Mark 8 cooling fan upgrade

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
Figured I'd throw up a post with a few pics and details since I couldn't find much when I was looking into this. Found the need to upgrade my cooling fan here recently. Between the hot weather and a big blower turning hard temps go up. When I run the killer chiller it of course dumps all that heat in front of the radiator which makes coolant temps go up. I was hitting 244F coolant temp not even beating on the car in some miserable 100F or so.

Did a little searching and reading and the Lincoln Mark 8 cooling fan was the most powerful single fan that Ford ever made. Specifically the 97/98 fans pushing some 4500 CFM. Beat only by the 2010+ F150 dual fans coming in at some 6500 CFM. I got the dimensions of the F150 fan setup and there was no way in hell that was even remotely going to fit so that was out.

Picked up a 98 fan and got to work.

You'll notice the Mark 8 fan has a shroud too. That alone will make a huge difference.
IvHQOWp2NmZtHXGts40DQ72eox_OPoXsUS3WEFT-9EBPCiPRe95zUyjMdKDKGfzgk0aoaRVdwWh84mQIPYqw5Tpoww7mmxHhb6OX4RNe1psa1z_rWHYa748sjFpBUBZIO5vb9eaAId8SXdtv5xxdz_K-2FIqeZe4RbUHhzVzquRPrHgPHE6zao0L4rOli6qz3NhC_oaUmUi7ayWt6zz282h_wu6mQRZzwL_F6eOb8_rG1fAhuJuazIVS3mGX1v1fZZQf8y8JfR_cJzEW4Fa8A2SdSXiu7Idf8NgiTmmPxP5Zi6sdxM55tC3QFOo60kcgapSYeWQK4H27PUNVCPsCl3dVsGg4anTTDsreQVKAb_pFgFCPQc5miNtJQNYaOFlI8wXHxLMAVI1mVa91mLPYlvEqbc0f2kaQv62ZPoEUR77jBTxs1dZVlk3vi-8oUsfRBIxQ-40WnYkG2Q4O6cV4LY2tHF2QcmQ8USAvkAutNF89dtI5HzPC1VhlzBaWMJIz3z7daGe-Yclz8BRZBqRcW2NLM5x42yQPJz3FcIOvkdSARSUJbDjg1FiG-NwESqXvQyZFiGSn1KEtbOARohRYcEEPHsCmcsY=w800-h600-no


After several test fits the tabs were trimmed down to this
bTRp4sSItiCLK7i_A325wMymY-vNnhDo11EXKUOeoqZakg5pEUqegiVXIMmsOYKWwLxWIl5Z9mSErfaWhvQfSEtACqlBJVTykFyPR4rZpQQaejqJujZNZ_i1TbG5UVqAEQcqj7R3SUV02RY5YbRLL1ci1H3Y8dcr_6BI49XzXwcJWdLmG9e29_r3DSYLu7RMPOVuJ1kVdo-Nk5feQ9206bPXSs9i22AsL0pgginOAQK5HdyXKQGJBgq57pqPdn2UP4Cssikd-NO6rGDUhp4j4CvqfLh33_XGdSdcsABFNq3qTpANKC7BfdbWZHGjwmasmGQ1Lqb7O9FmX5W_SZot4kBPxeP1-vWaIybX4f8JTkefq0L8azLtJWjygoEIm7CmJc4aw1r71PGFVj3AzyvGuRstnkXaOkFCasBwVikNnDuGibtyUjdzQCvZuTM9ENpb8gtyZi5tDubkUv6YfZ3czuvctJwiQHGYreSh28iQbfZQwnnUQTdAMtcC5vjwNWa1WtKH-UStX-g8iomMH6T5UHX0HCG0LeIGVdyrUlc0buiZXAcsIaBveM3QAw-WLXgLt5yYxTWJu-f_-M0Vv51nfKulkjWT3Sg=w800-h600-no


Here's a notch I made for the ABS motor. I also slotted the holes on the ABS module's bracket and slid it as far back as possible to reduce the notch size and interference.
IQ3oDlBLD7iQ8d1N1IYCxOTnfrRmybzlcg096re1_dBoscp2YkvVoJwZFlGkijfH7e52k6F9CUsTT3dkA5pRYseblxhoZwR9kQPsq4keMcye6ZuPHbKCNV6jgtRYPPU0Ct6h1aeaibA4-I6ywrmw2-VpGf_Vmj06PUnn1dpNnJ1jbFbiR_aZ8ZVvQLE3gEsY7hwhkme0GEAh7LlaGA2-LSFaLwgrumiyMdrC_hZ0ovxhTWVea_fLNa_kwKDELcsRYBKCZsnYWB9OyZe-7d4YoFwRlkqYQqvosnvDifdoPecz5Gv9ibO4NyilMYDVA-jFXc49lN3B20Gn7wHWGo7rN82eDTTkEjTEXPVIklBDt_ZbCzHapNRoZYasnWslRni_7lrov64xDBlyrPO4UgKw9rP-OAHP_P4BD-uIu7bmpFcouYh31iWMx4tSQVJ1FjFY8CbXrpqEieJXBT7k8C7rjoyR8obhXJI9EIQc9pgIDaRgWJGAmtoeGfoiRN0er6Xl8FVCQsKsto0358YzSPScoyKHozRd75uIRPcu0yGNM-2qIiEjSUxlDsulL9vWMgGPypX2u-UeCPJL2XBtyu5cVOtWjxvzvwo=w800-h600-no


