shut-off valve if you are not.
The bathroom is secured to the ground by the bolts on all sides of the bowl. These bolts are stored in place in slots on the closet flange--the drain piece that goes. Fig. A shows the location of this closet flange and floor bolts.
To remove the bathroom, you have to remove the nuts that are on the bolts (Photo 2). The flooring bolts (the ones nearest the wall) are secured in the closet flange slots. Front bolts, if you've got any, will be closet screws machine threads on one end for the nut and wood-screw threads on the other end. The end is screwed right into the wood subfloor.
Eliminate the closet screws. They won't be used by you .
You might realize that even the nuts will not budge. If it occurs, cut the nut and bolt off using a mini-hacksaw (Photo 3). You will need to obtain a new set, however they cost only a few bucks.
Now lift the old toilet from the closet flange (Photo 4). Grab the bathroom in the rear of the bowl, just in front of the tank. This area provides when lifted, a grip and the bathroom will be well balanced. Lift too. Bend at the knees to avoid straining your back. Toilets are hefty (80 to 85 lbs.) .
The old bathroom probably has a wax ring or plumber's putty between it and the closet flange to maintain the bathroom from leaking. When you eliminate the old toilet, some of the wax ring or putty will stay on the flange. Use a putty knife to remove it (Photo 5).
Make sure you stuff a rag in the hole at the closet flange to prevent sewer gas and block the wax or gear from falling into the drain. But take care to not push the rag into the drain too much--it could fall in the drain and plug in it.
Assess the floor area around the closet flange for signs of leakage once you've eliminated the bathroom. If the floor is soaked or badly stained, the wood subfloor could be rotted. If you suspect a Issue, see "Repairing Rotted Floors" (July/Aug. ' 91, p. 60).
Before you place the new toilet bowl on your closet flange, you need to install a new wax ring. The ideal sort of wax ring is just one with an extended collar, because it is designed to fit in the closet flange opening and direct the flushed water into the closet flange and drain.
Place the wax ring over the "horn"--the Up round the opening--around the base of the new bathroom(Photo 6). Push down slightly, just enough to chair the ring onto the toilet.
Turn the bowl upright and place it over the floor bolts and on the closet flange. Pack some plumber's putty around the floor bolts to keep them erect. (Do not forget to remove the rag from the closet flange opening. !) Place one hand at the rear of the bowl and then a single hand in the bowl under the rim, as shown in Photo 7. Holding the bowl this manner provides you good balance and lets you see the holes for the flooring bolts. But be cautious: If you've got a bad back, this action might hurt it, so get a helper-Read more information.
Once the bowl in position above the ground bolts, push and rock back and onto the entire top edge of the bowl to seat the bowl and wax ring onto the closet flange. If necessary, sit on the bowl to get enough pressure to find the bowl to rest firmly on the ground. Don't try to pull on the bowl down by tightening the floor bolts to touch the floor. The base'll crack and ruin the toilet.
To secure the bowl install floor bolt nuts and the washers and hand-tighten. Now, tighten the nuts with a wrench until they're snug. Alternate tightening from side to side to maintain a light pressure on every side of the bowl. If you don't, you are going to crack the bowl and you'll have to buy a different bathroom.
The new tank usually comes with all the inner components (fill valve, flush valve, flapper ball, etc.) installed. About the only thing you need to do is secure the tank into the bowl.
The tank bolts, washers and nuts do precisely what you expect: The bolts secure the tank to the bowl, while the washers (two plastic along with 2 rubber) and nuts seal the holes to the bolts in the bottom of the tank (Photo 8).
Put the tank into position on the bowl (Photo 9). Make sure the spud washer fits into the opening on the rear of the top of the bowl and the tank bolts are beside the area, in the corresponding holes. Fig. B indicates tank bolts and the washer in place.
The tank is then secured by installing two plastic nuts (provided) from the underside of the tank bolts. Tighten each side not tighter, and than hand-tight, to avoid cracking the tank. Check to make sure flat on the bowl sits.
Connect the water supply tube that is new into the shut-off valve and the bathroom. We recommend having a flexible supply tube since it's easy to bend and you likely won't need to cut it to fit (Photo 10). Supply tubes are available in a variety of lengths.
Nearly anyone can install a bathroom. Okay, it is not the most glamorous or pleasurable job. But if you don't run in the pipe in the floor under the toilet or even a flow, you can perform the job in a couple of hours, without a lot of experience or advanced plumbing skills Read more Medium.com.
You probably already possess most. Here is what to have available: * Tape, step adjustable wrench * 7/16- and 1/2-in. Box-end or open-end wrenches * mini-hacksaw * entering oil * putty knife wax ring with elongated collar * plumber's putty * flexible water-supply tubing * caulking gun * silicone tub/tile caulk * sponge rags and bucket * and a toilet, needless to say.
You shouldn't have to invest more than $ 15 to $ 25 for the other materials, although the most expensive thing within this project is the toilet, which may cost as little as $ 60 or over $ 250. And you'll probably be able to find everything in hardware shop that is full size or your regional home center.
We're not going to discuss types of bathrooms. The steps shown apply to any bathroom--two-piece, one-piece or lowflush--as long as the floor dimensions correspond to those discussed in the next part, "Sizing the New Toilet." To find out more about the differences in toilets, visit "What Makes a ToiletWork" (Jan. '91, p. 14).
