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LEVEL 5 IRS or THE RED PILL

Discussion in 'Suspension Modifications' started by postban, Nov 4, 2005.

  1. postban

    postban ...rollin on 20's Established Member

    Messages:
    6,767
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2002
    Location:
    SE Mich
    Welcome to the RED PILL, my name is Dave, 4+ year SVTP veteran poster and 03 Cobra owner/modifier. I have compiled this post through spending my own money, buying, trying, breaking these components. My own experience, my opinions, my conclusions.

    I have owned 2 03 Cobras, the first a live axle, ported Eaton, Pullied, Bassani, PHP intake Convertible. The second is the car I have now, 670sae RWHP, T76 Hellion Turbo, Cammed, ported heads, built shortblock, custom return fuel, Viper trans and Level 5 IRS coupe. Now, on to the RED PILL.

    The only cure for wheelhop is the system approach. The stock car has many flaws in the rear suspension system. Soft rubber bushings, flexible body structure, unsupported IRS mounts, soft springs in the vert, slippery tires, weak halfshafts and a fragile diff cover.

    The basic premise is firm up the points of contact for each of the major components.

    Below is a list of relationships so you understand where hop comes from;

    *Differential case is mounted with soft bushings, allows it to rotate side to side and front to back, MM bushings cure this.

    *IRS Cradle is mounted with flexible bushings, allows it to move in relation to cars chassis mounting points, MM polyurethane bushings cure this.

    *Upper and lower countrol arms are mounted with flexible bushings, this allows the wheel to move forward/back when you only really want it to move up/down, MM delrin bushings, aluminum sleeves cure this.

    *Toe link bars are very small diameter and flexible, weakest point of support for the wheel, allows wheel to turn in/out and move forward/back, using PHP toe link bars cures this.

    *Rear IRS subframe mounts are cantilevered 3+" from the rear subframe, allows for up/down flex in the IRS cradle mounting point, using Billetflow IRS Mount brackets with backer plates cures this.

    *Convertible springs are too low of a rate to work with us to reduce hop, using coupe rate springs helps.

    All these parts moving and flexing and rotating...... it has no choice but to hop.

    Luckily now, after several years of suffering, a replacment or improvement exists for everyone of those components.

    Follow this proven mod path to a hard hooking but smooth riding/handling Cobra IRS.

    The below mods are carefully arranged to help you out.

    You should start at #1 and go straight to #6 for any car from stock up to 500rwhp.

    All those mods compliment each other and will dramatically reduce wheelhop on all surfaces. Do not ask me which of the first 6 you can skip, the answer is NONE.

    FOR WHEELHOP
    Listed in order of necessity/priority.
    Stock to CPIE wheelhop mods

    1)Billetflow Diff Cover Brace $160
    2)MM Diff bushings $50 or $250
    3)MMFLSFC's installed $250-300 installed
    4)MM IRS Bushings $50 with 14mm bolts/nuts $15
    5)Billetflow IRS Mount Brackets $50
    6)Used coupe springs $50 (est) (only for verts)
    7)Nitto DR $375-$425 installed


    500rwhp and up
    8)PHP toe link bars $410
    9)Maximum Motorsports UCA/LCA Bushings $550
    10)Level 5 shafts $1500



    11)Strange ADJ Shocks $59ea from HBH Billetflow mount bushings $50
    Any shocks other than stock coupe ones or Cobra R Bilsteins are to be used with this caution, It gives you a rougher ride on the settings which actually reduce hop, basically destroys the feel of IRS. And you get to crawl under there and adjust the valve between hop and comfort. Also please realize the possibility of the shocks actually breaking the eyelets. EDIT 8-23-06 Mine actually just broke. This is a seriously dubious mod. My advice is don't do it.

    ==========================================
    ==========================================
    1)Billetflow Rear Diff cover brace.
    Numerous stock Cobras have grenaded the flimsy diff cover. The damage only gets worse as you mod these cars. Get a Billetflow Diff brace ASAP on any IRS Cobra and you will thank me later. They are guaranteed to never break or full refund. This is not a bullsh*t advertisement, this is a critical reinforcing mod to keep your diff/driveshaft/trans safe from breakage. BF IRS BRACELINK HERE