It actually fit in there amazingly well. A stock supercharger reservoir would be OK too but I'd end up having to come back and notch it for my larger tank covered in neoprene.
yiV8eZRHSWVu2c9zZZ08MBkmyyKUV8vguGgpkLyVjYqs2LMI2ivnqmKzyJnwh0cJdctkQeHepdgq8yOINgbZo31w-0jv_7mJssJickbVyr-BZaz1g-9IFdfwTAZh-rs1y6-yyoHxzo8IvitGrdg8citEKRCmxuIySIXwlSrBfrjOeyy41Q8YDbmiwmJAeiy7yyhpQKWwQ-uXLv0PDCxsm80y9JT2v12HKbeuCPPZFaGVXNCMdhNr30mRaHHrb2at3p9WbKeB-iK59DkOMX6DIFwtbBYns_qMlQi-fJ53m7Dj_McyMg55pZrWodWRXkhKPnXuTOo5Q7Ri22vPDHQazyuG4EXEZtbA36eX2tzDpbfkmX1dNWsiR0jSC9IZ6xxrEGPgm3qlkgQFiR5-qmWs4wXuxv_2Aw2IkKrsZ1mJT6-sd03_2F8oupLYkkS0WrBjHTTjaUf4bMACi7fQ01rqndr8ZuNhmXaKyM05ANjM0Lp8j6OK1LdpaaKptAAE_FyawhuU-4STJdmUQy_2X-cW5PD685kMObKx0_jXyP549E-bG-sIzDcMJH_Jd8sMf-Yuz5HEY1ylJJiH4ROMkzaSs8m0xpEZ39U=w800-h600-no


Here you can see the bottom fitment. Again very nice.
X1J-pv-PWAccnM3DuBH8RmV8xGPJNzD7_yRSRIntUEy_93o_LAZY4nGEKHblzFZzjgN0KnkyjFHK-x6sVyTIBkdj9HQuLMQfBWVzLT9vWKXJUaObiSM4pC3qUHDBJVdkg0vUQDmxGpDalkhxmBWNE89xQt1_xuNFZ5JImZuzf6Kjyv13JRnzgb2ta3vJMctt1auvl8VJDheILsuWZqwRuCZulYvnrStg2CYAIaZEyZf3ADscHvvFOsVhv7Rwb4C7aqlUND1sRn8FZuBOgi6aF9uJhnSlqBa1nc9CsB8aRmH1cLzQh-U3cp8SjlMN03R91vu3qTds0UzhwHBt9PseU0siTs8cJTU6P6BZiY1d9pUar3F3TI-UmRLLNpce1urQbeS_7OdKc3JdcG16cJwQ4anV4m0q5UkiG5IzMCMmRmMkOF26ZmP_W3yqQBDYXPkTad-0h6thiVRroDouV6vW8f_44obnnDyE2s6uvuspiCXfU7SgXo12yXLk7amcC281axm9kso0ld5r_-hLj_jxLPhDxslnpgxmMRHxj2awT7EeUp--R5dA_kQfdJ9yP30Ird1P1Llaal0-tzRJ-3ZwABEAHtlsc0c=w800-h600-no


Here's the notch I had to put in the top right corner for the intercooler reservoir.
4g1QLo72927gpSenIGJ71ClcMegu0q82iA__jPI5g_yBLvpqaEoDKYrsIS68PesT510g9j8Bd25vpa-h9isgsjWyaufv4llwgWh1aLFpVSTqrtYh2abp1lCGFwwJHaSLBEiIm7tkBkYVrD24rTfzqNTImy_ZhBfbF027K1dcPy9iTzcr8oWOh70lfY8Qjj_f-wLnWBgxsJscrWgpx1HuUNH0soIvCSO9h0sYI4zH5v7jPtC17jtXvwRMYchsPrsWy5ywQ8C1rfmGOA9_aJdKs-SExv3Z_AEW73653zRShtreCdAt7HRJfGWVYtf8qEqPmZKyTf98mE_3dNUM2LbzW96j6tNDOfxDCcAaIUqANEBAiLOx8fMLSO6MqbGF--cWD7Q4cSXXmNaeyPn75Xw82uReOaOEPyNCB6WnLRmGvoVvIOeKTP-t68YWHHEIHI-JyVEjhg7lgvdwaCPZT_j3eIFL5ZvU032zxuJUpBM93JDy2Mr0DTgNnIzO25AiSanL8QhUEIvudbprFx91A4yEy_iHMsLhaaI0V2iPKDOToA1aWQqQWMXeJJ2t-2jssJ_W9Z4uMDQE5s0RKITf-yMFT1ehyivwaW4=w800-h600-no


