Just joined the Revan racing heat exchanger family yesterday, finally!

Islandcat

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Anyone who read my last thread knows I was having trouble with my car. After changing PCV valve, o2 sensors, and revising my tune, I seem to have gotten it all squared away. The car runs really strong now, and I am pretty happy. Only thing is I had to do a lot of datalogging trying to get my car right. Good lord the IAT2 are freaking high this time of year, lol. On a normal summer day, I couldn't get the temp below 142, and a full throttle pull in third gear resulted in 157. I had seen enough and knew I needed to do something with my cooling.

I was torn between the killer chiller and a heat exchanger. I called van to see what kind of price he could get me on his heat exchanger. Nobody answered, so I thought he was closed for the day. About 15 minutes later, he called me back. After a lil back and forth, he had shook me down for a heat exchanger, larger reservoir , and thermostat lol. I am glad he called back cause I would probably still be debating this 3 weeks from now.

Anyway, he gave me a svtp discount and sent me on my way. I am definitely pumped up now and cant wait to receive it and put it on. Thanks van!
 

99cobraUgotbit

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Really happy with mine. Also think about a stencil layout for the front on the fins.
Some do SVT. I did the GT500 stencil
zMnU2zD.jpg


Pic won't upload
 
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barspen

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Much needed upgrade and investment on these cars. Plus, install is really not that hard with a few hand tools and some patience. Enjoy the cooler temps :)
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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I sometimes make the case that the H/E should be the first mod, then the pulley. I drive around now, with my C+R, all summer and the car never stops pulling. Prior to this upgrade, you had about 15mins on the first cold start, to enjoy all that power. Now, it just keeps pullllllllling and leaving black stripes everywhere, even in 95F heat with the A/C on.
 

Islandcat

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I sometimes make the case that the H/E should be the first mod, then the pulley. I drive around now, with my C+R, all summer and the car never stops pulling. Prior to this upgrade, you had about 15mins on the first cold start, to enjoy all that power. Now, it just keeps pullllllllling and leaving black stripes everywhere, even in 95F heat with the A/C on.

This is what I like to hear and what I am battling. Southeast Louisiana is pretty brutal during summertime and my logs were showing it in regards to iat2 temps. Never realized how bad it was until now.
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Yeah, and when its cooler out, the power is even better. I can honestly say, in the heat of summer, the car drives so much better than stock, with no heat soak. I'm also running a 170F stat too.
 

limitedex

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I have installed two of Vans HE on my cars. World of difference. Easy as cake too. Just takes me about four hours still taking my time.

"Goose" on fordgt500.com did a great write up. Look it up.

Yes, it is the best thing I have done for my cars.
 

Islandcat

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Well got it all installed and got the car back Wednesday. Only problem is I am in southeast Louisiana, so it was raining on and off from Wednesday to Saturday. ( thank god I am not in areas that are flooding. It is really terrible).

Anyway, today was first sunny day and I went do a lil datalogging. Ambient temp was 89 degrees, and my iat2 stayed from 110-118 on a 50 minute ride. Freaking incredible. With my old stock setup I would average 122-129 in 80 degree weather. No doubt a day like today it would have been 135 plus. And the few times I got on it, I was amazed how quickly it came back down after I got off gas. This mod might be second best thing I have done to car after tvs lol. Very happy with it.
 
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Kenneth

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Sounds similar to mine.

Only time mine really goes up above 120 is in stop and go traffic in the city, but as soon as you start moving it drops quick.
 

Black Cobra '99

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As long as you are moving you should be seeing 30-35 degrees above ambient (with some exceptions in some cases). Which is what I've seen from VMP's unit.
I personally think the only difference between the different units out there is how well they maintain IAT2 in that range, which is yet to be compared.
 

Shelby_SVT_2012

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Is there a way you can repair the fins or do you need to replace the whole heat exchanger? Hit a bird on the highway :/
 

Islandcat

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Is there a way you can repair the fins or do you need to replace the whole heat exchanger? Hit a bird on the highway :/

You can try a radiator/fin comb. I have never used one and not sure if they work too good, but it's cheap and worth a try.

How exactly do you see what your temp is stock then after the upgraded h/e?

I datalogged it using my sct 3 hooked into a laptop that was running live link software.
 

IronTerp

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Only time mine really goes up above 120 is in stop and go traffic in the city, but as soon as you start moving it drops quick.

As long as you are moving you should be seeing 30-35 degrees above ambient (with some exceptions in some cases). Which is what I've seen from VMP's unit.
I personally think the only difference between the different units out there is how well they maintain IAT2 in that range, which is yet to be compared.

Maybe I shouldn't be surprised, but felt the purpose of the HE with fans was to keep IAT2's low even when the car was stopped or moving slowly, due to the fans continuing to pull air through the heat exchanger. How much does car speed affect IAT's with the fans versus without the fans?
 

Islandcat

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Maybe I shouldn't be surprised, but felt the purpose of the HE with fans was to keep IAT2's low even when the car was stopped or moving slowly, due to the fans continuing to pull air through the heat exchanger. How much does car speed affect IAT's with the fans versus without the fans?

It was explained to me that when sitting in traffic idling, Your throttle body is essential closed and not letting much air in. so your iat2 creeps up. As soon as you hit gas to accelerate, a dose of air comes in and your IAT2 immediately starts dropping to where it was before you stopped. I actually played with it when I was datalogging. I would sit and idle, watch the temp creep up, then I would rev it up a lil and the temp would start going back down. Those fans are still cooling the coolant the whole time while idling, that is why the temp drops as fast as it does.
 

SCGallo2

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As long as you are moving you should be seeing 30-35 degrees above ambient (with some exceptions in some cases).

It was explained to me that when sitting in traffic idling, Your throttle body is essential closed and not letting much air in. so your iat2 creeps up. As soon as you hit gas to accelerate, a dose of air comes in and your IAT2 immediately starts dropping to where it was before you stopped. I actually played with it when I was datalogging. I would sit and idle, watch the temp creep up, then I would rev it up a lil and the temp would start going back down. Those fans are still cooling the coolant the whole time while idling, that is why the temp drops as fast as it does.

^^^ +1, I am seeing the same results with my C&R HE in hot weather.
 

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