Maximum Motorsports S197 K-Member

Tob

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Well, I'm 49 going on Grandpa myself. My motivation comes from the constant reminder to try to take advantage of every moment while I can.

I've got a '13 TR6060 in my possession as well. Is yours equipped with a pump and if so do you plan on plumbing a transmission cooler?
 

Catmonkey

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You know, I really don't know the answer to that and hadn't even thought to ask. We're supposed to meet up over the weekend. If it does, is there a future write-up I can expect to see?
 

Tob

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You know, I really don't know the answer to that and hadn't even thought to ask. We're supposed to meet up over the weekend. If it does, is there a future write-up I can expect to see?

Man, I didn't plan on it so I don't know. I will say that the factory cooler and lines are bent just right to keep things tight. It's a nice piece and I'd grab it if you can.

Sweet Jesus.

Hey Drew. Long time no see. I was going to post up at BMO but didn't. Glad to see it caught your eye.

You've done a great job with your car!
 

rdanzy

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Tob,

It appears that with using the MM aluminum blocks and brackets to attach the motor mounts that the motor mounts could be installed under the bracket for lowering the engine. The motor mounts (After Market) would have to have the present mounting holes enlarged to fit over the weld nuts and a support flange fabricated for supporting the underside of the motor mounts. The bolts to mount the motor mounts could be threaded from either the top and act as a stud with a nut to fasten the mount or threaded underneath to fasten the motor mount. Shims would be placed between the mount and the metal bracket to adjust the drop in the motor height. From your experience with the MM k member does this seem practical. It does not appear that the engine mount brackets would interfere with the aluminum blocks if the engine is lowered as I have described. Also, do you recall if there is 1 1/4 inch of vertical clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the k member.
 

Tob

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Roger, I never considered studying the MM K-member from the perspective of lowering the factory engine mounts - and I should have. The point was raised to me from someone at Maximum that there is very little room between the rack and the pan. I think I'm the first (?) to be using a GT500 engine with this K-member so I'm not sure if the 5.4/5.8 would have any more (or less) room than the typical Coyote engine would where the rack nears the pan. If there was enough room there, as well as anywhere else where things usually get tight, I think it would merit further investigation regarding the ability to lower the engine. I assume you are asking because of clearance requirements between the hood and possible use of a physically larger (or taller) supercharger. I could see some different dimensioned angles (that bolt to the aluminum blocks) being utilized that would lower the mount. I understand what you are thinking of in terms of slipping the mount plate under as opposed to over the mount angles to decrease engine height but I'm not a big fan of that method were there to be a fastener failure, however unlikely that may be. I think reworking the welded angle assemblies would be preferable.

Without getting the car up in the air again (I will eventually), it does look as though there may be some room. If you click on the following photo and zoom you get a better look at rack to pan clearance.


zIMG_5874-Edit.jpg



These photos give you a look at available room in terms of relocating the mount lower. Reworking the angle may mean trying to avoid the flat plate face that runs beyond the aluminum block face.


IMG_5532.jpg



IMG_5550.jpg



IMG_5526.jpg



If 1-1/4" of clearance is what you'd need I don't think its there (in addition to necessary minimum clearance dimensions). I suppose you could shim the blocks down (between the frame and the block top face) but that opens up another can of worms.
 

rdanzy

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Tob,
Yes, the clearance is for a bigger blower but I wanted to also lower the engine for possible better handling. I have motor mounts with 1/2 drop. Thanks for noting the oil pan to rack clearance. I will check on the oil pan to steering rack clearance. Bolts to handle the load without failure should not be that difficult as presently the drivers side bolts are in tension under load. The weld nuts could be drilled for larger bolts. Great post and thanks for the info.
 

Catmonkey

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Shipping is expected early December. That's hunting season for me. Thinking mid January before anything happens. I'd really like to get the transmission done before then, but work is crazy at the moment, it always is. I looked at all the pics in your photobucket account and it sold me. You should get a commission. Did you get their bump steer tool or did you take a different approach in setting that up?
 

rdanzy

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I just order mine along with the bumpsteer gauge. If want you can borrow the gauge. I am way up North in Pineville.
Shipping is expected early December. That's hunting season for me. Thinking mid January before anything happens. I'd really like to get the transmission done before then, but work is crazy at the moment, it always is. I looked at all the pics in your photobucket account and it sold me. You should get a commission. Did you get their bump steer tool or did you take a different approach in setting that up?
 

Tob

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Shipping is expected early December. That's hunting season for me. Thinking mid January before anything happens. I'd really like to get the transmission done before then, but work is crazy at the moment, it always is. I looked at all the pics in your photobucket account and it sold me. You should get a commission. Did you get their bump steer tool or did you take a different approach in setting that up?

Good luck hunting and with your transmission swap. Regarding the Photobucket photos, I'm always trying to improve conveying what I see from behind the lens. Knowing that this was a first look for many I wanted to be sure that I captured the essence of this piece, that being, a seriously robust piece of hardware. Plus, I had promised to share my feedback only with Maximum but I had hoped Chuck would allow me to share everything here (eventually) so I wanted to do it right. My effort had to be commensurate with the hardware. When Chuck gave me the go ahead, I was trying to come up with a theme or style to use when photographing, so I asked him how he would best describe his company. His reply was "Making parts that perform and look cool." Hence the industrial motif for those pictures.

Regarding bumpsteer, I did not measure it. We discussed it, along with home alignment techniques, etc. I went with Maximum's general minimum recommendation, which was to get the rod end as low as I could on their bumpsteer kit. I initially had it where Maximum's bumpsteer kit directions suggest (if not actually measuring it) which was a little higher up. Chuck then noted that those directions didn't take into account the new K-member and it's revised geometry and recommended moving it down. To be honest, my 49 year old ass-o-meter couldn't detect undesirable toe changes with it at either elevation. I'm sure that when the K-member is shipped it'll come with detailed instructions but I did the install with some notes from Luka along with some back and forth email with Chuck. That said, optimizing the steering linkage is definitely a good idea if that's what you're considering.


I just order mine along with the bumpsteer gauge. If want you can borrow the gauge. I am way up North in Pineville.

I'm pumped that you two are stepping forward. Everybody does things differently and I'm eager to see how both of you approach it. Sharing the gauge would be nice to see.

Then when the SLA comes out....:rockon:
 

Catmonkey

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I read the instructions for that gauge and hoped there was a simpler method to setting up the tie rod ends for bump steer.
 

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