    2)Firmer Differential Bushings like the ones offered by Maximum Motorsports. They sell a Urethane kit for $50 and a fancy adjustable Aluminum set for $250. There have been other companies that offer low quality urethane bushings that melt and deform in this location (diff gets pretty warm) but I have not seen a report of these MM Urethane ones yet. They may be able to take the heat, I cannot say for sure so no endorsement for their urethane ones yet. Their aluminum ones will work fine. Also any other source for aluminum bushings for here could be used as well. One last thing to consider is the noise of the diff (gear whine) will be transferred more and be audible in the interior depending on how loud your car is. I use aluminum here and have a loud exhaust and can still hear the gears. The front two are the ones susceptible to heat, the rear bushings can be delrin, UMHW, nylatron, urethane..... just reuse the aluminum sleeve from the stock bushing or something like it and it will work fine.
    MM Differential Bushings LINK HERE

    3)Quality Subframe connectors like MM Full lengths. Have them properly welded in by an experienced installer on a drive on lift. The drive on lift is absolutely critical, if the weight is not on the wheels you are unknowingly permanently warping and binding your chassis. Other brands like Global West, Laurel Mountain Mustangs and UMI Performance have shown good results. I currently have HANS Force subframes and do not like them, way too much flex, pass on them.

    4)IRS Subframe bushings
    from Maximum Motorsports. Others sell them but I have used three sets of these now (3 different cars) with excellent results. Be CERTAIN to order the 14mm bolts and nuts when you buy your bushings. MM Sells only the OEM strength ones so no need to worry.MM IRS Bushings LINK HERE

    5)Billetflow IRS Mount Brackets,
    3-hole design with backing plates, available now from Billetflow. Sometimes called Mathis Brackets these are an important part of the system. The outer portion of the rear IRS mount bracket is cantilevered out away from any support and free to flex under load. William Mathis originally developed them. I was making a set of my own and cut out a simple cardboard template. While marking the holes to drill I tapped through the template using a hammer and phillips screwdriver. A very mild tap resulted in me piercing the inner wheelhouse metal. Further research showed this metal to be less than 1mm thick and very weak. I did not trust such thin metal to withstand the stress so I then developed a backing plate to make it a robust modification. Billetflow IRS Mount bracketsLINK HERE

    6)Coupe rate springs or heavier (especially in verts). Coupe rear springs are 600 lb/in, verts are 470lb/in. 650lb/in Cobra R springs have been reported as giving excellent results. I experimented with cutting stock springs and found 1/2 coil cut circumferentially will approximate most commonly available lowering springs. Drop will be 1"-1.25" with 1/2 coil cut. 1/2 coil = one "C" shape.

    7)Drag Radial Tires M/T DR or BFG DR. Nitto DR are an intermediate traction DR, no where near the traction from an M/T or BFG. Nittos will last 3-4x longer and not kill you in rain though. M/T and BFG are dry only tires, you will not be able to drive your car at all in rain/snow with either. Just know how dangerous DR can be in wet conditions, extreme caution is what I urge before depending on DR an a daily driver, very bad idea. One of the benefits of the mods above this point is it reduces the need for sticky tires to fight hop. You can skip tires if you have done all the above mods, the only negative is you will have more wheel spin.

    8)Pauls High Performance Toe Link bars
    The stock Toe Link Bar is the weakest link in the support of the spindle from forward/reverse axis vibration. Our stock ones are very thin. Compared to the other two points of support for the rear spindle (aluminum LCA and steel UCA) these are very flexible, like noodles! PHP did a test where they actually mounted a remote camera under the car and observed the TL bending 1" during a wheelhop incident. I also have seen a friends set of damaged TL bars warped 1.5". Common sense that these bars help with hop because they keep the spindle from unloading by twisting in the Z rotational axis. PHP Toe Link BarsLINK HERE

    9)Maximum Motorsports Control Arm Bushings.
    Get the rubber out of the IRS, all of it. The factory IRS bushings are all of seemingly different durometer setting up an unpredictable harmonic nightmare unless you replace it with proper bushings. Best source for all the bushings UCA, LCA, Front and rear Diff is Maximum MotorsportsLINK HERE

    10)DSS Level 5 halfshafts
    Yep, they cost $1500 bucks. Nope, there is is currently no alternative. The only setup proven to handle the power of a turbo, twinscrew or heavily sprayed Eaton are these Level 5's I do not suggest Level 2's as 3 that I know of have broken at the stock outer hubs Bearing stub. They are only good for a teeny bit more power than the stockers will hold. Instead of breaking the bars like the stocker they break at the bearing stub potentially allowing wheel separation! If you have the power you need the full Level 5's with the stronger bars and larger outer hub assemblies. DSS LEVEL 5 LINK HERE


    WARNING! To be used only in extreme cases due to rough ride, basically destroys the feel of IRS. Also please realize the possibility of the shocks actually breaking the eyelets. This is the last mod you want to make to the IRS. Do everything else first.

