It just takes some love. I removed my helper spring, changed to DOT 4 fluid, JPC clutch line, and i am shifting at 7500+. Granted, my car is a '13 and only has 18K miles on it, and only the last 5 or so have been with the CJ, so it may still just be a fairly spry factory clutch. I know it is not uncommon for people to have issues more often than I am.
~ Mod progression N/A
- Thread starter Nocturnal'14
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from what I understand is that you lose TQ down low. I do mainly city driving and usually hang out around 3-5k when driving for fun. 3 and under commuting. of course there are times when I go all the way up. to my knowledge the manifold doesn't wake up till 5500 or so. I just hate to lose low end tq for high end HP.
Honestly, yes, i can feel some loss below 3000 especially with my 3.31s. However, the car still has PLENTY of pep (maybe because paired with my other mods), and it certainly does not take 5500+ to start hauling ass... it is certainly hauling MORE ass after that point haha but you have a plenty quick car as it sits. Its just something you are going to have to decide, i am planning the all motor route, cams, valves, maybe heads... So this manifold made sense to me, to someone with the more basic path in mind, the torquier GT manifold may make more sense.
I am guessing your car is a manual?
A DD car with some trips to the track
Boss intake is great only if your going to spend the engine from 7000 to 7500 or its a waste of money. Physics says so
Helmet for safety
1. Large CAI
2. Big tube headers + 3" exhaust
3. Tune
4. Solid Motor Mounts
5. Whiteline Rear Transmission Mount
6. Lower and Upper control Arms
7. One piece drive shaft
8. lite wheels & Bias ply drag tire setup... You are going to do some real clutch drops, 5500+, you want a soft sidewall bias ply tire
9. BMR K frame and radiator support
10. new clutch pack
A DD car with some trips to the track
Boss intake is great only if your going to spend the engine from 7000 to 7500 or its a waste of money. Physics says so
Helmet for safety
1. Large CAI
2. Big tube headers + 3" exhaust
3. Tune
4. Solid Motor Mounts
5. Whiteline Rear Transmission Mount
6. Lower and Upper control Arms
7. One piece drive shaft
8. lite wheels & Bias ply drag tire setup... You are going to do some real clutch drops, 5500+, you want a soft sidewall bias ply tire
9. BMR K frame and radiator support
10. new clutch pack
Very simple as you're still missing the most important thing. A converter.
I got over 20+lbs wtq back, going from the boss/accufab to the CJ + corn.. If you got to change the manifold, cobra jets where it's at. Otherwise just port the stock one..
Also rocking 3.31 gears and still have plenty of passing power in 6th cruising @60-65 down state road 7 otw to work.
Also rocking 3.31 gears and still have plenty of passing power in 6th cruising @60-65 down state road 7 otw to work.
lol not just any short throw shifter, a MGW...
Also whiteline transmission bushing and bmr k member would be also good to do while upgrading those a arms..
ive heard about people getting the trans bushing and motor mounts but these sound like they would be difficult to replace. or does it just sound harder than it is?
Id say dont forget the Upper control arm and a front sway bar delete helps with the weight transfer. More power isn't always the only thing u need to stick it to the ground
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The Whiteline trans bushing is easy. Jack it up crawl underneath, support tranny, remove 4 bolts, slide in bushing and reverse directions. I haven't done motor mounts but they do require more of an effort.
thanks for the response, which converter would you recommend? Im in the market for some bmr u/lca as well. Im also going to need the bmr relocation sway bar. Ive read about the relocation sway bar
Circle D.
Only if your not trying to Rd Course...Im not into Drag Strip so removing the Front Sway is not an option for me.
I have heard some horror stories about the Trans bushing mod....Is it best to cut the center out or modify it a different way?
^^^this. I considered going N/A but it's so damn expensive per hp to do so. If you were to do an all out NA build, go with a CJ mani, stage 3 comp cams without limiters, some longtubes and let that puppy scream.
I read the same horror stories about it too. Yet I lubed it up and shoved it in anyway without modifying it and I don't have any extra NVH. The way I see it, if it bothers you, THEN take it out and cut the center out. But like I said, no problems here.
If you want to make power N/A then you need to rev it to 7500rpm... Same deal with playing with a stick shift, a good clutch should be a priority!
at the track your car probably won't see any rpm below 5K, so I don't see how a loss of torque matters...
at the track your car probably won't see any rpm below 5K, so I don't see how a loss of torque matters...
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I didn't cut anything and only noticed a tiny bit of road noise and only with the radio off and windows up. It seemed to help with high RPM shifts but the key for me was to learn to row/finesse the shift rather than just try to slam it in their like in my '03. I still missed a shift into 5th a couple of times at Sebring but it was because I was trying to catch my buddy and slamming the gears instead of shifting smoothly. If I get excited and have too much lateral pressure going into 5th it would say hell no. But without the tranny brace I would miss more shifts so it does help. If the NVH is too much just pull it back out and cut a whole in the center section or cut it off completely. Either way, cheap easy mod that helps. Not a lot of those for this car.
What is cutting the center out suppose to improve on? Still learning this MT-82 btw...
It's a 3 prong brace. It's used to decrease transmission movement while driving so you dont miss shifts. The two prongs on the side are smaller and do a fine job all by themselves. If the increase in noise is too much you can cut the larger middle prong with a hole saw and remove a significant amount of the noise transmission while still maintaining some of the function or just remove the whole middle prong to reduce as much noise as possible and still have the side prongs to stabilize the tranny. Disclaimer: My brace is intact, functions well withinimal added noise and everything I said about cutting and function after cutting are from what I've read online.
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