Installed with notch.
nrrK71oOtEt3uqXQ22bv-QELyFOvzudyvDuETLEeWtdgq7LsGKjojjbsJLGSmg8s1IkFvoE4uSG5afEw39LfqoeJy1jCPZejOD96yLEvvK9P8iRi8kvjAQaNiyxLBkmmt4XdiPlvBENzqtEPaYjUBneK0ty7gEY67yGP8d9a4QEimmaWUmtDT9IgaAMwyKZVgB6wnnKhNqbdPyF5M-BhWoaCRutLBESzpWAj2atmg-0cfcAcqMhLH6szeCb68eWi5PyEzDu8z1WtpHysFkQZtNut_t1Z3yNk7usVVYV4MCcrkK8mnN8zOACSZ77oTGrTqrOK2qRDbxXTUWVjD4M9d-4C6oha3FWiI_8NRcGTvxrFo_u5MRgdHpkSlciiqvLkYEuO84rkIT5iG_tDl2qT-pgBd4z7o79ORhkY755SgjF0FdM-EY5J3E4IU_p4FE2Fet_K5zpJ1eI2cg2ni9UA8O5GzJwX1MlSTwJPn7MrpGQz-RZzZcGjqxbxZ8Jg-udWWpnvSLiQYuUxh1nU19zYvJWq_4beA3OyXWxQCBUMh_aI40Vpmep6kiEUaOws20RVXMutMO_rLJhnL4MuJOjWJ0YhxHbMlzU=w800-h600-no


The intercooler reservoir and neoprene covering seat in there like a glove and close off the opening and fit perfectly.
5FnZPv3I3xuUbfW6Lx24n7cSfSTjy6yGuCiTFMuj8myo1yXAdPPTuOwEKgOZK4Gg4-b6Trcl9b7PAdLuEKYJ2QbxZee12OwNAFjYQGlPIkBxEGQIZhjzlxJZK3Ub6xeg9nGUT2STOVLii_0x0QCXKxHW1FP16Kr-_7dPmzhypEZKxfzvBotIR9fzCJKKX7Z5-mBPhncQl1UmKF5DF3AVvgV5KKRsqiO19pxQewIWsfWkLO7qIAESvjyOPgvDK9Gzhty9mvUWPDhuGyKhveIO_KhO_xjqrZmsqzFDLNLXi8biTTAv2tvPVIpYP-LwQaKEolDDl-0eS_C2d6HxGRDbL-lKlGvfMCqH-r_B52eQendFwMCBqTvbWFTPxr9FpWZEPdSmu3QE2wU9bNduaFahdj_BzjV-8A_VJBoGL6mqNANIk43wvqXYwnGvnwc-QTXj2Dii_RSB5WJ37xClS7b2O7SIGosqzlpZbHlJP-kQFi_Dg-JuoM5ZLu_WNL4f1CpPf02OxEdsZiYDvuw69Rv6Cba7bu7Uh4WXElM_l3t9wQCL5D68T1eEM4PKdgk5LxVsBkdTjpvmLvOJy0wAXKgo6d5FeF6v_2A=w800-h600-no


