Kids Power Wheel electric question...

[BLOWN PONY]

So Bubs left his Jeep out in the rain and now it wont go in reverse.
I'm pretty limited when it comes to electronics so its not surprising I'm stumped.
I've replaced the switch and still the same issue. Forward works, reverse is dead.

Two of the wires from the switch go to this thing...

JIARUIXIN JR1958RX-2S Kids Powered Ride on car 2.4G Bluetooth Remote Control and Receiver Kit Controller Control Box Accessories for Children Electric Ride On Car Replacement Parts
(Google it. for some reason the link isn't working)


The 3rd wire goes to what appears to be the steering actuator (if in remote controlled mode.)

None of that makes sense (to me), because the JR1958RX-2S seems to be for the remote control but the reverse wont work when manually driving it as well.

Any ideas?

 

[01yellercobra]

I don't see any pics of the back. Is it something you can open up? I'm going to guess there's water inside and it either shorted out or just needs to be opened up and dried out.

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Its all molded plastic so I can't get it apart without breaking it.
The Jeep actually got wet last fall and reverse stopped working. Just now getting around to fixing it with the weather getting nice. Its been in the dry since then.
I was more wondering if that "box" could really be the issue because it looks like its designed to just run the remote controlled function of the Jeep.

 

[JPKII]

Which switch did you replace? The Forward and backward switch?

 

[AustinSN]

If it's not working in RC mode or manual, the switch doesn't make sense. I'm betting on the ECU thingy.

 

[JPKII]

Assuming you replaced F/B switch...

The accelerator pedal supplies power (yellow wire) to the F/B switch.

The accelerator pedal is a potentiometer. So as you press the pedal down, it gives a, presumably, larger voltage reference to the F/B switch which then sends that signal to the speed controller. The F/B switch simply switches the polarity of the signal from the pedal to the speed controller. So the pedal varies output 0 VDC to 5 VDC (probably) on the yellow wire. The F/B switch makes that 0 VDC to "+"5VDC or 0 VDC to "-"5 VDC based on direction selected.

I'd measure at the light blue and dark blue wires, from F/B switch, with a voltmeter set to DC and low range (like 20 volts). Put one probe on black wire (common) going to pedal and other probe on each blue wire. See if you can see this signal varying from + to - on each blue wire as you toggle switch and press on pedal. You're gonna need a second set of hands. You'll have to work out the logic or sequence as you're testing.

If you see the voltage polarity go from + to -, or vice versa, while toggling the F/B switch, replace the speed control. It's likely the power devices in the speed controller, for the reverse direction, are shot.

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Which switch did you replace? The Forward and backward switch?

View attachment 1787550

Yep, forward and backward switch.

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Assuming you replaced F/B switch...

The accelerator pedal supplies power (yellow wire) to the F/B switch.

The accelerator pedal is a potentiometer. So as you press the pedal down, it gives a, presumably, larger voltage reference to the F/B switch which then sends that signal to the speed controller. The F/B switch simply switches the polarity of the signal from the pedal to the speed controller. So the pedal varies output 0 VDC to 5 VDC (probably) on the yellow wire. The F/B switch makes that 0 VDC to "+"5VDC or 0 VDC to "-"5 VDC based on direction selected.

I'd measure at the light blue and dark blue wires, from F/B switch, with a voltmeter set to DC and low range (like 20 volts). Put one probe on black wire (common) going to pedal and other probe on each blue wire. See if you can see this signal varying from + to - on each blue wire as you toggle switch and press on pedal. You're gonna need a second set of hands. You'll have to work out the logic or sequence as you're testing.

If you see the voltage polarity go from + to -, or vice versa, while toggling the F/B switch, replace the speed control. It's likely the power devices in the speed controller, for the reverse direction, are shot.

This is why I've been on this site as long as I have.
Thanks man. I'll try it out this evening!

 

[JPKII]

This is why I've been on this site as long as I have.
Thanks man. I'll try it out this evening!

You are welcome.

Me too. The diversity on this site is incredible. I’m always amazed and the topics and folks commenting on those topics. A great group of people.

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Assuming you replaced F/B switch...

The accelerator pedal supplies power (yellow wire) to the F/B switch.

