McLeod RXT owners, Pedal heigh/release point questions

[DHGTerminator]

Hey guys, just curious as to how the RXT owners like the feel of them in the sense of release point and such.

With the stock clutch and quadrant, the release point was very close to the floor, which I got used to, and liked, despite the hard stock clutch. But, alas, after taking 500 ft/lbs over and over, and a couple visits to the track, the stocker had said it's goodbyes.

Fast forward a couple months, I pull the trigger on the 26-spline route, with the Fiore Quad and Adjuster, and I LOVE the feeling of the actual clutch itself, but I am not entirely happy with the new release point. It seems that the release point is now above the brake, and it just feels unnatural. Have any fellow RXT owners found a way around this, or anything to make it not seem so bad? (or am I just crazy? :bash

I've been looking around a bit, and i'm very close to pulling the trigger on the setup that this guy uses (might require a login):
How to lower your clutch pedal for quicker, firmer, shifts and performance driving..

Anywho, lemme know your guys' opinions on this, as i'm in a debuckle.

 

[lxhatch302]

I've always ran mine up towards the very top. It's easier to race the car because your going all the way to the floor to shift...

 

[Savn4Mods]

It has taken a little getting used to, but I agree with lxhatch302 in that it is better for power shifting because the clutch releases quicker when you stab the clutch pedal.

 

[cobracide]

The only thing you need to adjust the clutch catch point is a firewall adjuster. Fiore micro-click works great and has the largest adjustment range.

Fiore 96-04 Mustang Micro-Click Firewall Adjuster [MC100] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

 

[sonic cobra]

Same issue for me. I actually prefer the clutch to grab right off the floor. With the new RXT it grabs closer to the top and it was uncomfortable to say the least. I'm getting used to it now. I have the fiore firewall adjuster but haven't tried adjusting it yet. My fear is that without the adjustable pivot ball any adjustment might just add slack into the cable. Like I said I'm getting used to it.

 

[DHGTerminator]

The only thing you need to adjust the clutch catch point is a firewall adjuster. Fiore micro-click works great and has the largest adjustment range.

Fiore 96-04 Mustang Micro-Click Firewall Adjuster [MC100] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

I have this, but I've been told these clutches need a small amount of pre-load, which you wouldn't get just by solely adjusting the firewall adjuster. Not on that, but when I adjusted the firewall adjuster the clutch pedal would rattle while driving because of the slack in the cable.

 

[cobracide]

I have this, but I've been told these clutches need a small amount of pre-load, which you wouldn't get just by solely adjusting the firewall adjuster.

Why not? Please explain your definition of preload. Preloading takes up the slack and tightens the cable. That's exactly what a FW adjuster does.

Not on that, but when I adjusted the firewall adjuster the clutch pedal would rattle while driving because of the slack in the cable.

So you're adjusting the pedal to where you want and you have slack in the cable?

A preloaded clutch will have NO slack in the cable.

 

[DHGTerminator]

Why not? Please explain your definition of preload. Preloading takes up the slack and tightens the cable. That's exactly what a FW adjuster does.

Pre-load as in Pre-loading the TOB similar to what the stock quadrant does. I know that's what a FW adjuster does, but it's recommended that you leave the firewall adjuster where there is a minor amount of preload on the TOB, not where the pedal feels best.

So you're adjusting the pedal to where you want and you have slack in the cable?

A preloaded clutch will have NO slack in the cable.

Yes, the engagement point of this RXT is literally above/right at the brake pedal, so it is very uncomfortable for me to drive it. If I adjuster the FW adjuster to where the release point feels great, I won't have the small amount of preload needed on the TOB, and thus i'll have so much slack in the cable that the pedal will literally rattle when driving when my foot isn't on the clutch (from bouncing up and down). So I referenced that thread to see if anyone sporting the RXT has done a similar set of mods and how it feels, at least if I go that route I know my clutch will engage below the brake pedal, which i'll be happy with, not to mention it would be nice to have the brake pedal and clutch pedal in the same zip code.

 

[sonic cobra]

Those are exactly my thoughts as well DHGTerminator, but i couldn't have stated it as clearly.
Unfortunately my Cobra is down for an engine rebuild so I will be on the sidelines for some time. Hope you find a solution to OUR problem.

