Noise when foot off clutch?

[sebasflorez]

Hi guys, so I’ve been noticing this noise that seems to be coming from my transmission when my foot is off the clutch. English is not my first language so I’m sorry if it’s hard to describe, it basically sounds like a hamster running very fast on a hamster wheel. It goes away immediately as soon as I press on the clutch even if ever so slightly. What could this be? Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

my first guess would be the throwout bearing. If you have an aftermarket firewall adjuster or adjustable cable you could try adjusting it a tad and see if the noise stops. If everything is factory then I believe with process is to pull the clutch pedal up as far as it will go then press it down to the floor. If there is sufficient slack it will move the factory adjuster a click or two and tighten things up a tad

 

[MG0h3]

^^^^99% sure this is it.

The fact that a light touch stops the noise seals it for me.

And his fix is correct.

Let us know if you have the factory clutch quadrant or aftermarket quadrant or cable.

Look under the hood where the clutch cable comes through. Right next to master cylinder.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[98 svt]

Yup, t.o.b.

 

[PaxtonShelby]

^^^ these guys nailed it

 

[sebasflorez]

So I tried pulling the clutch pedal up but it still makes the noise. I’m not certain how to tell if the clutch cable is stock or aftermarket.
Do you guys think the tob needs to be replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[01yellercobra]

So I tried pulling the clutch pedal up but it still makes the noise. I’m not certain how to tell if the clutch cable is stock or aftermarket.
Do you guys think the tob needs to be replaced?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

After pulling it up you have to push the pedal all the way down. It only works if you have the stock quadrant. Easiest way to check the cable is to look at where it connects to the fork. If it has threads and lock nuts then it's aftermarket.

But yes, it sounds like the TOB needs to be replaced.

 

[sebasflorez]

After pulling it up you have to push the pedal all the way down. It only works if you have the stock quadrant. Easiest way to check the cable is to look at where it connects to the fork. If it has threads and lock nuts then it's aftermarket.

But yes, it sounds like the TOB needs to be replaced.

I did that and the noise (I think) is quieter somehow?
I’m probably looking at doing both clutch and tob since that’ll run me the same in labor. Any ideas on what clutch I should get? I know TOB has to be Ford from what I’ve read on here. I think the last owner of the car had the clutch replaced and they likely used one of the off brand crappy TOBs.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[P49Y-CY]

I did that and the noise (I think) is quieter somehow?
I’m probably looking at doing both clutch and tob since that’ll run me the same in labor. Any ideas on what clutch I should get? I know TOB has to be Ford from what I’ve read on here. I think the last owner of the car had the clutch replaced and they likely used one of the off brand crappy TOBs.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

i would think a shop would charge more in labor to replace a clutch as opposed to just replacing the tob (?) it takes longer to do.

i would only do the tob at this time if the clutch isn't slipping, but that's just me.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

If it still has the stock clutch quadrant I would go ahead and do an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. If you go aftermarket clutch you'll probably end up having to do this anyway.

Once the TOB starts making noise it is on its way out but proper adjustment may make it last longer. They seem to be really hit or miss, plenty of people have put in a new ford piece and had it crap out in short order (proper adjustment does a play a roll here)

As for clutch selection we would need to know what mods have been done to the car or how much power it's putting down. Unless you know there are a bunch of miles on it might be worth waiting until the trans is out to evaluate the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.

 

[Revvv]

i would think a shop would charge more in labor to replace a clutch as opposed to just replacing the tob (?) it takes longer to do.

i would only do the tob at this time if the clutch isn't slipping, but that's just me.

You still have to pull the trans, and at that point you are a couple bolts away from swapping the clutch.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[01yellercobra]

You still have to pull the trans, and at that point you are a couple bolts away from swapping the clutch.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

To a point. If the clutch is fairly new there's no point in pulling the bellhousing IMO. I just went through this with my car and having to install an adjustable pivot ball. The RXT is still in good shape. So splitting at the bellhousing is all I needed to do. It also saved me a couple couples worth of work.

 

[P49Y-CY]

You still have to pull the trans, and at that point you are a couple bolts away from swapping the clutch.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

maybe on a t45... not on a t56 =)

 

[Revvv]

maybe on a t45... not on a t56 =)

I wasn't even thinking about the 56. My mind went straight to the tr3650.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[P49Y-CY]

I wasn't even thinking about the 56. My mind went straight to the tr3650.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Yup... not used on the Terminator.