    11)Strange Adjustable Shocks and Billetflow custom Bushings. Billetflow has made these bushings available machined from Nylatron stock, a super strong synthetic bushing material. They are designed to be a compression fit in the Strange eyelet.
    CLUNK POTENTIAL!!! You will need to cannibalize parts of your stock Bilstein upper shock mount bushings to prevent a very annoying clunk condition. The Strange shock come with non-locating flat rubber mount washers. The hole left in the shock tower is way larger than the shock stem, under load it moves around and clunks against the shock tower. The old Bilstein plug/stem will not fit because the stem of the Strange shock is too short. It will fit if you follow the below modifications.
    B-1. Seperate the top nut/washer from the centering rubber plug/steel sleeve.
    B-2. Seperate the steel sleeve (pictured here) from the rubber plug on the top washer, shorten it to 5/8".
    B-3. Cut the center hole of the provided Strange rubber mount washer to 1" (big enough to allow the bilstein plug to mate with it. Put the shortened steel sleeve back in the rubber plug, make sure the modified Strange rubber mount washer will fit it and install.
    B-4. Sleeve and plug go on the bottom (through the shock tower, rubber mount washer goes on top with one metal washer Strange provided. That will prevent this specific clunk.

    ---------------------------------------------------
    Step by step IRS drop instructions:

    STEP 0 ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them.

    1)Get car up on 4 jackstands with the tires about 8-10" off the ground
    in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep
    the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft.

    2)Remove catback. Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal.

    3)Remove Driveshaft use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans.

    4)Remove tires 13/16" socket.

    5)Remove lower shock bolt. 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging.

    6)Remove ABS sensors from differential and pull/pry the fasteners off
    the IRS subframe. Get it completely off the IRS. They detach under the
    rear seats. You can pull up through the floor if you pull the big
    rubber grommet up.

    7)Remove Emergency brake cables. There are little c-clips mounting them
    to the calipers. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back
    together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you
    can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it. Make sure e-brake is
    off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you
    are working on.

    8)Remove brake calipers, two 15mm bolts. Put jack underneath bottom of
    spindle, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer
    where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. Remove upper
    spindle/UCA bolt 18mm. Pull back on top of spindle and slip the brake line
    out from under the UCA. Remove brake line bracket, 7mm bolt, which mounts to UCA. Replace the upper spindle bolt momentarily.

    9)Remove rear IRS subframe bolts, 18mm. Support IRS at the center of the main
    rear beam, directly rear of the pinion mount bracket (back of the
    diff). Take both bolts out once it is supported. Use some 4x4's or
    jackstands to support it a few inches under its normal position (you
    don't want to lower it to ground till the front is loose.) You just
    want to lower it enough so the springs will come out.

    10)With the rear supported on 4x4's or jackstands, put the jack under
    the front differential brace. Remove the front IRS subframe bolts.
    Lower the front down. It may stick, both the ones I have done needed a
    few smacks with a mallet. Once loose lower to the 4x4's then reposition
    the jack, lift a bit, remove 4x4's and lower to ground or pull out from
    under the car on top of the jack.

    11)Reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to get it up close again on
    4x4's, too much angle and the front bushings will not go in.
    *CRITICAL that you install the FRONT first because those bolts have to go through fixed holes. The REAR bushing nuts (which are movable) and can be positioned to line up with the hole in the bushing. After the fronts are installed (and still a bit loose) swing up the rear, look through the hole, line up the nut behind it and insert the bolt.
    Remember to swap out the stock 12mm front IRS bolts for the new 14mm bolts from
    MM.



    ---------------------------------------------------

    STEP by STEP Differential removal (w/o removing IRS)

    STEP 0 ziploc baggies and sharpie marker for every piece, label them as you remove them.

    1)Get car up on 4 jackstands with the tires about 8-10" off the ground
    in the rear and 4-6" in the front. A little angle is important to keep
    the trans from leaking when you pull out the driveshaft.

    2)Remove catback. Soap or spray lube on the hangers ease insertion/removal.

    3)Remove Driveshaft
    use 12pt 12mm socket. Pull it out of the trans.