 

[DHGTerminator]

Those are exactly my thoughts as well DHGTerminator, but i couldn't have stated it as clearly.
Unfortunately my Cobra is down for an engine rebuild so I will be on the sidelines for some time. Hope you find a solution to OUR problem.

Thanks bro, I think I may try the method listed in the thread I posted a link to and let it know you know where it gets me. Good luck with your build bro, been there, and am finally wrapping everything back together, totally worth it, no doubt! :beer:

 

[04sleeper]

The only thing you need to adjust the clutch catch point is a firewall adjuster.

This is completely wrong and is unfortunately what most people believe a firewall adjuster is for.

The firewall adjuster lets you adjust the position of the clutch fork from one side. The other side is controled by the pivot ball.

The firewall adjuster can help you adjust the Throw Out Bearing position in relation to the pressure plate.

The factory clutch quadrant has a spring/pawl adjuster that does this for you automatically with the factory set up. When you change to a different clutch, it can be stiffer and have a different thickness than the the OEM set up. So most buy a firewall adjuster because the clutch may be stiffer and not adjust properly.

The factory spring/pawl adjuster is what sets a certain amount of pre-load on the Throw Out Bearing. When you use a firewall adjuster, you have to "Manually" adjust this Pre-Load on the Throw Out Bearing because the aluminum quadrant and firewall djuster does away with the spring/pawl adjuster.

This is all the firewall adjuster is for. If you tighten the adjuster too much, it is like pushing in the clutch more. (Like riding the clutch) And the clutch is not going to hold because it is partially pushed in. This will lead to a slipping clutch and a worn out clutch really fast!

The only way to change where the pedal releases is to change the height of the pivot ball. If you want the pedal to release more towards the floor, then you need to "Shorten" the pivot ball. If you want it to release higher off the floor, then you need to "Lengthen" the pivot ball.

That or install Maximum Motorsports Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...age=product_info&cPath=50_163&products_id=502

Then you still need to go back and set a slight amount of Pre-Load on the Throw Out Bearing by adjusting the firewall adjuster. (Just like the factory)

Hope this helps.

 

[cobracide]

This is completely wrong and is unfortunately what most people believe a firewall adjuster is for.

The firewall adjuster lets you adjust the position of the clutch fork from one side. The other side is controled by the pivot ball.

The firewall adjuster can help you adjust the Throw Out Bearing position in relation to the pressure plate.

The factory clutch quadrant has a spring/pawl adjuster that does this for you automatically with the factory set up. When you change to a different clutch, it can be stiffer and have a different thickness than the the OEM set up. So most buy a firewall adjuster because the clutch may be stiffer and not adjust properly.

The factory spring/pawl adjuster is what sets a certain amount of pre-load on the Throw Out Bearing. When you use a firewall adjuster, you have to "Manually" adjust this Pre-Load on the Throw Out Bearing because the aluminum quadrant and firewall djuster does away with the spring/pawl adjuster.

This is all the firewall adjuster is for. If you tighten the adjuster too much, it is like pushing in the clutch more. (Like riding the clutch) And the clutch is not going to hold because it is partially pushed in. This will lead to a slipping clutch and a worn out clutch really fast!

The only way to change where the pedal releases is to change the height of the pivot ball. If you want the pedal to release more towards the floor, then you need to "Shorten" the pivot ball. If you want it to release higher off the floor, then you need to "Lengthen" the pivot ball.

That or install Maximum Motorsports Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster. Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster, 1994-04 [MMCL-7] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

Then you still need to go back and set a slight amount of Pre-Load on the Throw Out Bearing by adjusting the firewall adjuster. (Just like the factory)

Hope this helps.

Thx, great help and informative. I have adjusted throughout the range and you are dead on.

Unfortunately I am having issues with my clutch - transmission. No one seems to know how to set up a twin disc in NC of all places. What a joke.

 

[snakerider]

I have a rst my release point is right at the top also.

