i drove to my apartment 3 days ago to turn in my 30 day notice and pay the months rent. went back out to the truck to start it and no luck. the truck turns over, fires up for about 2 seconds and dies. when it starts the rpms go up to about 2000 is all then the truck dies. if i try to give it gas when its started for the 2 seconds it only makes the truck die faster and the rpms dont go up at all when i hit the pedal. i had about 40,000 miles on the fuel filter so i changed it in the parking lot where the truck sits hopeing maybe i wasnt getting enough fuel pressure through a clogged filter. once i changed it out i tried to start it and it just did the same thing as before. when i turn the key forward i can hear the pumps turn on. i left the key forward and popped the hood. i took the cap off of the valve stem on the fuel rail and pressed it down with a screw driver and didnt get any fuel coming out at all, just the sound of air like from a tire was all. i dont have a fuel pressure guage so i dont know what its at. im thinking maybe one of the hoses came off of one of the pumps in the fuel tank maybe. i installed dual 255 pumps about 8 months ago. the first night i had problems i hooked up the predator and got a fuel code. it said something along the lines of #2 fuel circuit high. i cleared the codes, un hooked the battery and hooked it back up. tried re-uploading my tune and starting the truck and it still wont start. now i cant get the code to come back up so i cant write down the exact number that it gave me the first night. my truck has been sitting for 3 days now 30 minutes away from my house and i have been haveing to drive my roomies car back and forth until i can figure out what to do with it. theres only one shop thats big up here on fords and because of that they think they can charge 150% more then everyone else so im not taking it to them, and i dont feel like taking it to a dealer to see whats the problem with it. anyone have any clue as to what it might be causeing me the problems with not wanting to stay running once started????
my truck is stranded
- Thread starter PearlBlue L
- Start date
dang bro, that sucks.....at first i was thinking of a vaccum line coming off, but you said you installed the pumps, so that is most likely your problem. is the truck in a safe place?
have it towed to your place first of all
second, pull out that shrader valve while your roomie turns the key and see if you can get any fuel, if not get ready to pull the bed back and dip into the tank
second, pull out that shrader valve while your roomie turns the key and see if you can get any fuel, if not get ready to pull the bed back and dip into the tank
im waiting to see if someone in the illinois lightning club has a trailor before i pay for a tow trucklightninmike said:
the bed isnt that hard to do. the hardest part of all is getting the damn fill tube on and off
Almost sounds like you MAF is unplugged (or not delivering the proper voltage readings). Check the connector, wires, etc.
My truck did the same type of thing, when my IAC wasnt hooked up correctly. It would start, then die out seconds later.
i checked the maf and the entire intake tube to make sure it was tight and everything was connectedScotts Elle said:
just looked at the how-to section and found all the codes
this is the code i got 3 days ago
P0183 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (EFT) The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the EFT sensor circuit to the PCM for high voltage. If voltage were to exceed a calibrated limit and a calibrated amount of time during testing, the test will fail. Open or short to PWR in harness.
Damaged EFT sensor.
Improper harness connection.
Damaged PCM.
Verify EFT-PID value to determine open or short.
this is the code i got 3 days ago
P0183 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (EFT) The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the EFT sensor circuit to the PCM for high voltage. If voltage were to exceed a calibrated limit and a calibrated amount of time during testing, the test will fail. Open or short to PWR in harness.
Damaged EFT sensor.
Improper harness connection.
Damaged PCM.
Verify EFT-PID value to determine open or short.
yea the fuel temp sensor is almost like a fuel pressure sensor, if it thinks its too high it might shut off the pumps. maybe a wire fell off the pump. but the fuel temp sensor is inside the tank so id start there. maybe toss a new one in if ford sells it seperate, sometimes they dont.
PearlBlue L said:
i can get a trailor from a friend of mine, i just have to call him, but how do you plan on getting the truck, on the trailor if the truck doesnt start?
sounds like you were just recruited for pushing! you guys have fun with thatslosvt said:
oke:
DEVOURER said:sounds like you were just recruited for pushing! you guys have fun with that
i aint pushing maybe ill just a hook a tow strap to garys l and pull it on the trailor
A come along will work also to load the truck on a trailer.
muscles.... i figured 2-3 guys pushing could get it going fast enough to go up on a trailor with one guy steeringslosvt said:
PearlBlue L said:
Could work I tried calling but your phone isnt working if you would like beep me at 109*238159*7
I haven't had this problem, but since you said it threw a code after you installed the 255 pumps, sounds like something is wrong with one of the pumps. It's possible that you got a faulty pump from the supplier you bought them at. It happens. If you still have your OEM pumps, try putting those in, reseting the computer and see what that gets you.
it threw the code the day that i got the problem of not starting up. the pumps have been in the truck for about 8 months now.crazy4ink said:
well i just pulled the bed back and pulled the pumps out. everything was hooked up fine so no hose was undone. next step i guess is to put my stock pumps back on the truck and see if it will start cause i dropped the pumps back in and hooked it all back up and check the fuel rail again and didnt have any pressure or fuel at all in the rail.
i checked all the fuses and relays too and everything was pushed down tight and the fuse wasnt blown.
if a pump was bad would you still hear them kick on when you turn the key forward??????????
i checked all the fuses and relays too and everything was pushed down tight and the fuse wasnt blown.
if a pump was bad would you still hear them kick on when you turn the key forward??????????
Users who are viewing this thread
