Newbie question

[TVSed GT]

hey guys, just starting to research converting to e85 and have what is probably a dumb question. I only have 2 stations that have e85 near me. The one nearest to me isn’t labeled as e85 at the pump but “flex fuel”. Is this only due to the fact that actual ethanol content will vary based on time of year for cold start purposes? Is it still safe to run in my supercharged ‘12 if I have the necessary fuel system and tune since I don’t drive it in winter?
Want to be sure the lower e content (as low as approx 65-70% based on location during colder fall or spring months per EIA or EPA document I read) isn’t going to negatively impact performance or reliability. I understand lower e content will cause rich condition with e85 tune so no concerns of leaning out, just want to better understand how to enter this fully informed.
VMP tuned and plan to stay that way if it matters.
Thanks in advance for advice!

 

[TVSed GT]

Any advice from all you ethanol experts?

 

[MG0h3]

E85 doesn't lose octance until its down around E50. Most places have 85 in the summer and 75 or 70 in the winter. You won't really have a power diff. from the two. My tuner left my timing the same for both. The tuner can do this quite easily once the 85 or 75 tune is dialed; they just do the math and adjust the fueling.

I suspect the "flex fuel" signage is just what they decided to do at that particular store. E85 is what's on the sign at my two places even when it's 75.

You need to get an ethanol content tester.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3-zQntzL4AIV5B6tBh14DwhvEAQYASABEgK4tvD_BwE

 

[BLOWN9646]

Test the fuel like MG said. E54 at Shell was too rich, saw low 10's a/f WOT on my wideband and I was not comfortable with that.

 

[TVSed GT]

Will pick up a tester for sure, thanks for the tip! So as long as it’s in the 75-85% range ten I should be good?

 

[blubyu87gt]

This is the general guidance for ethanol content. Mind you this is in no way enforced. I've found it to pretty accurate though.

Edit: added a handy little chart for reading the wideband values.

Summer Blend: Class 1 (min 79% ethanol)
Spring/Fall Blend: Class 2 (min 74% ethanol)
Winter Blend: Class 3 (min 70% ethanol)

 

[11Sec_Lx]

Here are some ethanol "best practices" I abide by and it's served me well for the last three years.

1) Run the car for 30+ minutes every time it's started. The purpose is to get the oil hit enough to burn moisture added to it from the ethanol. This will also keep you from damaging your widebands.

2) Change your oil often. I change it every 6-8 weeks when on ethanol to keep uncontaminated oil in the engine. I use regular Mobil 1 synthetic for this reason.

3) Know that if you run a crankcase ventilation setup with a vented tank, that it will fill up faster on ethanol and much faster when it's cold out (early spring and fall). You want to stay on top of this so you don't end up with a full tank and this fluid sitting in your engine.

4) Have your injectors cleaned/flow tested every winter

5) Clean your in-line fuel filter twice a year

6) I run a dual pump Fore hat. One pump runs full time and the other is boost referenced from a Hobbs switch. I will run new pumps for one year, then for year #2 I switch the wiring so the pump running full time the first year switches to part time and the part time pump runs full time the second year.

7) Visually inspect the pump socks after that first year. If they are yellowish, continue per #6. If they are a dark grey color, that means the brushes are coming apart and they need to be replaced

 

[TVSed GT]

Here are some ethanol "best practices" I abide by and it's served me well for the last three years.

1) Run the car for 30+ minutes every time it's started. The purpose is to get the oil hit enough to burn moisture added to it from the ethanol. This will also keep you from damaging your widebands.

2) Change your oil often. I change it every 6-8 weeks when on ethanol to keep uncontaminated oil in the engine. I use regular Mobil 1 synthetic for this reason.

3) Know that if you run a crankcase ventilation setup with a vented tank, that it will fill up faster on ethanol and much faster when it's cold out (early spring and fall). You want to stay on top of this so you don't end up with a full tank and this fluid sitting in your engine.

4) Have your injectors cleaned/flow tested every winter

5) Clean your in-line fuel filter twice a year

6) I run a dual pump Fore hat. One pump runs full time and the other is boost referenced from a Hobbs switch. I will run new pumps for one year, then for year #2 I switch the wiring so the pump running full time the first year switches to part time and the part time pump runs full time the second year.

7) Visually inspect the pump socks after that first year. If they are yellowish, continue per #6. If they are a dark grey color, that means the brushes are coming apart and they need to be replaced

This is awesome, thanks for taking the time to pass along your knowledge!

 

[11Sec_Lx]

You are very welcome. Replies like yours are very much appreciated.