 

[ScottsdaleSnake]

I have an RST. Grab/release point is slightly below brake pedal. Stock pivot ball is used, as well. My firewall adjuster is adjusted slightly off the firewall...maybe like a half inch to an inch. I'm still in break-in miles, but there is a slight rubbing noise (can't think of the proper word to describe it) when off the clutch, but when I slightly press the clutch or completely press in the clutch it disappears. It is more noticeable in drive thru's or idling next to another car. I was told this is the TOB making contact with the pressure plate and it is normal, but I just installed all new parts (RST/FRPP TOB/Lethal sleeve/Fork). I expected the clutch to be silent when idling with this setup, but it's not any more quiet than my previous 30K mile Centerforce. Should I simply turn the firewall adjuster counter-clockwise (outward) to put slightly more pressure on the TOB? Thanks in advance.

 

[DHGTerminator]

I have an RST. Grab/release point is slightly below brake pedal. Stock pivot ball is used, as well. My firewall adjuster is adjusted slightly off the firewall...maybe like a half inch to an inch. I'm still in break-in miles, but there is a slight rubbing noise (can't think of the proper word to describe it) when off the clutch, but when I slightly press the clutch or completely press in the clutch it disappears. It is more noticeable in drive thru's or idling next to another car. I was told this is the TOB making contact with the pressure plate and it is normal, but I just installed all new parts (RST/FRPP TOB/Lethal sleeve/Fork). I expected the clutch to be silent when idling with this setup, but it's not any more quiet than my previous 30K mile Centerforce. Should I simply turn the firewall adjuster counter-clockwise (outward) to put slightly more pressure on the TOB? Thanks in advance.

You may try making your Firewall adjuster do a half-turn or a full-turn in either direction while the car is running and see if it still does it. You are supposed to have the TOB making light contact as 04Sleeper said. (I believe that is considered pre-load)

 

[ScottsdaleSnake]

You may try making your Firewall adjuster do a half-turn or a full-turn in either direction while the car is running and see if it still does it. You are supposed to have the TOB making light contact as 04Sleeper said. (I believe that is considered pre-load)

Thanks...I'll do that. Something I would like to point out is that you mentioned doing it with the car running...I was not aware that you should adjust the firewall knob when the car is running, but it makes complete sense...I've always adjusted it with the car off! Thanks again.

 

[DHGTerminator]

Thanks...I'll do that. Something I would like to point out is that you mentioned doing it with the car running...I was not aware that you should adjust the firewall knob when the car is running, but it makes complete sense...I've always adjusted it with the car off! Thanks again.

I'm not sure if that's what you're necessarily supposed to do, but if yours is doing it at idle it would be an easy way to eliminate that issue! Hope that does it for you, lemme know!

 

[ScottsdaleSnake]

I'm not sure if that's what you're necessarily supposed to do, but if yours is doing it at idle it would be an easy way to eliminate that issue! Hope that does it for you, lemme know!

Hey, it worked! Thanks! One thing I was wondering was that although I turned the adjuster outward (counter-clockwise) a few complete turns, my clutch engagement point didn't seem to change. I thought that turning outward raised the grabbing point, while turning inward lowered the point toward the floor...hmmm...

 

[DHGTerminator]

Hey, it worked! Thanks! One thing I was wondering was that although I turned the adjuster outward (counter-clockwise) a few complete turns, my clutch engagement point didn't seem to change. I thought that turning outward raised the grabbing point, while turning inward lowered the point toward the floor...hmmm...

Sounds like the adjuster was engaging the clutch too much, and needed adjustment to only have a bit of pre-load, where as it had alot more than needed. I'm glad that worked for you man! I'm gonna try and do the way I linked above then check back.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Interesting stuff in this thread, and a great in depth explanation from Kevin!:rockon::beer04sleeper).

I am probably going to buy one of these RTXs as soon as my stocker decides to give up.
I am pretty certain that along with the Fore adjuster, new steel TOB sleeve, new FRPP TOB, 26 spline input shaft , I am also going to install the LDC freeplay mod.

LDC Chicago Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit [LDC-FREEPLAY] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

I was wondering if any of you guys were running this yet?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/578512-what-ldc-freeplay-mod-clutch.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/670705-ldc-free-play-mod.html