NEW!! GT500 Oil cooler / Oil filter relocation kits >>
- Thread starter Modular Racing
- Start date
I bought this kit bit haven't gone around to installing it yet. When I do I'll do write up.
SO - while installing Kooks headers on my GT500, I decided to remove my K-member. In doing so, I guess I lowered the engine a little, and bent the stock cooler barb. Since the stock cooler is basically ruined - I decided to give the MMR kit a try. Added cooling - why not!
I received my cooler kit from MMR after about 3 months wait. Overall I like the kit. Once it comes together I think it will work well. However, this install is not for the faint of heart, and has come with a couple challenges so far:
1) The kit appears to be high quality machining and well packaged. As others have said - no instructions. There is a guide on their website which is ok. Look at the pics closely to see how the alternator brackets are installed on the engine.
2) MMR machined two 1/8" NPT threaded holes for the Ford oil pressure sensor/switch. One is on the block off adapter plate, the other is on the remote oil filter bracket. I supposed MMR wanted to give the customer the option to choose the location that best works for them - cool. The issue I'm having is that the oil pressure switch uses 1/4" NPT threads (!!!), and they did not provide a plug to block off the hole that you are not using. I purchased an 1/8" - 1/4"NPT adapter, and 1/8" NPT plugs from amazon. Hopefully that will solve the problem. This is annoying - especially for a kit that is supposed to be designed for the 07 GT500.
3) As mentioned in previous posts, one of the alternator ears needs to be modified to clear the block off plate. Really not a big deal, but could be very frustrating if you aren't looking for it. Especially because there isn't a lot of visibility in that location. There isn't much that MMR can do here because of the location of the Alternator - however instructions would have been nice.
4) After about an hour of trying to get the alternator mounted, I realized that the supplied upper alternator bracket needs to be modified slightly. A small amount of material needs to be removed so that the alternator will sit flat. Same issues experienced in a previous post. I suggest anyone attempting this project to first assemble it on the ground. You'll see where the material needs to be removed. Better yet, MMR could adjust their CAD file so the alternator clears properly?
5) MMR chose to use Allen head bolts - which I personally dislike. Super easy to strip. You can't re-use the factory bolts because in most cases they are a little too long. I used lots of anti-seize.
6) MMR packaged the kit with a FRAM Racing HP8 filter which is a different thread/size from the factory filter. A factory style filter will not fit. There is no WIX XP option that matches the FRAM HP8. I'm not sure why MMR chose this specific filter, it appears to be quite limiting in options. I generally dislike racing filters for street cars because they don't filter as well. However, based on some research I've done, the FRAM Racing filter seems to be a good for racing and high performance street cars.
7) The coolant lines into the stock cooler need to be joined, but the kit does not come with a barb to connect the hoses. Ensure that you have one and two hose clamp pliers before you disconnect the hoses or you'll spill a lot of coolant. I reused the stock hose clamps, but any clamp will work.
Getting the alternator/block off plate installed took me about 4 hours due to the fitment issues. When I get back to the car in a couple weeks. I'll start installing the remote filter and cooler. Will post again once I get to it.
I received my cooler kit from MMR after about 3 months wait. Overall I like the kit. Once it comes together I think it will work well. However, this install is not for the faint of heart, and has come with a couple challenges so far:
1) The kit appears to be high quality machining and well packaged. As others have said - no instructions. There is a guide on their website which is ok. Look at the pics closely to see how the alternator brackets are installed on the engine.
2) MMR machined two 1/8" NPT threaded holes for the Ford oil pressure sensor/switch. One is on the block off adapter plate, the other is on the remote oil filter bracket. I supposed MMR wanted to give the customer the option to choose the location that best works for them - cool. The issue I'm having is that the oil pressure switch uses 1/4" NPT threads (!!!), and they did not provide a plug to block off the hole that you are not using. I purchased an 1/8" - 1/4"NPT adapter, and 1/8" NPT plugs from amazon. Hopefully that will solve the problem. This is annoying - especially for a kit that is supposed to be designed for the 07 GT500.
3) As mentioned in previous posts, one of the alternator ears needs to be modified to clear the block off plate. Really not a big deal, but could be very frustrating if you aren't looking for it. Especially because there isn't a lot of visibility in that location. There isn't much that MMR can do here because of the location of the Alternator - however instructions would have been nice.
4) After about an hour of trying to get the alternator mounted, I realized that the supplied upper alternator bracket needs to be modified slightly. A small amount of material needs to be removed so that the alternator will sit flat. Same issues experienced in a previous post. I suggest anyone attempting this project to first assemble it on the ground. You'll see where the material needs to be removed. Better yet, MMR could adjust their CAD file so the alternator clears properly?