To make the wiring very simple and clean I took the pigtail harness from the Mark 8 fan and the pigtail off my stock fan and wired them together to make a clean and neat jumper harness. The stock fans have two circuits for low and high speed, the Mark 8 is a single speed fan only. So my jumper harness ties both the low and high speed circuits together feeding the Mark 8 and in my tune I'll set both low and high to come on at the same time.
xT6M335sUx2eDwY-M82zv2FqhsCL68Au_oJLwzusfo-4wNtzYoRFc7NE8CHJzqu3-yhyRCoOWFG-fgHot5PyfCPBVClQ1gSEAeDhYoH2FaVibL6iO5z0WkyYNMr1NVTHFRv8UR6IG2ZcJQE21c8wve-fMPqFRKItfLCw4hYIlViY7wHx4LzBJa1WiHkUc5EQpozExdOw4vCmulmBzgVe1EIGAylP6NDhkq4DGkSbxeOLVH5Kek0aen0JfHwOyDPmIVx3vnk5exvYRyM30Ag9Qd3Q-NUxffLdRXlq7RZHeZJFUEBBcp6T812S-Iu3_2cKqqSIDrPA9l2aIDxN75pYYoCy4UT7KifDtK61_r_4-1TXmDHRA9R4rMMIR_Hi2dgIN1hHB0tF3dAUgJhfgsiuJyhnFFzjIRrdksUAmMb6h7Xv4QBiIioa0q06er6KYI-vPj5_k8gbJGGW9yeGEN9Le4M1dBJJbGeV3ppewdQ_c_sWvJYp2AS1m3hbvOrOhlXcXfJf4j5Aq4hCLoHbeH9chSCLiKKwRVzooDK0fbNOEIdwqG1K1dTW73ELcRccZRIiB6o1i01iBRcDXZmjg91PZ7uhLpacxOs=w800-h600-no


All installed and you can't even tell. Like stock but wickedly more powerful and with a shroud. Excited to try this out soon.
kP10jcfv9G9Eo1o3BCfypHfA2nQS6LmdyCRrm4pCxhFZXc60WgA-Bz0kngCxzX48hGNVvYHqbhKwmimdL78C7IY_bjnBvbvqnwhWos0BHYFBeqZyU3VQsK95ltBnULyTwb5fNlEgfr8J6VvBgqYOk1J1qaNfdg-_uGqvWBGgA8V3NAp8OdWNhqkbLVPaozHvrc-QCS3WQte0Uy0ysVQT83Kgb8wv6N7_ax-vK53o11T_sVRbz5xM98e76j5FtYIlVLKOcKfIkCywqS5BnvfoB38B9fbnBKAnFcd7BE7YKelSuroiYD4HFlsJe3B3oBN9g_GswfDX5oyKsYTkdYH0cFvQP8_PxnUqLqHSjbtFGqcsBEI-_PPI-pjTJH4VI59M7wy08DMeKx4Vo2RCsbRCT8zoEmIol9XZ4mLGZNo4cg-0tXuG2vfFB8hRi6sK111GaZBXkoz9XKNzY5C1oqUynlhroxBDRNCZ89DkijHfHmsyEK2mBdxKbYCurP8aGDA5H84h8zOXN828N7BJXAK4vrfIxPgElJw9VRvozsZD7XQI-2r7U_FvviVxI_vr1wpTV5Hgs9zZgmpqSQL_8BKIpZnxPXuJU8E=w800-h600-no
 
Last edited:

GodStang

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
14,719
Location
Aiken, SC
Very nice! I have had a Mark 8 fan sitting to go in for about 8 years now just never could get the layout right. With this info I may be good. Thanks for the great write up!!

Have you tested its cooling capabilities yet?
 
Last edited:

hotcobra03

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
7,461
Location
poteet,texas
How was the fan blade attached..

I was thinking of this fan..seen 1 at junk yard but was gone when I went back.

I went with a murry fan oem..its bolted to motor..where Motorcraft has a clip.

wonder if just the extra finns on blade would help
 

DSG2003Mach1

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
15,904
Location
Central Fl
cant wait to see the results, Im looking into fan options for my Mach as well with the big ass procharger intercooler up front and being so damn hot in FL.

How is it mounted? Is it sitting in the clips at the bottom and then did you put something through the top edge of the radiator to the shroud?

Im assuming you picked up a used OEM fan somewhere? My concern is just how old they are at this point...not sure if any of the aftermarket replacements are as big of an upgrade.

the jumper harness is great, keeping it nice and clean. The extra power draw of the fan wont be too much for the stock setup on our cars?

cant wait to see some numbers!
 
Last edited:

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
Hey Guys,

Here's a few pics to try and aid how it was secured in there.

