Opinions on getting Mustang breathing...

[SmithAtlanta]

I have decided to start my modding by improving the breathing of the Stang(short of a buying a new bullitt intake). Here's what I am thinking about doing. Any opinions, comments, or concerns would be great... I am going to try to stay naturally aspirated for the life of the car(but NOS isn't completely out of the question) Any ideas on horsepower gains from Phase 1?

Phase 1
Exhaust:
M-9430-D462 - FRPP Shorty Headers(Are the Ceramic Coated worth the extra money)
MAGNA-93335 - Magnaflow X Pipes w/ cat
MAGNA-15673 - MagnaPack Cat Back

Intake:
M-9926-D462 - FRPP 70mm Throttle Body
Throttle Body forward Densecharger


Phase 2
FRPP 4.10 gears,
Steeda UD Pullies
Steeda timing adjuster
diablo chip(still undeciding on which chip to go with(but must be able to adjust speedo for 4.10's))

Phase 3
All around suspension changes(maybe the full set of Steeda G-TRAC Stages)

Phase 4
Forged parts(Pistons, Crankshaft, Rods, etc)

Phase 5
High flow Intake Manifold and maybe new Heads.

Phase 6
Brembo or maybe Baer Brakes

Phase 7
150+ shot Nitrous(maybe NOSzle)

 

[hillie16]

I would move the brakes to phase 4 or 5...maybe even three. Better to have 'em and not need 'em, than to need 'em and not have 'em.:thumbsup:

 

[GR8WHITE]

Also, if you plan on doing the "bullet" intake skip the TB for the stock intake. That's $200.00 you can direct towards other mods. The goal should be to spen money only once on that type mod, or not buy mods that you won't be able to use if you add something later.

According to the FRPP catalog the headers need "minor modifications to the flange to fit 99's and will not fit 2000+"

The MAY issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords had a good breakdown of the bolt-on parts you asked about. Pullies,T/A,TB,C&L 80mm MAF kit gained them 35 RWTQ at peak and 30 RWTQ across the band. Hp was up 25 at peak and 20 across the band. This was on an auto car without any exhaust also.

 

[SmithAtlanta]

Originally posted by GR8WHITE
Also, if you plan on doing the "bullet" intake skip the TB for the stock intake. That's $200.00 you can direct towards other mods. The goal should be to spen money only once on that type mod, or not buy mods that you won't be able to use if you add something later.

According to the FRPP catalog the headers need "minor modifications to the flange to fit 99's and will not fit 2000+"

The MAY issue of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords had a good breakdown of the bolt-on parts you asked about. Pullies,T/A,TB,C&L 80mm MAF kit gained them 35 RWTQ at peak and 30 RWTQ across the band. Hp was up 25 at peak and 20 across the band. This was on an auto car without any exhaust also.

Ugh... You are right about the headers. I may just drop them off the list for now. I can't see paying $500 for JBA short tube headers. I don't think the gains would be worth it... I guess I might buy the pullies and timing adjuster instead...

 

[99gt-ujstlst]

well If your goin to get headders got your GT go BBK long tubes but if you go with the motor sports they bolt right on well at least they did for me when i put on shorties on my 99gt

okay heads no body makes afthere market but you can get cams, valves,and valve springs, and get them ported

if you get a chip you dont need the steeda timming adjuster that would be a waste of money

also I would recommend istead of getting the bullit intake
and some of the othere modes you have

go with a blower do a safe tune where you can get about 400rwhp out of it

then save for the build and the bullit intake
thats when the intake is better it gives better numbers is when your blown

hope this helps

 

[lightninmike]

99gt is right bullit intake does no good if the car is not blown (no hp gains at all)

 

[GR8WHITE]

Originally posted by GR8WHITE

According to the FRPP catalog the headers need "minor modifications to the flange to fit 99's and will not fit 2000+"

FRPP makes heads for the 4.6 SOHC and DOHC.

The FRPP heads for the SOHC flow better than the 99+ heads. They require the FRPP 96-98 highflow intake, or the stock intakes to be port matched. They are also priced around $1600 for the set. However, there are aftermarket head choices now. ;-)

As for the chip, that one is up to you. The speed cal or abbot compensator will adjust for the gears, and you can change them around if you go with different gears rather than having to reburn the chip. The T/A is nice if you go with the NOS setup you mentioned. It gives you the ability to adjust the timing to the weather and cars needs. The chip is nice for a set adjustment. If you plan to run on motor one pass and N2O a different pass, you can adjust the timing with the T/A to get the most from each setup. These are just options, you have to decide what you like/need. ;-)