~~Need Everyone's Help / Opinion Please~~

CobraTerritory

Merica
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First off i'm going to try my best and stay organized as i type this. I had a horable day at the track a couple weeks back due to blowing a head gasket and/or lifting a head. no white smoke out the tailpipe so we were thinking at that point that the overflow cap juat failed. Coolant spewed past the overflow cap past the hood vent and onto the windshield going down the track. Let the car cool off and ran to the local parts store for a replacement overflow cap. Once the car was cooled off i figured "here we go. Time to drive home" The car didn't make it a block out of the drag strip before overheating bad. At that point i said "OK air in the system" Tired taking off the coolant crossover plug but as we all know it's a PITA. Broke my only 1/4 drive and did not have vice grips. At this point my girlfriend and i called AAA for a tow. When he arrived he looked at the car and told me that AAA would not cover/tow a modified car (lowered and different tires and wheels) and told me that he could tow it but without the AAA coverage and we would have to pay out of pocket. Here is a pic for your viewing pleasure hahaha.

U2NyZWVuc2hvdF8yMDE0LTAzLTA5LTEzLTE0LTEzLTEuanBn_zps19be6bca.gif


So the next day we call AAA and dispute the charge and we were sent a Reimbursement Form which we filled out and a couple day later got our money back. THANK GOD!!

Anyways back to the car. The first thing i did was pressurize the cooling system to 16psi and look around to see where the coolant was coming from. I noticed it was leaking from the D'agostino head cooling mod. The hose clamps were loose and it was dripping a little bit but i know that was not the main source of the leak. I had to use a propane torch to heat up the coolant crossover plug to remove it with vice grips. once that was off i burped the cooling system properly and repressured the cooling system and rechecked for leaks. I noticed a BIG leak coming from the bottom on the block where the trans bell housing bolts to the block. no trail that i can just at the bottom. Anyways at that point i gave up looking for the day and did a compression test. The first compression test i did was a full crank test until the compression gauge would not move any further and these were my results.

SU1BRzA2NTcuanBn_zpsd22d3eaf.gif


Sent this pic to a good buddy of mine and he told me to redo the test and pay close attension to the first puff and to do a consistant test between cylinders. so here are the results of the 1 puff and 4 puff test.

SU1BRzA2NTguanBn_zps8c07b2a2.gif


I, then, sent him these results and it appears my lower end is ok

A couple days later i have another buddy (Snakerider) on here come over to try and pin point the coolant leak. we pressure tested the cooling system yet again and the only leak we find is coming from the head cooling mod. I, again, burp the cooling system and kept the plug open with a funnel as i start the car. Immediately we see clouds of white smoke filling the garage and we also notice black carbon deposits in the funnel as the coolant level at the crossover bubbles and gets higher and lower. Pulled the oil cap with the car running and noticed a whiteish milky oil residue on the bottom side of the cap. So its defiately a blown head gasket and or also the head lifted. until this point i had no white smoke and no oil mixing in the coolant or or coolant in oil. I guess after pressurizing the system over and over weakened the headgasket more and more until symptoms started showing themselves

Now its time to gather up some parts and this is where i need help. We will be doing the work at a buddies shop and he told me i need to do head studs. The heads need to go to the machine shop to be milled (not sure if that the right term) but the bottom of the heads have to be cut to ensure flatness. The motor is an 03 so i have the 4 thread heads so should i just keep the existing heads or go with the revised heads with 8 threads and revised coolant passages. I was looking around at prices on ported heads and it's not in my budget. How often to spark plugs really shoot out of the heads? Is it really work $2,600 for the ford revised heads? Another question for you guys... Since the heads are coming off it would be a good time to do cams and i'm set on comp cams but not sure which stage to go with 2 or 3. Keep in mind the bottom end is stock and i did do a search that yielded a possible PTV clearance issue with the stage 3s. is this true? Right now the car is a bolt on and ported eaton car. I could do it real cheap and just have the heads cut and reinstall with all stock stuff but we all know that no one wants to do that. Sorry for the long read and i hope you guys can help guide me in the correct direction.

Thanks
J.R.
 
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gabe1530

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I'm no tech so I don't know all the answers to your questions but IMO, I would stick with your 4 thread heads. There are tons of guys running close to 1k hp on oem longblocks. Since, the heads are coming off and need to be disassembled, milled and cleaned you could port match the intake and exhaust yourself. This is really easy and can be done on your own.
What do you have for headers and exhaust?
Make sure you get the arp2000 studs and not the cheaper ones - 4160's? Not sure of the correct part number from arp.
Even the stage 2 comps (360's) will have ptv clearance if not installed correctly. The 360's are better suited for a street car and if you go tvs/ts in the future, they will be a nice compliment.
 

