Longtube header install where to support motor from?

SCalla1384

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I'm in the middle of doing headers and a BMR tubular K member. The k member is basically ready to be dropped. I have a strut bar to support the motor. Wondering where you guys support it from?

In this picture, I have the stands right at the strut tower for support.

5F755BE8-B19B-4F1E-852A-02AAE47B7619_zpsxplcuqsm.jpg



And looks like this

444CD052-F4C6-45CB-B11B-3DB47D555CC0_zpseztffkf6.jpg



I would think, if I was going to support somewhere on the timing cover, the whole bar should come forward basically being right on top of the timing cover. But the body seems flimsy there.

I could use the intake manifold bolts, but I don't want to take the intake off and leave it open for a few days.

If anyone has any pictures of how they did it I'd appreciate it.
 

wachamberlain

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Lot of guys use a piece of wood, padded/cloth under the damper....A floor jack, to support the motor on the damper I meant
 

SCalla1384

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I feel much more comfortable supporting it from the top. Plus it won't be in the way when I need to get under there
 

drkmrkiv

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Most (me included) used floor jack on transmission. I used phone books to cushion. I'd use that in addition to up top support.
 

slagburn

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Oil pan only if you're very careful and use 2x4's to support the load. NEVER use the damper to lift an engine!

With an overhead bar I've wrapped straps around the stock manifolds but that doesn't help when installing headers. Maybe go down to the engine mount brackets?
 

grnenvy

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The only really good place to grab this motor without a lot of work is the exhaust stud. Unfortunately that's where your working so that won't work. I wouldn't grab at the front timing cover that would suck if u broke a bolt or caused a leak from it. I would grab at the lower intake bolt but I would grab two bolts at one time on each side. The bolts aren't very strong and the block is thin and don't forget aluminum. Go to Home Depot and grab a length of plate steel and make two brackets.
 

stangn

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Ford has engine removal brackets that bolt to the block and you could support it from the top. Don't know how much they cost.
 

SCalla1384

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The only really good place to grab this motor without a lot of work is the exhaust stud. Unfortunately that's where your working so that won't work. I wouldn't grab at the front timing cover that would suck if u broke a bolt or caused a leak from it. I would grab at the lower intake bolt but I would grab two bolts at one time on each side. The bolts aren't very strong and the block is thin and don't forget aluminum. Go to Home Depot and grab a length of plate steel and make two brackets.

Yeah that's what I was thinking.

I can go to ace, grab a stud the same size as the water pump bolts and use 2 nuts on it, so if it does break I can still take it out. A grade 8 stud shouldn't snap, but never know.

I do have the jack with a phone book under the transmission. Just wanted some support from the top to be safe
 

SCalla1384

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In Unleashed Beast's How-To thread, he supported the motor at the trans. He did the install on the ground with stands.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-370/982106-bmr-k-member-install-lots-pics.html

What headers you going with? I'm getting ready to tackle mine, and am debating doing the K at the dame time.

Thanks, I was using that as a guide too.

Kooks 1-3/4 with off road X.

Thanks for the replys guys, I'll see where I'm gonna support it and I'll post up where I do.
 

Nuar

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I did mine with a floor jack on the transmission ribs right before it meets the engine with a pieces of a 2x4 between the jack and the tranny. Worked out really well for me.
 

1Quick4.6

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Wow never seen so much bad advice when then man has the correct tool for the job already. We move it forward and used random spots on the front of the motor.
 

grnenvy

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Oil pan on this car isn't flat like the old 5.0s and I know a couple guys that have pushed the pan in and then had to replace it. But yeah u can do it and get lucky.
 

SCalla1384

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Wow never seen so much bad advice when then man has the correct tool for the job already. We move it forward and used random spots on the front of the motor.

lol!!


Okay, so there's 2 threaded bolt holes in the valley right under the intake (there's no bolts in them) I used those 2, then a stud on the driver side right next to the alternator, then on the passenger side used the same type of bolt for the type in the valley for a threaded empty hole in the timing cover. Pics


ADAD16D3-055A-409B-81FE-8DCDA9227297_zpsn8wazslo.jpg



Stud on driver side right above alternator

602181C2-5573-41E3-AD5A-3B172AF261BA_zpslt07iqgu.jpg



2 bolt holes in the valley and passenger side timing cover

207E934C-4DF3-41D4-8FCB-A196484468CC_zpsifrjhfmf.jpg



I was nervous having the stands for the support bar on such thin metal as seen here

8AD7655D-E459-4850-93BC-61BF3B56485A_zpsmauo9w5d.jpg



But seems to be working fine. I dropped the K member no problem.
 

Nuar

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all this trouble when the tanny would have done just fine :p
Mine was there for 2 days no issues :)
 

Blazer707@TBR

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I have done a few sets of long tubes including my own and no joke i jack up the tranny with a jack and no wood or phonebook. And Ive let the motor just hang and never had a problem.
 

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