    4)Remove tires 13/16" socket.

    5)Remove lower shock bolt. 18mm socket, disconnect bottom only, leave them hanging.

    6)Remove Emergency brake cables
    . There are little c-clips mounting them to the calipers. Make sure e-brake is
    off, of course. Also have a helper pull all the slack to the side you are working on. DO NOT remove the spring, way harder to get it back together. Just push on the little arm holding the cable end till you can work it out. I use vice grips to compress it.

    7)Disconnect ABS sensors from diff T40 torx or 1/2" wrench.

    8)Remove brake calipers, two 15mm bolts. Use some coat hanger wire or zip ties and hang them from the IRS mount bracket or anywhere out of the way.

    9)Disconnect Toe Link Bar from spindle. Pull out cotter pin. Remove castle nut 18mm. DO NOT HIT the taper bolt with a hammer, you will crush it because of the cotter pin hole. You can either use a tie rod puller (Autozone 25202 3.5") or the pry bar way. Spray taper bolt with penetrating oil, use long screwdriver or prybar and apply downward force on the cast end of the bar while striking the rearmost point on the spindle. Pry downward and hit it hard, it will come out.

    10)Remove halfshaft/spindle assy.
    Put jack underneath bottom of spindle where it meets LCA, just support it. Mark the position of the eccentric washer on the Camber Bolt where the UCA mounts to the top of the spindle. You will realign these marks during reassembly to maintain current suspension setting. Forgetting to do this will mess up your tires and ride feel.
    Remove upper spindle/UCA bolt 18mm.
    Lower jack all the way down allowing the springs to stretch out. Remove jack.
    Remove lower spindle/LCA bolt 18mm.
    Pull halfshaft out about 1/2"
    Use flat screwdriver/prybar between diff and inner hub to make sure it is coming out of the diff. Pull halfshaft all the way out.

    Repeat other side.

    11)Remove two 18mm bolts from diff cover-to-rear bushing. Leaves the rear diff bushing bracket hanging momentarily while we proceed to get the diff out.

    12)Remove Front Differential bushing bolts 15mm

    13) Remove nuts off front (only) LCA pivot bolts 24mm. Leave the bolts in place though. This allows the front differential support brace to be removed.

    14)Remove Diff. Support rear of diff with a jack, remove front support brace and diff will move forward and down and out of the car. It is about 70lbs so be careful. Do not tip it or you will spill "fish guts" the nastiest smelling oil there is.

    15)Remove Rear Differential bushing bracket bolt. 15mm and lots of extensions from the drivers side. Very tough to get to initially. Easier if you also remove drivers side toe link bar from its inner mounting point 13mm bolt on bottom, 15mm nut above.

    Good time to reseal the diff with Permatex Ultra Grey ($4 Autozone) or Ford TA31 Diesel Sealant ($15 dealer only)

    Reassemble in reverse order.

    ---------------------------------------------------
    IRS TORQUE SPECS
    Subframe-to-body bolts 76 lb-ft
    Subframe-to-rear bracket bolts 76 lb-ft
    Subframe rear bracket-to-body bolts 59 lb-ft
    Shock absorber-to-lower arm and bushing bolts 98 lb-ft
    Shock absorber-to-body nuts 30 lb-ft
    Upper arm and bushing-to-subframe nuts 66 lb-ft
    Upper arm bushing-to-knuckle nut 66 lb-ft
    Lower arm and bushing-to-subframe bolts 184 lb-ft
    Lower arm and bushing-to-knuckle nut 85 lb-ft
    Toe link-to-subframe nut 35 lb-ft
    Toe link-to-knuckle nut 35 lb-ft
    Stabilizer bar bracket bolt 41 lb-ft
    Stabilizer bar link nuts 35 lb-ft
    Rear axle diff rear insulator-to-axle housing bolts 76 lb-ft
    Rear brake disc dust sheild-to-knuckle bolts 89 lb-in
    Brake line-to-rear brake caliper bolt 30 lb-ft
    Parking brake cable bracket-to-lower arm bushing bolt 11 lb-ft
    ABS sensor bolt 17 lb-ft
    Axle shaft-to-hub retainer 240 lb-ft
    Driveshaft to pinion flange 83 lb-ft
    Wheel nuts 95 lb-ft