The accelerator pedal is a potentiometer. So as you press the pedal down, it gives a, presumably, larger voltage reference to the F/B switch which then sends that signal to the speed controller. The F/B switch simply switches the polarity of the signal from the pedal to the speed controller. So the pedal varies output 0 VDC to 5 VDC (probably) on the yellow wire. The F/B switch makes that 0 VDC to "+"5VDC or 0 VDC to "-"5 VDC based on direction selected.

I'd measure at the light blue and dark blue wires, from F/B switch, with a voltmeter set to DC and low range (like 20 volts). Put one probe on black wire (common) going to pedal and other probe on each blue wire. See if you can see this signal varying from + to - on each blue wire as you toggle switch and press on pedal. You're gonna need a second set of hands. You'll have to work out the logic or sequence as you're testing.

If you see the voltage polarity go from + to -, or vice versa, while toggling the F/B switch, replace the speed control. It's likely the power devices in the speed controller, for the reverse direction, are shot.

Ok, So I did what you said and everything made sense but nothing changed.
I ended up trying my replacement switch on every switch on the truck and still the same issue. The replacement switch works as a replacement for everything but it still wont go in reverse.
When you say "It's likely the power devices in the speed controller, for the reverse direction, are shot." what do you mean?
I'm not sure what you mean by "power devices". Is that in the computer looking thing?

 

[JPKII]

Ok, So I did what you said and everything made sense but nothing changed.
I ended up trying my replacement switch on every switch on the truck and still the same issue. The replacement switch works as a replacement for everything but it still wont go in reverse.
When you say "It's likely the power devices in the speed controller, for the reverse direction, are shot." what do you mean?
I'm not sure what you mean by "power devices". Is that in the computer looking thing?

Yeah, the controller with all the wires connected to it.

After your description it sounds like it may be a bad power supply within that device.

I think this is the one. On Amazon:

JIARUIXIN JR1958RX-2S Kids Powered Ride on car 2.4G Bluetooth Remote Control and Receiver Kit Controller Control Box Accessories for Children Electric Ride On Car Replacement Parts https://a.co/d/2kDlG1y

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Whelp. I give up. Replaced the controller box and still the same issue.
Looks like its going to the community yard sale at the end of the month.
Thanks for the help!

 

[JPKII]

Dang it. How about the wires? Are all the pins secure? Any corroded?

 

[BLOWN PONY]

Dang it. How about the wires? Are all the pins secure? Any corroded?

I have checked and rechecked every dang connection on that stupid thing. Even bought an extra switch that I traded in and out for every switch and still nothing.

 

[Logan2003Cobra]

If the drawing is correct these are the only possibilities:
- forward/backward switch (or connections)
- wire(s) from the f/b switch to controller (or connections)
- controller
- wires from controller to motor(s) (or connections)
- motor(s) or connections
- there might also be additional fuse(s) for the motor(s) that aren’t shown in the drawing

Being that it was left out in the rain it’s either a corrosion issue (connections), or a short (controller, fuse, or motor(s))

The drawing shows (2) motors (in addition to the steering motor); is one for forward and the other for reverse? If so, swap them (or the wiring) to see if the problem moves. You could also potentially do this from the switch throughout the entire circuit(s) to see if the problem moves; good trick if you don’t have a meter.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Logan2003Cobra]

You could also have a bent/broken wire at a pinch point where the insulation is still intact, but that would be a helluva bad coincidence.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[BCICAN]

There are for forums for battery operated kid cars where you may find even more ideas. I had wanted to upgrade my daughters when she was younger but she didn’t care much about going faster lol
Maybe you can find someone who has repaired the same problem with this link good luck

Experiment Power Boost Battery Operated Vehicles

Experiment Power Boost Battery Operated Vehicles: Learn how to power boost your battery operated jeep, car, motorcycle, 4 wheeler. or any other battery powered kids vehicle. This Instructable will show how to convert your 12 volt operated kid vehicle to 24 volts. With a fun experiment, we will also…

www.instructables.com

 

[BLOWN PONY]

I ended up figuring it out last night.
When I was testing each switch I must have gotten the wires mixed up on the reverse switch (of course it would be that one) I had the bottom and middle wires switched.
After I figured that out and got it working I broke apart the old control box and sure enough, like JPKII guessed, It had a very corroded and broken thingambob in there.

Thanks for the heads up on the Forum though! Just purchased a new 24v motor for his tractor. I'm sure I'll need help there too. LOL