5) MMR chose to use Allen head bolts - which I personally dislike. Super easy to strip. You can't re-use the factory bolts because in most cases they are a little too long. I used lots of anti-seize.
6) MMR packaged the kit with a FRAM Racing HP8 filter which is a different thread/size from the factory filter. A factory style filter will not fit. There is no WIX XP option that matches the FRAM HP8. I'm not sure why MMR chose this specific filter, it appears to be quite limiting in options. I generally dislike racing filters for street cars because they don't filter as well. However, based on some research I've done, the FRAM Racing filter seems to be a good for racing and high performance street cars.
7) The coolant lines into the stock cooler need to be joined, but the kit does not come with a barb to connect the hoses. Ensure that you have one and two hose clamp pliers before you disconnect the hoses or you'll spill a lot of coolant. I reused the stock hose clamps, but any clamp will work.
Getting the alternator/block off plate installed took me about 4 hours due to the fitment issues. When I get back to the car in a couple weeks. I'll start installing the remote filter and cooler. Will post again once I get to it.
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Re-reading my post above, I realize that it seems a little harsh towards MMR's design - which is not my intention. My intention is to help prepare installers for some potential challenges that they may have.
None of the annoyances I've found so far are insurmountable and I think overall the kit is really neat - and will help keep the engine cool. I am excited to get the car back on the road to test out it's performance!
More to come.
None of the annoyances I've found so far are insurmountable and I think overall the kit is really neat - and will help keep the engine cool. I am excited to get the car back on the road to test out it's performance!
More to come.
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I thought I read similar thread in SVTPerformance site. I believe MMR fixed that issue and the new alternator bracket should fit better but I’m typing from my phone/talkatap.
I want to install this cooler but with a high flow oil temp thermostat to ensure proper oil temp during cold start.
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Yeah the upper alternator bracket I received didn't clear the alternator body correctly. I wish I took a photo. Really easy to modify - small amount of grinding required. You'll see right away if you assemble it off the car first.
As for the thermostat, I may add one if warm up is really slow. There are a few different brands out there. Mishimoto makes one with 10AN fittings and it's not very expensive.
Here is the one I will use. This one is the best to the temperature we should be aiming and the options in fittings or barbs is great.
Improved Racing FSM-215 High-Flow 215F Engine Oil Thermostat, 12AN
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Not sure if the link worked so here it is below from Amazon:
Brand: Improved Racing
Improved Racing FSM-215 High-Flow 215F Engine Oil Thermostat, 12AN
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Ok just a small update - pictures will come soon.
1) MMR suggests mounting the cooler parallel to the ground. I experimented with a couple spots where it was flat, but I really didn't feel comfortable having such a critical and delicate part so close to the ground where debris or a speed bump could cause it to rupture and destroy the engine. Not to mention, I wanted to keep the plastic shroud in place. There is is a nice gap between the heat exchanger and AC Condenser where I was able to tuck the cooler up safe and sound. I fabricated a couple small brackets that use existing bolts to mount it. I'll get some pics of this for next week.
2) The oil filter mount fits nicely up against the passenger frame rail in front of the wheel. Again, I made a custom bracket that uses existing hardware to mount it. I was dead-set against drilling any new holes into the car. The custom brackets will work great
3) MMR provided 6' of -10AN hose. I ordered more because I'm not sure the 6' will be enough. We shall see.
1) MMR suggests mounting the cooler parallel to the ground. I experimented with a couple spots where it was flat, but I really didn't feel comfortable having such a critical and delicate part so close to the ground where debris or a speed bump could cause it to rupture and destroy the engine. Not to mention, I wanted to keep the plastic shroud in place. There is is a nice gap between the heat exchanger and AC Condenser where I was able to tuck the cooler up safe and sound. I fabricated a couple small brackets that use existing bolts to mount it. I'll get some pics of this for next week.
2) The oil filter mount fits nicely up against the passenger frame rail in front of the wheel. Again, I made a custom bracket that uses existing hardware to mount it. I was dead-set against drilling any new holes into the car. The custom brackets will work great
3) MMR provided 6' of -10AN hose. I ordered more because I'm not sure the 6' will be enough. We shall see.
4) Block off plate installed with 90* AN fitting. The MMR website shows the straight fittings used here - I tried to use them, but the alternator was too close. The 90* elbows worked much better.
5) Finally, if you choose to mount it like I have, you'll need an extra 6' or so of 10AN hose.
5) Finally, if you choose to mount it like I have, you'll need an extra 6' or so of 10AN hose.
What do you want to know/see? I've posted pics and left extensive feedback.
Unfortunately I don't really have a baseline of pre-temp/post temp. Warm up doesn't take long like others have suggested. I don't think a thermostat will be required.
All seems to be working well. No leaks
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