Oil Viscosity for DOHC

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Four cam slam

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I run Roush synthetic 5W40 in my 97 Cobra.....100000 miles 100psi cold start, 65 psi hot at 2000 rpm.....It uses a tiny bit of oil, caught in my seperator. Runs like a champ, and dead quiet....:burnout:
 

tmhutch

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This is an interesting conversation. Did Ford say anything about changing the viscosity on 96 Cobra's? What is suggested by you guys for that year? Any experiences?

All DOHC's through 2004 should be running 5w-30.
 

Brutal Metal

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A guy on another Forum started a thread about this, I attached some of the links here to share info and he took the advice and switched to a 5W30 AND immediately he says there's cold start piston slap, he drove for this oil two days then went back to 5W20 and now a quiet motor as before, what gives for this dude? 01 Bullitt 2V?
Shouldn't there be less noise?
 

tmhutch

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A guy on another Forum started a thread about this, I attached some of the links here to share info and he took the advice and switched to a 5W30 AND immediately he says there's cold start piston slap, he drove for this oil two days then went back to 5W20 and now a quiet motor as before, what gives for this dude? 01 Bullitt 2V?
Shouldn't there be less noise?

Yes, the 5w-30 would help with piston slap, not make it worse. I doubt that's what he was hearing.

Thicker oil takes longer to circulate through the engine but were talking micro seconds, not anything that would be audible. His experience is unlike anything I've ever heard and makes no sense.
 

shadyninja

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Just to stir more s**t, who makes the best oil filter? I like the Bosch long oil filter, or a wix.



I have some photos , but I'm sure beast will chime in and post them
die.gif
 

UnleashedBeast

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what do you guys think of using 10w30 synthetic?

It's the best 30 grade lubricant you can use for your 4.6L modular engine, but only if it's a TRUE synthetic base stock formulation, not the highly refined petroleum lubricants everyone has been buying off the shelf from Mobil 1, Castrol, and Pennzoil.....despite them printing "synthetic" on the bottle.

Everyone should read post #30 and #31 in the thread link posted below.

Why 10W-30?

Now, not only did the link above talk about CAFE laws were the reason for 5W-20 weight lubricants, what do you think a Ford durability engineer would say about the use of 5W-20 lubricants in the Ford modular engine?

Scott Whitehead - Don't use 5W-20 post#1

Scott Whitehead - Don't use 5W-20 post#2

Let's talk about burning/PCV oil consumption. The secret lies in NOACK Volatility % (burn off/evaporation test results - lower percentage the better). Highly refined petroleum has a much higher NOACK % compared to true PAO synthetic base stocks.

Refined petoleum (hydrocracked) - 10-12% NOACK

True synthetic (PAO) - 5-8% NOACK

The best lubricant you will ever use in your 4.6L modular is Amsoil ATM 10W-30. It has a very lower NOACK (5.7%), extremely shear resistant, and as read in post #31 of the "Why 10W-30" link posted above, it flows just as good as any 5W-30 Mobil 1 refined petroleum formulation at 32*F.

Questions about oil filters. You can discuss oil filters until you are blue in the face, but the Amsoil EaO11 oil filter beats them all. It contains a patented nano fiber synthetic fiber media that flows with the best, yet has a higher capacity to trap finer particles. Here is a picture of an EAO15, same internals as the EAO11, just slightly taller.

4c5ac795.jpg


AmsoilEaO15.jpg


Now compare to the construction of the common K&N and Mobil 1 oil filters.

KNHP-3001.jpg


Mobil1M1-301EP.jpg


and the way Ford Motorcraft (Purolator) builds their filters.

1eddb1eb.jpg


and how about this fail boat FRAM Racing filter...lol (paper end caps)

006e847b.jpg


standard Fram

bde27c8a.jpg


Tough Guard Fram

0091897e.jpg


Extended Guard (the only Fram I would ever use if in a pinch)

27301d23.jpg


What wonderful cheap Fram quality does after 2,200 miles....it collapses.

8c00f463.jpg
 
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Jamiehatch

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What About Oil with ZInc? Should we try to get oil with ZDDP additive Like Royal Purple HPS and XPR? Will that help with the 4V
 

2DXTRM

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What About Oil with ZInc? Should we try to get oil with ZDDP additive Like Royal Purple HPS and XPR? Will that help with the 4V

Thats more for older engines with flat tappet cams etc. But it wont hurt a newer engine like the DOHCs.

Diesel grade oils (which can be used in gasoline engines) also contain extra doses of zinc and zddp that regular gasoline engines dont have enough of.
 

UnleashedBeast

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What About Oil with ZInc? Should we try to get oil with ZDDP additive Like Royal Purple HPS and XPR? Will that help with the 4V

I had just as good, if not better UOA results with Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30 compared to Amsoil 10W-40. The difference is viscosity, and the additive package.

10W-30: Lower ZDDP, but added Moly and Boron to compensate.

10W-40: High ZDDP formulation

Diesel grade oils (which can be used in gasoline engines) also contain extra doses of zinc and zddp that regular gasoline engines dont have enough of.