SIZING THE TOILET
All toilets aren't created equal--they are in various sizes. Before you can purchase a new one, you want to be aware of the distance to the center of the drain that is in the floor, under the toilet from the wall. This distance is often 12 in.; but some bathrooms have their drain outlet centered 10 or even 14 in. From the wall. The bathrooms sold at home centers are 12 in. Other sizes might want to be special-ordered.
One measurement will tell you exactly what size. Measure from the wall into the center of the spool cap onto the bowl's base (Photo 1), or into the ground bolt itself, which is beneath the cap. The ground bolts are aligned with the middle of the drain in the floor.Website:http://toiletszones.com
Toilets, like the one we are replacing, frequently have four bolts --two on each side. Newer styles have just one bolt per side. If your toilet has two bolts per side, then the distance is measured from the wall to the first bolt in the wall (the back bolt).
First, shut off the water into the restroom by shutting the water supply shut-off valve. This valve is generally on the wall, but is sometimes onto the tank's side close to the floor. If there's no shut-off valve at the restroom, you are going to need to shut off the water where it enters the home. This valve is usually located close to the water meter.
Flush the toilet when the water is shut off and hold the handle down until the majority of the water is drained out of tank and the toilet bowl. Sponge out any residual water to prevent a watery mess when you eliminate the old toilet.
Disconnect the water supply tube in the shut-off valve using an adjustable wrench (Photo 1). You'll probably be operating in a confined area, so be patient. You could find yourself making plumbing repairs, like replacing the shut-off valve if you are not.
The bathroom is secured to the ground by the bolts on all sides of the bowl. These bolts are stored in place in slots on the closet flange--the drain piece that goes. Fig. A shows the location of this closet flange and floor bolts.
To remove the bathroom, you have to remove the nuts that are on the bolts (Photo 2). The flooring bolts (the ones nearest the wall) are secured in the closet flange slots. Front bolts, if you've got any, will be closet screws machine threads on one end for the nut and wood-screw threads on the other end. The end is screwed right into the wood subfloor.
Eliminate the closet screws. They won't be used by you .
You might realize that even the nuts will not budge. If it occurs, cut the nut and bolt off using a mini-hacksaw (Photo 3). You will need to obtain a new set, however they cost only a few bucks.
Now lift the old toilet from the closet flange (Photo 4). Grab the bathroom in the rear of the bowl, just in front of the tank. This area provides when lifted, a grip and the bathroom will be well balanced. Lift too. Bend at the knees to avoid straining your back. Toilets are hefty (80 to 85 lbs.) .
The old bathroom probably has a wax ring or plumber's putty between it and the closet flange to maintain the bathroom from leaking. When you eliminate the old toilet, some of the wax ring or putty will stay on the flange. Use a putty knife to remove it (Photo 5).
Make sure you stuff a rag in the hole at the closet flange to prevent sewer gas and block the wax or gear from falling into the drain. But take care to not push the rag into the drain too much--it could fall in the drain and plug in it.
Assess the floor area around the closet flange for signs of leakage once you've eliminated the bathroom. If the floor is soaked or badly stained, the wood subfloor could be rotted. If you suspect a Issue, see "Repairing Rotted Floors" (July/Aug. ' 91, p. 60).
Before you place the new toilet bowl on your closet flange, you need to install a new wax ring. The ideal sort of wax ring is just one with an extended collar, because it is designed to fit in the closet flange opening and direct the flushed water into the closet flange and drain.
Place the wax ring over the "horn"--the Up round the opening--around the base of the new bathroom(Photo 6). Push down slightly, just enough to chair the ring onto the toilet.
Turn the bowl upright and place it over the floor bolts and on the closet flange. Pack some plumber's putty around the floor bolts to keep them erect. (Do not forget to remove the rag from the closet flange opening. !) Place one hand at the rear of the bowl and then a single hand in the bowl under the rim, as shown in Photo 7. Holding the bowl this manner provides you good balance and lets you see the holes for the flooring bolts. But be cautious: If you've got a bad back, this action might hurt it, so get a helper-Read more information.
Once the bowl in position above the ground bolts, push and rock back and onto the entire top edge of the bowl to seat the bowl and wax ring onto the closet flange. If necessary, sit on the bowl to get enough pressure to find the bowl to rest firmly on the ground. Don't try to pull on the bowl down by tightening the floor bolts to touch the floor. The base'll crack and ruin the toilet.
To secure the bowl install floor bolt nuts and the washers and hand-tighten. Now, tighten the nuts with a wrench until they're snug. Alternate tightening from side to side to maintain a light pressure on every side of the bowl. If you don't, you are going to crack the bowl and you'll have to buy a different bathroom.
The new tank usually comes with all the inner components (fill valve, flush valve, flapper ball, etc.) installed. About the only thing you need to do is secure the tank into the bowl.
The tank bolts, washers and nuts do precisely what you expect: The bolts secure the tank to the bowl, while the washers (two plastic along with 2 rubber) and nuts seal the holes to the bolts in the bottom of the tank (Photo 8).
Put the tank into position on the bowl (Photo 9). Make sure the spud washer fits into the opening on the rear of the top of the bowl and the tank bolts are beside the area, in the corresponding holes. Fig. B indicates tank bolts and the washer in place.
The tank is then secured by installing two plastic nuts (provided) from the underside of the tank bolts. Tighten each side not tighter, and than hand-tight, to avoid cracking the tank. Check to make sure flat on the bowl sits.
Connect the water supply tube that is new into the shut-off valve and the bathroom. We recommend having a flexible supply tube since it's easy to bend and you likely won't need to cut it to fit (Photo 10). Supply tubes are available in a variety of lengths.
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