OK look at the pic below. See the arrow pointing to the two bolts that come all the way through the radiator there with nuts on the end? (right side of pic). Well the shroud grabs over those on both the top and bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. I circled the location in red.
Also notice the two zip ties. I drilled a small hole in the shroud and radiator. One of the holes/slots already existed in the radiator and I only needed to drill the second one. Honestly the radiator was in so snug I didn't even need these zip ties. They were just for piece of mind.
pBc9xeqSiLCR1HLmJERU4SlQvYgKYiNOXuyXV163f5pg-YoTdg7SvOkfqwxpRKuKMfrDPSx4M06ug-FdgdxJaR4xiKfMkIIG7lbpHo2E-x3OfhuO_BDG4zvK9XOVT9SRdxTiD_nYQB1aGkLI7XnJeZEFGT_IEshhDKryDDgYz4fXdDg1VjAkCW-CIPBdjEzcEbjTglx5QkPRCdBRxGH4xvrZT8KnUo0fznSMRAOBd_wlovio7EWafxPt6t3rbwWKlBrsFrcUPxTrjRyjDO96AClIK5Mo-tgqjYF5EMSbRjkjEhpBefY2wCWBcLj17ciPvNowuk5UXMJ7bL3W1gPiVus7cLWwN8RaCvZ38GG3qmeXFsP49HgM7I2BC4f5p4LNFeqnDO1XlpWldh48K_Zs7DJizmVnFA_WaVZ3lcI6u33vO4GUPvBuWp7X98pug-mBWZcAegUNAxPIxV9UiyX7xtJ6jKTglYCnYn53jwJ46dDgTvRnt_o6cuzDQl9sNs2eYHPdj2GK6sxOiouTWTid82YrRkptY-sYbmBPyJkwUZbH3r8S2NMhCHxfqJqnlY01w5hQbM8tecrDIJowqow6V5RTxZ1PBDo=w974-h730-no


This next pic is looking top driver's side corner next to the battery. The arrow is pointing to a tab I shaved down only a certain amount and left a piece sticking up. I did that because when I re-install the engine coolant reservoir it snugs right against that and holds the shroud/fan in place.
diG04KNW2hRDIEEFbNQhD9IHTBCjMYjZyjfgwjfttYmtpkOGDeKE0bqbcoP-cGakqyZXQkxuQ5RCthFZbb8QVn9tGl-C0k1XM3suoecjG--jO-1xPf0gB3pjhPUrkUoDTkYlBtJmSc_eL-090T3I2wLaE60mwTyhSIxBMlH-G1DrAIHwE-0ZhEhnyrNoqcKIfmWH4qiZX0ShFn2C8KxWw6TRUFcRVWNoQsBIdwcnlmDuXWkoX5S9XQhUQUiCOQ77Y__bFNgrhVIK8VCTln1uYi_PYptTqusfyXvMkHDuR9OvdBoMeR6-wIE6639DXJy3fsakkCaQt6lX8TIxHjbxlIbDpquyrQ8GvR1ZL5v7agk0QisuIjUGYH7umgmzlK-hztMqC0lqy-lijKUG2HNJjS1KDNbw1Efjvf3qwIEXubeKlG006tCJ0q56TyOfBF1NAThAbHvvh6s50GBTVQnbWjWYjRKK1lTwgAJ8rCqtxv3vxev0VKACteNvNTivmFOu-iRC3MwmkzJ7jl4tsSLEdr11-WHqlyDiYD3ZI9jHSYjhFfPj8z1IWDghAytlAdK7ph5c-a2BKZ8H_jqAUiRZV_jXv9zwg3U=w974-h730-no


While it's hard to tell here the ABS module motor has a slot in the fan where the motor slides in. That prevents the fan from going anywhere as well. Also see the arrow pointing to the A/C hose there that's bent like a U shape? That hose flexes out and presses hard enough on the fan that it pinches it in place lightly. Enough so that you need to pull the a/c line back and hold it out of the way when sliding the fan in and out as to not damage the fins on the radiator. The combo of all those pressure points, shroud hanging over those bolts on top and bottom, as well as my two added zip ties it's in solid.
cEka4PQR4SMWUM_9-21zteMxHi6ysIdtylElRA7gkQ024Y6cEt9ZeS5Ghy9R51lDQbrbazZISnEbjC2vRi7jUniPlgOygBF0PExgoajH-x5NGKmtJ4o2ExfOL_JOl0cpNJYgjHqE5yNQbssaDU9iKpFLPnL7u7SLTR8yRCL9av4Su5bww22qBPB7llxxEhw-2h-xedwLnulRIEJLXDueb07VifJLVg0ucRZ6DM1IR8QaWfGtVYhBjWEKL1ByVDQzOvgFVQBtstGJGEkL81R82fOaDYaujK0w1G3VlgolUeAsl3xgY-67XNR2UyhVXJ1kZC7iLGh6JwMsKL-SRuefPU_0yRuM1xy7pzr76X9AmeLcUtty5yJ1YdbUjgXuxVka0FP06Yi4H4XubUFpJQL5bs1I4osf0ojmm7ygaMzyreJJ2arMPQpvZZtdcmijFzDhbr7dmfBS909MtiQzNn0W-orbFgXyRdPKAZhd1JFGBDosmNpEYAQGKg52bWfqFi_hZXHXzjl2dtTGX1ns8XmkWf5Qx-9jelxjR3QVHIZpsPxa2WmOkmo5hl1nXNNWiPF3BvTDwqCXZsBPTbxmvEgnKLYhud-gydY=w974-h730-no


I don't have numbers yet. Just got this in. After I get some miles with some hot weather and a/c with killer chiller going etc. I'll report back.