    ---------------------------------------------------
    FRONT END TORQUE SPECS
    Front shock absorber upper nut - 74 ft/lbs
    Front shock absorber-to-spindle nuts - 148 ft/lbs
    Shock absorber upper mount-to-body nuts - 30 ft/lbs
    Shock absorber upper mount-to-body bolt - 30 ft/lbs
    Wheel hub and bearing retainer nut - 258 ft/lbs
    Stabilizer bar bracket nuts - 52 ft/lbs
    Stabilizer bar link nuts - 14 ft/lbs
    Anti-lock brake sensor bolt - 53 in/lbs
    Anti-lock brake sensor wire bracket nut - 21 ft/lbs
    Ball joint-to-front wheel spindle nut - 129 ft/lbs
    Front suspension lower arm-to-body nuts - 148 ft/lbs
    Tie-rod-to-spindle nuts - 41 ft/lbs
    Steering gear-to-crossmember nuts - 52 ft/lbs
    Wheel nuts - 95 ft/lbs


    ---------------------------------------------------
    Step by Step Transmission Removal

    1)Disconnect Battery
    2)Get car up on jackstands, tall ones, need 12" under the tires airspace
    3)Remove Shifter handle, bezel/plate and then shifter.
    4)Remove mid pipe
    5)Remove driveshaft (trans plug to keep from leaking or wrap tailshaft with towel/ziploc "diaper") Drain it works too.
    6)Remove Trans mount
    7)Unplug all electrical connections from the trans
    8)Remove clutch inspection cover
    9)Detach clutch cable
    10)Remove lower 4 trans bolts
    11)Support with trans jack
    12)Remove remaining upper trans bolts
    13)Slide trans back and lower trans jack down
    14)Remove Starter 13mm socket, tons of extensions
    15)Remove Bellhousing bolts (remember there are two on the front face holding the bellhousing shield on)
    16)Remove Bellhousing
    17)Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate/clutch
    18)Remove flywheel bolts and flywheel

    Do LDC cooling mod!

    INSTALL
    19)Be sure bellhousing shield is in place on dowels
    20)Install new flywheel and bolts 60ftlb Use RED thread locker!
    21)Hold clutch plate in place with alignment tool
    22)Attach pressure plate and bolts, 35ftlb (BE SURE clutch alignment tool appears to be sticking straight out before you tighten too hard.)
    22)Remove alignment tool
    22)Install Bellhousing and bolts, remember the two that face forward attaching the bellhousing shield. The two top bellhousing bolts also hold a bracket that supports some wiring. 60ftlbs
    23)Install starter 30ftlbs
    21)Put trans in any gear (with your finger)
    22)Raise trans up with trans jack, insert input shaft into clutch slowly while slowly turning tailshaft (aids alignment)
    23)Push trans all the way forward, install trans bolts 40ftlbs
    24)Install trans mount and bolts 40ftlbs
    25)Reinstall all electrical connections on trans.
    26)Install Clutch cable
    27)Install clutch inspection cover
    28)Reinstall driveshaft and bolts 100ftlbs
    29)Reinstall midpipe 30ftlbs