CobraTerritory

Merica
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Thanks for the reply Gabe. I actually already started ordering up parts and i actually have Mac long tubes and a lethal o/r x pipe on the way. Ill make sure to order the ARP2000 studs. Also have a UPR Tubular K-member, a arms, and coilovers on order.
 

gabe1530

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Np, good choice on all those parts. Great bang for the buck in parts.
There's also a member here that cleaned the opening of welding slag on his mac's. He also did some other mods to them but he picked up a lot with little free horsepower mods.
 

snakerider

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Wasup J.R, that day when i came over to help you trouble shoot the problem. I had my fingers crossed that wasn't a head gasket, just a leaking hose or the head cooling mod. But from my experience those symptoms are of a blown head gasket. I don't know if I mentioned it to you or not. The passenger side head on my car is 4 thread head the other is 9 thread head. You already know what kind of power I am making. I didn't bother changing my 4 thread head for a 9 thread head when I built my motor. IMO you will be fine with your 4 thread heads like Gabe said. I were you I would just have your current heads rebuild and slap them on. Shoot me a text or call me me if you have any questions.
 

snakerider

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Ravi, with the stock cams or stage 2 comp

If it was me and had stock motor I would go with stage 2 just to be on the safe side, but since like others mentioned with stage 3 you might run into PTV issue. Stage 2 will be a good choice for you. You know for sure you will not have PTV issue. IMO you should call comp cams and find out what the specs are for stage 2 and 3 than go from there. Have you thought about custom cams?
 

TRBO VNM

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Well, if it were my car and heads were off, the first thing I would do is put the timeserts in for 8 threads. No questions asked. Ford revised them for a reason and if they are off the car it is easy to do. Same with the head studs.

Cams, I would only do them if you are willing to do adjustable cam gears and really time them correctly and change the valve springs as well.

Did you check the dip stick? You checked the oil cap, but I have seen it milky there before without any issues because of condensation. If the oil on the dipstick is milky, then definite head gasket. Maybe even drain some oil and see what it looks like.

Compression test is hard to tell with head gasket depending on how bad it is because it can reseal. Which looks like it did since your numbers appear ok.

What about your expansion tank? How does that look?
 

CobraTerritory

Merica
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- I guess i have to add adjustable cam gears to my list of parts to order. thanks for the heads up.
- The oil looks clean at the dipstick and the coolant overflow reservoir is not contaminated.

- What brand valve springs is everyone running? I've heard the ARP Beehive springs brake. which ones should i order?

- Also which headgaskets should i order. FelPro PermaTorque?

- Is this the correct part number to the ARP2000 head stud kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-256-4201/overview/
 
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badcobra

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I'd skip the adjustable cam gears. Most are garbage, especially the ones made by/for comp cams. Do a large amount of research first if you go that route, but I'd stay stock if it were me. Most definitely order ARP cam bolts though.
 

03Cobrra

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If you're sticking with the stock pistons don't go with the stage 3 comp cams you would have to retard them so much in order to have adequate PTV clearance that it wouldn't even be worth it. Go with the smaller off the shelf comp cams, manley springs and retainers, stay away from the beehive springs. Arp studs and either stock (felpro) or cometic headgaskets. No need for new heads just timesert yours and if you don't have it already do the head cooling mod.

Everyone will tell you the adjustable cam gears are no good but most of the problems with them are due to install error either no loctite used on the bolts or they weren't tight enough and the gears slipped. I have had the comp cam gears in my motor for 2 1/2 years making over 900rwhp and when I took the motor apart they hadn't moved at all, I know because I marked them. You don't need them but they will make your life a lot easier when degreeing the cams. Also add arp cam bolts to your list, absolutely do not re-use the stock ones they are tty.
 
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badcobra

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I broke a set of those comp gears way back in '07. They were installed properly, lock tight, torqued to spec, etc. Cost me a lot of money. Glad they are working for some, but I wouldn't trust em.
 

03Cobrra

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I broke a set of those comp gears way back in '07. They were installed properly, lock tight, torqued to spec, etc. Cost me a lot of money. Glad they are working for some, but I wouldn't trust em.

What exactly broke? Did the motor lock up and cause it to break? As far as I know the comp gears are stronger than the stock powdered metal gears.
 

Tractionless1

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With all the motor build issues I've seen, I'd go Reman Ford after all they are in the 9's. You could always throw a Melling pump on it, head studs, etc. to fortify it and you'll be under your rebuild cost and with 9 thread heads.
 

badcobra

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What exactly broke? Did the motor lock up and cause it to break? As far as I know the comp gears are stronger than the stock powdered metal gears.
The HW that holds the gears failed. The bolt sheared off all the threads and ended up bending all my valves. Maybe they have made improvements since then, but I would never risk it again.
 

TRBO VNM

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With all the motor build issues I've seen, I'd go Reman Ford after all they are in the 9's. You could always throw a Melling pump on it, head studs, etc. to fortify it and you'll be under your rebuild cost and with 9 thread heads.

Which motor? Because I just put an aluminator in a car a year ago and it had a thrust bearing issue, which is the same issue they had when first released. My faith in their remans isn't that great.
 

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