Looking for thread: TIGHTENING THE STEERING RACK

[b dub]

I read it on here recently but I've searched and searched. It involved removing an access panel on the top of the rack and putting a ratchet (I think) into it to turn the adjustment mechanism. Preload, I think, is what it adjusts. To take out slack in the steering.

Anyone?

 

[b dub]

Nobody? I'll take and post pics when I do it then. It's amazing the amount of incorrect info I've found while searching how to remove steering slack. Everybody thinks it's alignment specs, steering rack bushings, and rag joints.

 

[Ratchet27]

I would like to know as well. My cobra has the same problem

 

[CJK440]

Loosen the large sheetmetal jamn nut, the you can adjust the mesh by turning the large adjustment "bolt" with a 19mm socket. I don't know what the adjustment specs are so be carefull. Basically under the adjustment screw is a shoe that backs the rack. Tightening it pushes the rack into mesh with the pinion. Just sneak up on the correct adjustment to minimize steering slack. Tighten it too much and you will preload it and cause another set of drivability issues at a minimum.

 

[b dub]

There we go! Thanks. Have you posted a thread about this on here before?


edit: you sure it's 19mm? I thought mine is 1-1/8th"

 

[b dub]

I would like to know as well. My cobra has the same problem

Gonna take a(nother) shot at this. ;-);-) Here's the sheetmetal nut you have to tap off with a chisel/hammer:

(oh, and excuse my infantile photography skills, cheap point and shoot, and obviously excessive use of a flash, lol)

You don't have to take it off like I did, just loosen it. I took it off for instructional purposes:

All you need to do is break the nut loose with the socket, after that you can turn it by hand:

And that's it. Don't overdo this- check, feel, recheck, feel, repeat. You need one hand on the socket and one on the steering shaft, and you need to turn the socket by hand while turning the shaft by hand as well. The fact that the 19mm nut is able to tightened by hand makes it easy to gauge when to stop. Basically you just turn the nut clockwise until it is hand snug. Mine, however took a bit of tightening before it was snug. And the slop? Well, it's gone, and I'm very pleased. And this is with a stock shaft, rubber rag joint, high mile tie rods/rack, etc. I honestly think this is the real issue with high mileage Mustangs, certainly not the alignment specs, solid steering shaft U-joints, and solid rack bushings most people recommend. Not that I'd advise against any of those mods, they are all great.
I had a U-joint machined out of aircraft material from my machinist buddy, but I cracked that bad boy accidentally. I do have the solid rack bushings though, and plan on getting a Borgeson solid U-joint to replace the rag joint.

I even strapped the wheel down so I would only feel the rack play:

These are the tools I used:

Hammer, punch, 1/2" ratchet, 19mm socket.

edit: good God I just noticed the state of my calipers. They are substitutes while I paint the originals, I swear.

 

[006]

Very nice!

Quality thread indeed!

 

[CJK440]

There we go! Thanks. Have you posted a thread about this on here before?


edit: you sure it's 19mm? I thought mine is 1-1/8th"

Yes, I posted before. Just don't go too crazy in the search for zero slop or else the rack will bind.