    30)Reinstall shifter/plate and bezel
    31)Lower car
    32)Reconnect battery

    General Specifications Item Specification
    Lubricants and Sealants
    Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A
    (In Oregon VC-5, In Canada CXC-10) ESE-M97B44-A
    Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A
    (In Oregon VC-7-B) WSS-M97B51-A1
    SAE 5W-20 Engine Premium Synthetic Blend Engine Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C153-H
    Metal Surface Cleaner
    F4AZ-19A536-RA WSE-M5B392-A
    Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA WSE-M4G323-A4
    Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A WSK-M2G350-A2
    Threadlock 262 E2FZ-19554-B WSK-M2G351-A6
    Engine
    Displacement 4.6L (4V) (281 CID)
    Number of cylinders 8
    Bore 90.2 mm (3.55 in)
    Stroke 90.0 mm (3.54 in)
    Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
    Oil pressure 138-310 kPa
    Oil capacity 6 ± 0.25a
    Compression ratio 8.5:1
    Cylinder Head and Valve Train
    Cylinder head gasket surface flatness 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) max. overall
    Combustion chamber volume 52.6 ± 0.5 cm
    Valve arrangement (front to rear)b
    Intake (left hand): S-P-S-P-S-P-S-P
    Valve arrangement (front to rear)
    Exhaust (left hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E
    Valve arrangement (front to rear)
    Intake (right hand): P-S-P-S-P-S-P-S
    Valve arrangement (front to rear)
    Exhaust (right hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E
    Valve guide bore diameter 7.015-7.044 mm (0.2762-0.2773 in)
    Valve stem diameter—intake 6.975-6.995 mm (0.2754-0.2746 inch)
    Valve stem diameter—exhaust 6.949-6.970 mm (0.2744-0.2736 inch)
    Valve stem-to-guide clearance—intake 0.020-0.069 mm (0.00078-0.00272 inch)
    Valve stem-to-guide clearance—exhaust 0.046-0.094 mm (0.0018-0.0037 in)
    Valve head diameter—intake 37 mm (1.46 inch)
    Valve head diameter—exhaust 30 mm (1.18 inch)
    Valve face runout 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
    Valve face angle 45.5 degrees
    Valve seat width—intake 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch)
    Valve seat width—exhaust 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch)
    Valve seat runout 0.05 mm (0.002 inch)
    Valve seat angle 45 degrees
    Valve spring free length—intake 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch)
    Valve spring free length—exhaust 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch)
    Valve spring squareness 2 degrees
    Valve spring compression pressure—intake 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch)
    Valve spring compression pressure—exhaust 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch)
    Valve spring installed height 36.14 mm (1.4228 in)
    Valve spring installed pressure—intake 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch)
    Valve spring installed pressure—exhaust 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch)
    Roller follower ratio 1.8:1
    Hydraulic Lash Adjuster
    Diameter 16.000-15.988 mm (0.6299-0.6294 inch)
    Clearance-to-bore 0.018-0.069 mm (0.000709-0.002717 inch)
    Service limit 0.016 mm (1.0006299 inch)
    Hydraulic leakdown ratec 5-25 seconds
    Collapsed lash adjuster gap 0.80-1.20 mm (0.0315-0.0472 inch)
    Camshaft
    Theoretical valve lift @ 0 lash—intake (primary and secondary) 10.0 mm (0.3937 inch)
    Theoretical valve lift @ 0 lash—exhaust 10.0 mm (0.3937 inch)
    Lobe lift 5.54 mm (0.218 in)
    Allowable lobe lift loss 0.130 mm (0.0051 in)
    Journal diameter 26.962-26.936 mm (1.0615-1.0605 inch)
    Camshaft journal bore inside diameter 27.012-26.987 mm (1.0635-1.0625 in)
    Camshaft journal-to bearing clearance 0.025-0.076 mm (0.00098-0.002992 inch)
    Runout 0.025 mm (0.0010 in)
    End play 0.025-0.165 mm (0.00098-0.00649 inch)
    Cylinder Block
    Cylinder bore diameter 90.2-90.239 mm
    Cylinder bore maximum taper 0.016 mm
    Cylinder bore maximum out-of-round 0.016 mm
    Main bearing bore diameter 72.402-72.422 mm
    Head gasket surface flatness 0.15 mm (0.006 in) max. overall
    Crankshaft
    Main bearing journal diameter 67.493 mm
    Main bearing journal maximum taper 0.05 mm
    Main bearing journal maximum out-of round 0.05 mm
    Main bearing journal-to-cylinder block clearance 0.023-0.055 mm
    Connecting rod journal diameter 52.983-53.003 mm
    Connecting rod journal maximum taper 0.004 mm (0.0002 in)
    Connecting rod journal maximum out-of-round 0.004 mm (0.0002 in)
    Crankshaft maximum end play 0.130-0.301 mm
    Thrust bearing journal diameter 67.493 mm
    Thrust bearing journal maximum out-of round 0.05 mm
    Thrust bearing journal maximum taper 0.05 mm
    Thrust bearing journal length 17.725-17.775 mm
    Piston and Connecting Rod
    Piston diameter 90.180-90.191 mm
    Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance -0.010/+0.026 mm
    Piston ring end gap — compression (top) 0.30 mm
    Piston ring end gap — compression (bottom) 0.50 mm
    Piston ring end gap — compression (oil ring) 0.65 mm
    Piston ring groove width — compression (top) 1.53-1.549 mm
    Piston ring groove width — compression (bottom) 1.519-1.539 mm
    Piston ring groove width — oil ring 3.031-3.055 mm
    Piston ring width — compression (top) 1.47-1.49 mm
    Piston ring width — compression (bottom) 1.47-1.49 mm
    Piston ring width — oil ring 2.854-2.984 mm
    Piston ring-to groove clearance — compression (top) 0.04-0.079 mm
    Piston ring-to groove clearance — compression (bottom) 0.029-0.069 mm
    Piston ring-to groove clearance — oil ring 0.047-0.201 mm
    Piston pin bore diameter 22.0042-21.998 mm
    Piston pin diameter 21.991-29.994 mm
    Piston pin length 61.60-62.03 mm
    Piston pin-to-piston fit 0.0058-0.0132 mm
    Connecting rod-to-pin clearance 0.018-0.033 mm
    Connecting rod pin bore diameter 22.012-22.024 mm
    Connecting rod length 150.7 mm
    Connecting rod maximum allowed bend 0.038 mm per 25 mm
    Connecting rod maximum allowed twist 0.050 mm per 25 mm
    Connecting rod bearing bore diameter 56.866-56.886 mm
    Connecting rod bearing-to-crankshaft clearance 0.027-0.069 mm

