Long Tube Header Questions

[13GreenGT]

I have a 13 GT that I'm looking to buy long tubes for. I'm looking to go with Kooks LT's w/ the catted x-pipe.

I do have a couple questions

1) I'm hung up on whether to go with the 1-3/4" or the 1-7/8" primaries.

2) I'm looking into lowering the car on Ford racing K springs (1.5" drop); will I have clearance issues with the LT's?

3) The car only has 4k miles on it yet and from what I have been reading it seems most people re-use the header studs and even the factory header gaskets?

4) Is there a better header that is more cost effective to go with instead of kooks? With the same quality?

Thanks guys!

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

The kooks are nice headers, for the money kooks, ARH and SW are all top notch headers, We also have good luck with the stainless power headers for a cheaper option.

As far as size some people think 1 7/8 is fine for an N/A car and some thing its too big. The 1 3/4 is a good size for a middle ground.

For the exhaust gaskets if you are doing the job might as well just spend the money for some new ford OEM exhaust manifold gaskets and no the lowering springs will not cause clearance issues.

 

[scott_0]

I had 15k miles when I installed my LT's, I reused the gaskets and stock hardware with no issues........

 

[djclark]

Im running ARH headers and am lowered 1.5" - no issues.

I would not sweat primary size. I went for 1 7/8" as I got a really good deal used.

The thing to keep in mind is if you want to run E85, I know the ARHs require the 02 bung is moved before you can safely do it. Kooks I think work as is with E85.

 

[03Sssnake]

^^^^You would definitely want to clock the O2 bung higher up on the collector to a more vertical position on those ARH headers.

 

[scott_0]

I forgot to add, my buddy had JBA's on his 2011, his only complaint on them was that hang really low, I run Pypes, they are tucked up in tight

 

[kona 199]

i reused the stock gaskets and no leaks.also i think the factory studs are better than bolts but its hard to get a long tube over them if u dont pull the k member.

 

[Nuar]

I run ARH and they tuck up very nice, I am on sportlines and I usually have no issues at all... other than popping the damn o2 sensors all the time because of the retarded design/o2 sensor placement by ARH

 

[13GreenGT]

Awesome! Sounds like I should be in good shape then, what is the best way to install them? Dropping the K member or just removing motor mounts like I've seen on some install videos?

 

[oldbones]

Awesome! Sounds like I should be in good shape then, what is the best way to install them? Dropping the K member or just removing motor mounts like I've seen on some install videos?

I dropped my k-member when I installed, much easier.

 

[SCalla1384]

I dropped the K and replaced with a BMR Tubular K.

I'm running Kooks 1-3/4. I had to take the Studs out on some, they would not clear certain primaries. Even if I was able to get the header on, with all Studs through, the nut would make contact with a primary and wouldn't thread down all the way.

I left 2 Studs in on each side. One on the top right, one on the bottom left to hold the Gasket in place, then just used all Kooks supplied bolts. Made it much easier.

No clearence issues, never rubbed or bottomed out. And imo, if you're doing the job, just buy new manifold gaskets. I only had maybe 6k miles on mine, but imo it's money well spent. Didn't want to chance having a leak.

 

[scott_0]

other than popping the damn o2 sensors all the time because of the retarded design/o2 sensor placement by ARH

E85?? I have Pypes and they're sensor placement is terrible as well, Ive yet to have a front sensor go bad in 1+ years of having the LT's on.........

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

We typically prefer the Kooks 1 3/4 longtubes.

 

[beefcake]

any brand will work well, especially on the big 3 us made brands just as tom said.