Someone mentioned concern about current draw. I had a similar concern and that's why I tied in both the low and high speed circuits together to feed the fan. Probably over kill but it's a single speed fan anyways.
 
Last edited:

MG0h3

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
13,683
Location
El Paso, TX
This was a very common route for fox guys.

I ran one on my turbo fox and it did great. It's been a lot of years, but I remember reading that the only drawback was the initial current draw at startup was quite high. To combat this, a lot of us ran a module that would ramp in the amps at startup. Pretty nice unit with an integrated adjustable stat.

Sounds like something you could design Malcolm, if the need arises.
 

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
This was a very common route for fox guys.

I ran one on my turbo fox and it did great. It's been a lot of years, but I remember reading that the only drawback was the initial current draw at startup was quite high. To combat this, a lot of us ran a module that would ramp in the amps at startup. Pretty nice unit with an integrated adjustable stat.

Sounds like something you could design Malcolm, if the need arises.

I'm very familiar with the fan controller module you're talking about. I actually ran them on my V8 Rangers many years ago. I was not a fan and maybe it was just the type of aftermarket fans I had. The controllers use pulse width modulation to control fan speed. In other words they pulse power on and off very rapidly to create seemly smooth slow and steady speeds and they can ramp the fan speed up or down as needed.

The problem I found was that the pulsing motion over time would cause the locking pin that held the fan blades to the center shaft to tear up and eventually fail. Think of non stop jack hammer type action on the motor against the fan blades. Now if the blades slide onto the shaft with a spline or had a very heavy duty locking pin you're probably never know the difference which is potentially the case with the Mark 8 fans.

Some usage and miles will tell if I have any issues with start up current making a fan controller necessary.
 

GodStang

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
14,719
Location
Aiken, SC
What radiator are you running? I think why I bailed on using one years ago was my radiator was too thick and would not fit with fan. But that was 8 years ago so hard to remember for sure.
 

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
What radiator are you running? I think why I bailed on using one years ago was my radiator was too thick and would not fit with fan. But that was 8 years ago so hard to remember for sure.

Stock radiator. If I had a thicker radiator in there I'd have to do more trimming and also re-route the hose that drops off the coolant cross over down to the thermostat housing to go around the lower pulley and not in front of it.
I used to run a thicker radiator years ago but it was more hassle than it was worth and I eventually swapped back to stock.
 

SlowSVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,272
Location
Los Angeles
IvHQOWp2NmZtHXGts40DQ72eox_OPoXsUS3WEFT-9EBPCiPRe95zUyjMdKDKGfzgk0aoaRVdwWh84mQIPYqw5Tpoww7mmxHhb6OX4RNe1psa1z_rWHYa748sjFpBUBZIO5vb9eaAId8SXdtv5xxdz_K-2FIqeZe4RbUHhzVzquRPrHgPHE6zao0L4rOli6qz3NhC_oaUmUi7ayWt6zz282h_wu6mQRZzwL_F6eOb8_rG1fAhuJuazIVS3mGX1v1fZZQf8y8JfR_cJzEW4Fa8A2SdSXiu7Idf8NgiTmmPxP5Zi6sdxM55tC3QFOo60kcgapSYeWQK4H27PUNVCPsCl3dVsGg4anTTDsreQVKAb_pFgFCPQc5miNtJQNYaOFlI8wXHxLMAVI1mVa91mLPYlvEqbc0f2kaQv62ZPoEUR77jBTxs1dZVlk3vi-8oUsfRBIxQ-40WnYkG2Q4O6cV4LY2tHF2QcmQ8USAvkAutNF89dtI5HzPC1VhlzBaWMJIz3z7daGe-Yclz8BRZBqRcW2NLM5x42yQPJz3FcIOvkdSARSUJbDjg1FiG-NwESqXvQyZFiGSn1KEtbOARohRYcEEPHsCmcsY=w800-h600-no


Malcolm, nice work on the install as always.

One thing to keep in mind is this will work better when the system is cooled when the fan is needed at a stop or in slow moving traffic. At high speed the shrouding will restrict the air thru the rad due to the reduced open area behind (for optimal flow volume it should have the same or more open area behind rad as in front of it. Air can do unexpected things and I could be wrong here testing could prove this fan assembly is more effective at speed but shrouding is only useful when the fan is running and will likely impede flow at high speed.

If I recall your running E85 (which should cool things down) and high compression (which will make it run hotter). Are you using the factory oil-to-water cooler? Switching to an oil-to-air cooler will eliminate the system dumping the heat into the rad making it more effective. A dual row rad may help by doubling the cooling area and the volume of the water where the coolant will spend more time exposed to the cooling area. In theory this should cool better but sometimes it doesn't work out that way so don't take any of this as gospel.