    Connecting rod side clearance 0.15-0.45 mm

    a With installation of a new filter.
    b P=Primary, S=Secondary, E=Exhaust
    c Time necessary for plunger to leak down 1.6 mm of travel with 222 N force and leak down fluid in tappet.


    Torque Specifications Nm lb-ft lb-in
    A/C compressor bolts 25 18 —
    A/C peanut fittings 8 — 71
    A/C muffler nut 25 18 —
    Accelerator bracket bolts 10 — 89
    Battery tray bolts 11 8 —
    Belt idler support bracket assembly fasteners 25 18 —
    Camshaft sprocket bolt 115 85 —
    Coolant bypass tube studs 25 18 —
    Coolant bypass tube bolts 25 18 —
    Coolant hose and tube assembly bolt 25 18 —
    Cooling fan motor and shroud bolts 10 — 89

    Connecting rod bolt Stage 1: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).

    Engine front cover 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
    Drive belt tensioner bolts 25 18 —

    Cylinder head bolt Tighten the bolts in six stages, in the sequence shown.
    Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
    Stage 3: Loosen the bolts a minimum of one full turn.
    Stage 4: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
    Stage 5: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
    Stage 6: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

    Idler pulley bracket 25 18 —
    Power steering pump bolts 25 18 —
    Power steering hose fitting 65 48 —
    Power steering hose bracket bolt 10 — 89

    Pulley to crankshaft bolt tighten the bolt in four stages.
    Stage 1: Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Loosen the bolt one full turn.
    Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
    Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

    EGR valve to intake manifold 10Nm(89inlbs)
    Engine coolant degas bottle bolts 10 — 89
    Exhaust manifold studs 25 18 —
    Generator bolts 25 18 —
    Generator support bracket bolts 25 18 —
    Hood prop bolt 10 — 89
    Hood mounting nuts 12 9 —

    Heater water inlet tube 10 — 89
    Heater water outlet tube 24 18 —
    Lower intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolt 10 Nm (89 lb-in)

    Main bearing cap bolt-vertical main bearing cap fasteners Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees
    jack screws against the cylinder block Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
    Stage 2: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
    side bolts: 21Nm(15 ftlbs)

    Oil filter adapter bolt 25 18 —
    Oil bypass filter to adapter 50 37 —
    Oil pump screen cover and tube-to-oil pump bolt 10 — 89

    Oil pan-to-cylinder block bolt Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Rotate an additional 60 degrees

    Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolt 10 — 89
    Radio ignition interference capacitor bolts 25 18 —
    Oil pump screen and pickup tube-to-main bearing cap stud spacer bolt 25 18 —
    Water pump pulley bolts 25 18 —
    Throttle body spacer nuts 25 18 —
    Vacuum accessory bracket fasteners 10 — 89
    Valve cover bolt 10 — 89
    Wiring harness support bracket 25 18 —
    Water pump-to-cylinder block bolt 25 18 —
    EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nuts 40 30 —
    Power steering pump to engine 25 18 —
    Power steering hose bracket nut 25 18 —
    Power steering reservoir bracket fasteners 10 — 89
    Supercharger degas bottle bolts 10 — 89
    Camshaft cap cluster to cylinder head 10 — 89
    Timing chain tensioner bolts—primary 25 18 —
    Timing chain tensioner bolts—secondary 10 — 89
    Ignition coil cover bolts 10 — 89
    Generator mounting bracket retainers 10 — 89
    Oil level indicator tube retainer 10 — 89
    Primary timing chain guide-to-engine bolts 10 — 89
    Oil pump screen and pickup tube spacer to main bearing stud 25 18 —
    Belt idler pulley bolt 25 18 —
    Subframe brace nuts 41 30 —
    Flywheel 85Nm(63ftlbs.)

