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Manual steering/brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="keith89" data-source="post: 16600218" data-attributes="member: 53797"><p>been flamed many times for running manual brakes and steering but it works for me. I'm running a 15/16" wilwood master cylinder with proportioning valve. I had to modify my pedal by moving it down in the pedal box and raising the pin that activates the master cylinder. I did a lot of math to figure out the correct pedal ratio and master cylinder size based on the effective caliper piston area I am running. I also used a brake pressure gauge to verify I am able to produce adequarte line pressure with the foot brake. I have great pedal modulation and can still lock all 4 tires. If i ran the 1-1/8" master cylinder that most places sell as manual brake "kits", i would not be able to stop without standing on the pedal. Bigger master cylinder = less line pressure for a given pressure on the pedal. In this case, bigger is often not better.</p><p></p><p>I did score a 600 series tilton floor mounted pedal box that i am planning out at the moment. This will provide even better pedal feel because when i was measuring brake pressure with the gauge on the master cylinder, I noticed the firewall flexing a bit and would like to avoid that.</p><p></p><p>as for manual steering, i do recommend going with a flaming river rack and choose the ratio depending on your usage. I run road courses and the occasional street with 275's on all 4 corners so I chose a 20:1(standard ratio) flaming river rack and its perfect for me even with my scrawny arms. Its a bit tough at low speed but once you're moving its not an issue. If you plan to run skinnies up front, you can probably get away with a 15:1 rack.</p><p></p><p>A must is the MM solid steering shaft for the flaming river rack. The flaming river rack has a splined input so the stock rack or regular MM solid rack will not fit. Also, with the flaming river rack, you will need 79-93 tie rod ends because the threads are different. I went with MM's 79-93 bumpsteer kit for this.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keith89, post: 16600218, member: 53797"] been flamed many times for running manual brakes and steering but it works for me. I'm running a 15/16" wilwood master cylinder with proportioning valve. I had to modify my pedal by moving it down in the pedal box and raising the pin that activates the master cylinder. I did a lot of math to figure out the correct pedal ratio and master cylinder size based on the effective caliper piston area I am running. I also used a brake pressure gauge to verify I am able to produce adequarte line pressure with the foot brake. I have great pedal modulation and can still lock all 4 tires. If i ran the 1-1/8" master cylinder that most places sell as manual brake "kits", i would not be able to stop without standing on the pedal. Bigger master cylinder = less line pressure for a given pressure on the pedal. In this case, bigger is often not better. I did score a 600 series tilton floor mounted pedal box that i am planning out at the moment. This will provide even better pedal feel because when i was measuring brake pressure with the gauge on the master cylinder, I noticed the firewall flexing a bit and would like to avoid that. as for manual steering, i do recommend going with a flaming river rack and choose the ratio depending on your usage. I run road courses and the occasional street with 275's on all 4 corners so I chose a 20:1(standard ratio) flaming river rack and its perfect for me even with my scrawny arms. Its a bit tough at low speed but once you're moving its not an issue. If you plan to run skinnies up front, you can probably get away with a 15:1 rack. A must is the MM solid steering shaft for the flaming river rack. The flaming river rack has a splined input so the stock rack or regular MM solid rack will not fit. Also, with the flaming river rack, you will need 79-93 tie rod ends because the threads are different. I went with MM's 79-93 bumpsteer kit for this. [/QUOTE]
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