At low speed this should work better but at high speed I cant see how a shroud will help. But in the end what matters is how the effective the systems works. Have you driven the car yet to see if it had brought down the engine temp? Should be interesting to see the results.
 

MG0h3

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2014
Messages
13,683
Location
El Paso, TX
Ive always understood that the shroud ensures that the air that the fan is moving is all going through the radiator that than through the path of least resistance.
 

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
One thing to keep in mind is this will work better when the system is cooled when the fan is needed at a stop or in slow moving traffic. At high speed the shrouding will restrict the air thru the rad due to the reduced open area behind (for optimal flow volume it should have the same or more open area behind rad as in front of it. Air can do unexpected things and I could be wrong here testing could prove this fan assembly is more effective at speed but shrouding is only useful when the fan is running and will likely impede flow at high speed.

My experience has been that cruising on the highway at speed does not cool as well as you'd think. I don't know if it's because of the air slip streaming around the car or why exactly it happens but it happens. I have only really noticed this in mid summer hot heat where your cooling system is taxed. In both my turbo Honda and the Cobra I observed hotter temps cruising on the highway. On the Honda's ECU you could control at what speeds the fan turned on and off. I had it set to shut off over 55 mph because logic told me the highway speeds will cool it just fine. The Honda BTW was running an unshrouded fan. Cruising at 70 mph in 95+ heat with the a/c the Honda would start to over heat. I'd exit to side roads and temps would come back in check as the fans did their thing. I adjusted the tune to keep the fans on to 90+ MPH and my cruising at 70 mph on highway was fixed. The fans are indeed very effective at highway speeds.

Now a couple weeks ago in the Cobra when it was super hot out and I was cruising around testing things I noticed the exact same thing. It would start to get overly warm on the highway but back road cruising was keeping somewhat in check. It led me to believe our cars shut the fans off at highway speeds but I don't know that for a fact yet. I don't see any speed control in the tune where I can adjust that either. This is going to take some testing and experimenting to figure out.

If I recall your running E85 (which should cool things down) and high compression (which will make it run hotter). Are you using the factory oil-to-water cooler? Switching to an oil-to-air cooler will eliminate the system dumping the heat into the rad making it more effective. A dual row rad may help by doubling the cooling area and the volume of the water where the coolant will spend more time exposed to the cooling area. In theory this should cool better but sometimes it doesn't work out that way so don't take any of this as gospel.

Yes I'm running E85 exclusively now with the high compression. Previously I used to switch back and forth between pump gas and E85 all the time and honestly I never saw the slightest bit of temp difference between the two. I think the engine is just to big and puts out to much power/heat to have any noticeable difference. Now on the turbo honda, which I used to daily, I did notice in the winter the temp gauge would be down lower on E85 than pump so what you're saying definitely has merit. But that motor was so tiny and its heat output was so little when cruising out of boost.

Yes I'm using the factory oil to water cooler. I had considered installing a remote air oil cooler but scrapped the plan once I started installing for a couple reasons. Number one was the complexity of piecing such a system together properly with a thermostat to allow oil to get up to working temps before diverting the bulk of the flow through the cooler. I actually purchased everything from Summit Racing and started the install. Such an abundance of connections, plus the remote oil filter, new block and connection for the coolant hoses etc. I could have made it work but honestly it added so much complexity and cost and I really didn't feel like I would be gaining a whole lot after speaking to guys with remote air oil coolers and what sort of temp differences they saw.

As for a thicker radiator, been there done that. Was not a fan. Maybe I should try again some day but when I tried it a few years ago my car actually ran hotter in general and especially in the hotter weather. I got a lot of feedback that I need to build better shrouding to force the air through the denser/thicker radiator, I needed a larger air dam below, more powerful fan to get the air through and a host of other reasons. Maybe my radiator just sucked, not sure. I went back to stock and it worked out much better.
Back in my V8 Ranger days the thicker radiators always did wonders so perhaps it was just something with the air flow in the Cobra.

No info or numbers yet. Need to get some seat time and will report back. Before installing the fan I just did the redneck flow bench test. Hold fans and hookup to battery lol. It was intense but I found the better fan :) lol
 

SlowSVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,272
Location
Los Angeles
Somethings does not seem right here your car should not be over heating just cruising on the high way nor should it need a fan at speed. Are you running a Killer Chiller as well?
 

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
Somethings does not seem right here your car should not be over heating just cruising on the high way nor should it need a fan at speed. Are you running a Killer Chiller as well?

