Looking for build direction for a 01 Cobra

_Lariat

_lariat on insta
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I'm going to be the odd man out on this.

with a 4k budget on a 180k car, you're really playing with fire putting any boost on it. Finding a good long block is getting harder for these cars, and when you do, you're paying for them. (if you have to have the 8 bolt crank.)

my 97 cobra came to me as a basic bolt on car with gears and suspension. Since then, it has gotten 05 aviator heads with my cobra cams, 4.30 gears, mach lower intake, (should be the same as your 01,) and a t56. DO NOT put an 03 cobra in an N/A 4v. I cannot wait until I find a good mach 1, or 03/04 GT tr3650 to shove back in it. Other than the poor gearing of the t56, I've loved it. Racing my buddies 6.1 SRT8 charger has been a back and forth between us depending on the air that day.

I've been seriously looking at bumping compression to 10:1 or 11:1, adding cams. headers, and fuel to make it work. a high 300 wheel N/A 4.6 with the appropriate gearing wont be the fastest car on the road, but defiantly faster than you may realize.

If you're drag racing it, get rid of that IRS. I enjoy IRS cars, but they get expensive to make work on a drag strip. That can add nearly 1k to your budget if you do the deal right.
 

Badaz01

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With a 4K budget you are looking at a used procharger kit and tune. Stay at 400-425 and the motor under 3k will be no more stressed than it would have been NA. If you don’t drag race and it’s a weekend cruiser with conservative timing the motor will be fine. Compression and leak down test before anything IMO.

Cams are expensive and expensive to install and unless you are positive you are staying NA they are not a good benefit / dollar ratio item.

If you want to go any other route I would go the NA SVT route and add gears and some bushings in the rear end, lowering springs and a short throw shifter.

You can pull the rear yourself for the bushings and just hand off the pumpkin to the guy doing the gears. Saves a few bucks with them not having to drop the irs. Not a bad job just have 4 jack stands for the rear end cradle and wood blocks to help position it.

At 4K you have no budget for a clutch if FI and if you go FI expect to have to get a better clutch sooner than later.
Your a better man than I that full tilt boogie irs bushing kit was a major pita for us. We even put the he new bushing in the freezer and all.
 

01yellercobra

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All forged Cobra cranks are 8 bolt. So if you want a forged crank you kinda need it to be 8 bolt.

Mileage doesn't matter. Maintenance does. I've seen 200k engines in better shape than 20k engines because of maintenance or lack thereof.

As mentioned, do a compression and leak down check, then decide from there.


Edit: I think the 96-98 Mark VII cranks are 6 bolt, but I don't think they're forged.
 
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RX1Cobra

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I'm going to be the odd man out on this.

with a 4k budget on a 180k car, you're really playing with fire putting any boost on it. Finding a good long block is getting harder for these cars, and when you do, you're paying for them. (if you have to have the 8 bolt crank.)

my 97 cobra came to me as a basic bolt on car with gears and suspension. Since then, it has gotten 05 aviator heads with my cobra cams, 4.30 gears, mach lower intake, (should be the same as your 01,) and a t56. DO NOT put an 03 cobra in an N/A 4v. I cannot wait until I find a good mach 1, or 03/04 GT tr3650 to shove back in it. Other than the poor gearing of the t56, I've loved it. Racing my buddies 6.1 SRT8 charger has been a back and forth between us depending on the air that day.

I've been seriously looking at bumping compression to 10:1 or 11:1, adding cams. headers, and fuel to make it work. a high 300 wheel N/A 4.6 with the appropriate gearing wont be the fastest car on the road, but defiantly faster than you may realize.

If you're drag racing it, get rid of that IRS. I enjoy IRS cars, but they get expensive to make work on a drag strip. That can add nearly 1k to your budget if you do the deal right.

I'll trade you the 3650 out of my Cobra for the T56!

Your a better man than I that full tilt boogie irs bushing kit was a major pita for us. We even put the he new bushing in the freezer and all.

I did all bushings in the rear too and they weren't that bad. I used the prothane set and have a press so I'm sure that helped. Pulled the entire rear and reinstalled it by myself on the garage floor over winter.

Meant to do a step by step here with pics but got lazy.
 

BrokeMedStudent

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Phoenix Arizona
If I were you I would start with a full exhaust, full tilt boogie racing IRS kit, 4.10 gears, good tires, and a dyno tune. You can also do steeda underdrive pulleys and a cold air intake as well. You'll be at about 320 RWHP and surprised at the difference in acceleration...I think the gearing and crappy stock IRS bushings are the main culprit. Once you have the gears, IRS bushings, and tires it's going to be a completely different animal. I went the NA cammed route and I'm starting to regret it because of the cost and no one can get my idle tuned correctly...it has been a nightmare. I would've been satisfied without the cams, but you can also progress to cams later if you want the power.
 

Dirks9901

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Given your situation, i would enjoy the car N/A until you’re ready for a rebuild and then the options are limitless.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 
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