McLeod RXT Install Advise / Pivot Stud

[SilverGT1]

2003 GT
T56
McLeod RXT
McLeod Lightened Steel FW
Stock fork
Stock Pivot Stud

I did a T56 swap. The transmission came with an McLeod RXT. It is installed and working properly. However, I have clutch pedal releasing at the top of the stroke. I want this closer to the bottom / stock release point.

I have read post after post about this issue (now that I have the issue, wasn't aware before install). I can't get my head around how shortening the pivot stud addresses this problem. Anyway, have read that you want the clutch fork near the middle of the opening and possibly a few degrees toward the back from center.

Opening measures ~4.5" (looks smaller measured in picture)
Leading edge of fork now measures ~2.625"

Am I shooting for the leading edge of the fork to be somewhere around 2.25"?

Does adjustment of the pivot stud = 1:1 in distance change? Do I run the pivot in 0.375" (9.53mm) and get a 0.375" change at the opening? Seems like a whole lot compared to the 0.160" (4mm) - 0.200" (5mm) that others are posting.

Trying to get a real good understanding so I only have to drop the trans one more time. With my torque arm installed, it is a pain in the butt.

 

[Slow 99]

I don't think you can adjust a twin disk that much, from my research twin disks just release at the top, same with my rst

 

[SilverGT1]

There are a lot of threads about changing the release point by adjusting ball stud. I just need to know how much to take off and a point to which I can measure to know that I am in the zone. I do not want to have to take this in and out several times to get my answer via trial and error. I am certain that many other have already done this and can guide me to the correct height I should be shooting for. If worse comes to worse, I will just start around lowering 4.5mm. I just wish I knew what I am looking for externally as a check / reference point...

 

[P49Y-CY]

here's my .02 as i have monkeyed with these things back and forth in both my terminators with rst/rxt's. imo each car is different and the correct adjustment depends on many factors such as fw height, cable, fw adjuster, etc.

you say that the car is together and working properly, and that all you want is a lower pedal release point, is that correct?

if that is the case, perhaps you can just play with the cable adjustment at first without dropping the trans again. it looks like you have an aftermarket adjustable cable - so have you tried to loosen it yet? that might lower the pedal engagement enough for you

in both of my terminators i needed the mcleod 16912 to get enough play with the rst/rxt. by shortening the pivot ball you move the fork towards the rear of the car

 

[SilverGT1]

I currently only have enough tension on the cable for some preload. I’ll try loosening it some today and see if that gets me anywhere. I have an adjustable ball stud that is supposed to be here tomorrow.

I guess I am looking at this wrong? I keep think that the fork where it connects to the cable is supposed to move forward. But I think what really needs to happen is that it needs to move back to the rear?? Still not 100% on how this makes the pedal release lower.

 

[MG0h3]

Cable adjustment will not change engagement in relation to pedal height.

My car came with stock ball and RXT. The high engagement took a bit of getting used to, but I eventually loved it.

FWIW, the discs are actually starting to engage right off the floor even with the stock ball. Let the clutch out slowly in your garage and you’ll hear it.

Anyways, got 14k out of it and put an RXT1200 in. Got the adj ball and shortened it @5mm. I did have to clearance the face of the trans (magnum) and the fork a bit. You’ll see the contact points.

I didn’t do this for pedal height or engagement, I did it for clutch life.

My RXT would’ve gone longer, but as it wore and the fingers moved back, it sandwiched the TOB and fork up against the trans face. This left constant pressure on the PP fingers and it slipped.

Get a firewall adj and a stock cable. Heard nothing but bad out of those adjustable cables. Or at least do that if your cable breaks.

TOB adj: just enough pressure to have TOB spinning with no pedal pressure. I adj mine while running and set it so that with just my index finger, I can push the fork BACK and the TOB stops. Let go and cable tension brings it back into fingers and it’s spinning.


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[SilverGT1]

Loosened the cable up per MGoh3’s suggestion. It did help a little. I can probably live with this for a while. Ultimately, I’ll get my adjustable ball stud in.

As a side note, my car kicks ass now. First time I’ve really had it out since the new rear gears, new trans, new Brembos calipers up front and 43mm calipers rear with cobra rotors all around. Also added a 4 cat 2.5” magnaflow x-pipe (for CA smog). It is way quite now so I’ll be shopping for some new mufflers. I’m sure I am way below the track sound limits now.

The T56 is a real treat. No more 2nd gear grind / notchiness. Just smooooth shifting.

I am amazed at how easy the RXT engages. I was expecting some chatter or insta-clamping but nope, real nice engagement and super light pedal feel. I probably wouldn’t get one just because of price if it hadn’t come with the trans but it is super nice.

 

[testorossa1989]

I measured mine pretty dang close to factory

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