I read some negative side effects using HDEO in gasoline cars and trucks. HDEO uses magnesium and calcium as a detergent additive. PCMO uses only calcium. Something about magnesium causes deposits to form in a gasoline engine.
 

shurur

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Brutal Metal said
A guy on another Forum started a thread about this, I attached some of the links here to share info and he took the advice and switched to a 5W30 AND immediately he says there's cold start piston slap, he drove for this oil two days then went back to 5W20 and now a quiet motor as before, what gives for this dude? 01 Bullitt 2V?
Shouldn't there be less noise? .




Yes, the 5w-30 would help with piston slap, not make it worse. I doubt that's what he was hearing.

Thicker oil takes longer to circulate through the engine but were talking micro seconds, not anything that would be audible. His experience is unlike anything I've ever heard and makes no sense.

********************************

This is also to Brutal metal as well..just can't seem to get the GD multiquote to work for me...so had to cut & paste Brutal's quote...hope it comes out OK.

I stated in another recent thread:
5w-30 any synthetic..7 quarts......I had a mechanic tell me it's easier for older sump oil pumps to suck it up..:shrug:

SOOOO...
Q: Even if 5w-20 was recommended...once oil sump pump gets "tired" wouldn't 5w-30 be best??

That is..is what I was told true?

Two separate mechanics..both audi mechanics, told me this...I have that 3.0l audi A4 with that "oil-centric" engine..in my winter driver..as Kelly doesn't see snow..

Also and sorta aside...but not...

Q: Is 5w-30 synthetic Blend oil equivalent to 10w-30 pure $ynthetic oil??

I see you more on modularfords..thanks for posting at SVTP.
 
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tmhutch

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********************************

This is also to Brutal metal as well..just can't seem to get the GD multiquote to work for me...so had to cut & paste Brutal's quote...hope it comes out OK.

I stated in another recent thread:
5w-30 any synthetic..7 quarts......I had a mechanic tell me it's easier for older sump oil pumps to suck it up..:shrug:

SOOOO...
Q: Even if 5w-20 was recommended...once oil sump pump gets "tired" wouldn't 5w-30 be best??

That is..is what I was told true?

Two separate mechanics..both audi mechanics, told me this...I have that 3.0l audi A4 with that "oil-centric" engine..in my winter driver..as Kelly doesn't see snow..

Also and sorta aside...but not...

Q: Is 5w-30 synthetic Blend oil equivalent to 10w-30 pure $ynthetic oil??

I see you more on modularfords..thanks for posting at SVTP.


I need to update my original post because a few people inlcuding Unleashed and Nick Mckinney have provided valuable information to this topic.

As far as 30w being easier to "suck up" than 20w... I'm not aware of that but would be interested to no more about it. Generally the opposite is true. Are you sure you heard them right?

Blends are not equivalent to pure synthetic in terms of engine protection.

Some of the most valuable hands on information provided on this subject comes from Nick McKinney at Modular Head Shop. He's rebuilt 100's of cylinder heads and engines. He has found that the first point of wear is the cam journals. In fleet vehicles with 200+ thousand miles the quality of the oil is critical and those that run standard 20w or 30w oil are always trashed. The inexpensive oil of choice is diesel spec because of the ZDDP additive. EPA regulations required the removal of the critical protection ingredients from passenger car oils but diesel engines are exempt. 300 thousand mile Taxi and fleet vehicles running 40w and higher diesel spec look brand new on tear down. Specialty oils that dont seek certification also run higher protective ingredients. Those include Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple. The added benefit over diesle spec is the lighter weight. Lighter weight means more power, not much but some. Of coure, they are much more expensive than the diesel spec.

A note about Royal Purple. Although it has a following, I've heard more stories of drivetrain failures with it than any other brand of oil. I dont understand this nor do I have any technical "facts" to back this up. All I can share is my observations over the years.

Todd
 

UnleashedBeast

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One thing that many people are not aware of....

Different base stocks and formulations thicken at different rates compared to each other, and SAE numbers are very misleading.

You would think that Motorcraft 5W-50 is thinner at 32*F than Amsoil 10W-40. However, the inverse is actually true. You have to pay close attention to the spec sheets.
 

98 N/A 4V

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More importantly I think than the weights of earl is the intervals in which you change the earl.

I always change my oil every 400-500 miles or 6 months (not driven much and I have no pcv system so the oil gets dirtier quicker).
 

UnleashedBeast

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I always change my oil every 400-500 miles or 6 months (not driven much and I have no pcv system so the oil gets dirtier quicker).

Very important point. Cars that have PCV delete are very hard on engine lubricant detergents. The vapors can not escape, get trapped in the crankcase, and the detergents are working overtime. This depletes them rapidly, and lowers the amount of time a lubricant can be used. Sludge has been known to form prematurely due to PCV delete when maintenance intervals were not increased.
 

Viking42

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Maybe I just missed it, but what are the reasons to run 7 quarts of oil in these cars vs. the factory recommended 6 quarts?
 

UnleashedBeast

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Maybe I just missed it, but what are the reasons to run 7 quarts of oil in these cars vs. the factory recommended 6 quarts?

To prevent oil starvation in high G motions of the car. High RPM, Cornering, Launching, and braking hard.

Larger oil pans with internal baffles were designed for this reason.
 
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