    Pressure plate Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
    Stage 2: Tighten the bolts an additional 60 degrees.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2006
  2. SciFiHiFi

    SciFiHiFi Member Established Member

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    best post EVER.
     
  3. DSG2003SVT

    DSG2003SVT Gray only, please Established Member

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    :lol: :lol:
    :bowdown: postban
     
  4. 32V SVT

    32V SVT Member Established Member

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    Redondo Beach, CA.
    Damn, thats an OUTSTANDING post!!!

    Thx Man!

    :thumbsup:
     
  5. 87FOXGT

    87FOXGT New Member Established Member

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    Buffalo, NY
    another dumb question. two of the bellhousing bolts are long. where do they bolt in :blink: i got em all uh scattered around.
     
  6. postban

    postban ...rollin on 20's Established Member

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    Long ones are the top two, they go through the wiring support bracket.
     
  7. 87FOXGT

    87FOXGT New Member Established Member

    Messages:
    647
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    Buffalo, NY
    If i have the LDC mod installed, isnt this bracket eliminated though? Does it make a difference? Thanks again man.
     
  8. Brian97vobra

    Brian97vobra New Member Established Member

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    West Palm Beach, FL
    Very informative! Do any of the bushing from the top 5 on the list mess with ride quality at all? And how hard are these to install?
     
  9. STROKD

    STROKD Takin pictures of stuff Established Member

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    Holy Christ, that is the best informative thread EVER!!! So it is alright to do like 1, and then 2 at a time, don't have to do em all at once? What would be the best ones to change together, so there isn't any removal of similar parts more than once. Would you recommend a new allignment after doing said install as well? Thanks for the kick a$$ thread and instructions!!!
     
  10. DSG2003SVT

    DSG2003SVT Gray only, please Established Member

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    I would do the less than 500rwhp list all together:
    1)Billetflow Diff Cover Brace $160
    2)MM Diff bushings $50 or $250
    3)MMFLSFC's installed $250-300 installed
    4)MM IRS Bushings $50 with 14mm bolts/nuts $15
    5)Billetflow IRS Mount Brackets $50
    6)Used coupe springs $50 (est) (only for verts)
    7)Nitto DR $375-$425 installed

    That's not TOO much money to get all those and it would be easier to change them all at once. I could understand if one couldn't afford...say...the $1500 L-5 1/2-shafts and the $410 toe link bars together. As far as the alignment goes, you can be careful if you do it yourself and mark all the alignment points before removal so that you can line them back up when putting the car back together; but if you take it to a shop, I would definitly get it checked out afterward.
     
  11. jlauth

    jlauth Active Member Established Member

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    great stuff man thanks
     
  12. STROKD

    STROKD Takin pictures of stuff Established Member

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    Cool well I already have the Nittos and springs, so all I need is 1-5 and that looks to be around $500... I will deff save up after I get my HE and Ice box... :banana:
     
  13. 87FOXGT

    87FOXGT New Member Established Member

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    Anyone? Bueller?
     
  14. ROBSNAKE

    ROBSNAKE New Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Thanks for the info. Who is reputable in the ny area to do the IRS mods that you would suggest. Awesome info
     
  15. NOMANIAC3

    NOMANIAC3 New Member Established Member

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    Outstanding Info
     
  16. DSG2003SVT

    DSG2003SVT Gray only, please Established Member

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    Dave,

    Are there any advantages to getting the aluminum IRS diff bushings rather than the urethane ones except for the potential melting from the heat? I just can't stand gear whine and I don't know if I want to trade off a quiet driveline for a stronger IRS bushing. I know, I know...I'm a big whiner, but there we are.
     
  17. postban

    postban ...rollin on 20's Established Member

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    I have not heard of the MM Urethane ones melting, only the Steeda ones. Try em and lemme know.
     
  18. DSG2003SVT

    DSG2003SVT Gray only, please Established Member

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    Will do. I have some cheap crappy ones in there now that came free with something else I bought. I figured I'd go ahead and swap them out this go around.
     
  19. FSTMRFR

    FSTMRFR FaST MotheR Fuc keR Established Member

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    thanks for the bitchen post, it is extremely helpful....
     
  20. mccoigk

    mccoigk BLUSN8K Established Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 13, 2006
    Location:
    Central Florida
    Just wondering -- would any of the #1 - 7 mods void my warranty?
     

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