Oh yes sorry I thought I explained in the first post. Let me give more details. Very hot day, 98F or so, humid. 2.9 Whipple creates a lot more heat than a stock eaton. After driving around a while and everything's heat soaked and fully heated I'm seeing IAT2 temps of mid 170s to 189 according to data logs. That's just cruising around too, maybe a little gas on the highway on ramps is about it but no WOT driving. Car is running around 205 to 215 or so. Varies with speeds, driving conditions etc.

Turn Killer Chiller on and IAT2s came all the way down to mid 120s and saw highs around mid 140s. Of course all that heat gets dumped in front of the radiator so the coolant temps went up into the 230s and eventually cruising down the road with interior a/c on full blast, KC going of course, 244 F. That's when I called it quits, turned off the a/c and limped home and shut it down.

Sitting at lights or stopped in traffic yielded the highest temps. Light to moderate cruising on back roads was the coolest, highway cruising was second highest temps.

This overly hot day aside, I've noticed in general the cooling system is pretty taxed with the killer chiller running non stop hence decided on a fan upgrade.
 

SlowSVT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
8,272
Location
Los Angeles
Malcolm, something is way wrong here. The Killer Chiller should be delivering sub-ambient IA2's. All the needles are way north of where they should be those temps are what road racers are experiencing. Maybe your water pump is slipping, thermostat is stuck or installed backwards, bad head gasket, excessive sand clogging the rad or the AC condenser. Running the Killer Chiller is no different as when the AC is on which is what the system is designed to handle, it may cause the temp to rise a little but not enough to overheat it. The MK8 fan at this point is a band-aid.

I would shine a light thru the rad and condenser to see how much sand is wedged into the fins (compressed air should dislodge most of it). Any change your rad is partly clogged? Are a lot of the fins bent? If the contact area between the fins and cooling tubes are badly corroded the aluminum oxide will act as an insulator (I had that problem on my old Subaru Legacy). A new rad may be your answer, it will certainly work better then that been in use for 12 years.

For grins I would run 60 grit sand paper across the water pump pulley to rough it up to see if there is a belt slippage problem. Perhaps the impeller is damaged or lose on the shaft. This is not likely but stranger things have happened.

Inspect, test or replace the thermostat.

Take a leakdown test maybe the head gasket is introducing combustion gasses into the cooling system.

At idle your engine should run no hotter then a bone stock GT especially one getting 40% more fuel dumped into the engine that happens to be alcohol.
 

MalcolmV8

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
7,353
Location
Tampa, FL
Remember this was a really hot day. I don't think there's much of anything wrong with the car. I've owned it since brand new so fairly familiar with how it behaves in hot weather.
Certainly doesn't hurt to check radiator fins and a/c condensor for clogging etc. I typically only drive in fair weather so the car's really clean in that respect.
Honestly all the heat appears to be coming from that Whipple turning hard and constantly compressing air and generating a ton of heat.

I seem to recall back in the ported eaton days, about 10 years ago, seeing 220F coolant temps driving home from work in mid summer was not uncommon. So seeing 240 now with a killer chiller and a whipple dumping a ton of heat doesn't seem like much of a stretch at all.

BTW radiator is not 12/13 years old. Stock unit sprung a leak a few years back, switched to a heavy duty unit since stock ones were discontinued and then about 3 years ago I scored a brand new old stock from a warehouse and got a brand new OEM radiator.
 

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
Established Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2005
Messages
21,125
Location
Cali
Since it's a single speed fan I imagine a relay could be used to power it with the original power wire being used to trigger the relay. If current draw is a concern.
 

cj428mach

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
7,609
Location
Kansas
Oh yes sorry I thought I explained in the first post. Let me give more details. Very hot day, 98F or so, humid. 2.9 Whipple creates a lot more heat than a stock eaton. After driving around a while and everything's heat soaked and fully heated I'm seeing IAT2 temps of mid 170s to 189 according to data logs. That's just cruising around too, maybe a little gas on the highway on ramps is about it but no WOT driving. Car is running around 205 to 215 or so. Varies with speeds, driving conditions etc.

Turn Killer Chiller on and IAT2s came all the way down to mid 120s and saw highs around mid 140s. Of course all that heat gets dumped in front of the radiator so the coolant temps went up into the 230s and eventually cruising down the road with interior a/c on full blast, KC going of course, 244 F. That's when I called it quits, turned off the a/c and limped home and shut it down.

Sitting at lights or stopped in traffic yielded the highest temps. Light to moderate cruising on back roads was the coolest, highway cruising was second highest temps.

This overly hot day aside, I've noticed in general the cooling system is pretty taxed with the killer chiller running non stop hence decided on a fan upgrade.

That sounds crazy hot for being on e85 at cruise. Any chance a radiator hose is collapsing?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top