Parts in - MM XD RLCA's, panhard bar, Roush UCA
- Thread starter Tob
- Start date
Labor Day weekend with temps in the 80s and chance of more t-storms. Sounds like a good day to get that UCA and accompanying mount put on. Finally got the driveshaft from UPS but am not up for doing that, at least for now, and certainly not without any directions. Anyhow, off I go....
Well, I gave it a shot. Got the rear seat out and the bolt beneath it(easier said than done), but for the life of me I just can't get the bolts to budge that hold the mount in place beneath the car. I only have hand tools and can't get the necessary leverage while lying on my back with hands at odd angles.
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You either need one heck of a torque impact wrench, or a long breaker bar. I had to move both front seats to their forward most positions, and with them both leaning forward. I got into the car, facing backwards, sitting on the center console with both of my feet planted on the metal just under the rear seat backs.
In this position, I put the breaker bar with socket onto the bolt head, grabbed it with both hands, pulled away with my back while pushing away with my legs. Trust me, it's a "bia" but this method works. Once you move it the first time, you have it licked.
In this position, I put the breaker bar with socket onto the bolt head, grabbed it with both hands, pulled away with my back while pushing away with my legs. Trust me, it's a "bia" but this method works. Once you move it the first time, you have it licked.
That's exactly how I did it. That one I got out. It's the twin bolts that hold the mount to the underside of the car that I can't get free.
That requires one heck of a torque impact wrench and a lot of 1/2" extensions. Don't try to loosen those by hand. You may have a blow out!
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Now I found out! lol I already put Humpty Dumpty back together again!
Congrats, you just grew a third ball. :lol1:
*Ferd 15,000 reference* - google search that video if you have never seen it. :-D
Whenever I'm on The Strip watching a comedy act I always ask myself this: Why am I paying good money to be here when I could simply log onto SVTPerformance and read all the laugh riot comments from the HUGE comedic talents on the good ole SVT?
I installed 1/2 of my BMR relocation kit, and the DA control arm last night. Did the passenger side first, as the instructions said. Not particularly hard other than one issue with the instructions that I found. It states to put the support bolt (the one with the gold spacer that goes through the original LCA hole) in and torque to 129ft-lbs BEFORE putting the LCA into the hole of your choice. However, once that bolt is torqued, there is no way in hell that the LCA will fit into the bracket. Loosened it back up a bit, and it slid right in.
I put it in the top hole, since the rear of the car is lowered only 1/2". I might revisit that once I check all the angles later.
I put it in the top hole, since the rear of the car is lowered only 1/2". I might revisit that once I check all the angles later.
Done!
I decided to tackle this again after the speed shop messed up the install on the uca and accompanying mount. I removed the rear seat, got the bolt out with a breaker bar, jacked up the car, supported it, and removed the two rearmost mount bolts. Now I'm about to tackle the lowering of the gas tank. I have the T50 piece, and began to loosen the two rear bolts that hold the fuel tank straps but then stopped.
Here's my question: how long is the bolt that holds the fuel tank strap? Do I have to loosen both? I'm hoping I don't have to remove the whole shebang and can just lower it a tad, but I'm trying to avoid releasing the whole strap.
You have to remove the driver side 100%, but only back off the passenger side to the point of almost coming out (i.e. you can leave it in with only a few threads holding on).
^Thanks, Unleashed. I'm off to the garage again!
Wait a second. Do I take out BOTH bolts on the driver side fuel tank strap? The one at the rear of the tank AND the one on the front? Then just loosen the two bolts on the passenger side?
Edit: I just looked and guess what? There is only one bolt that holds each tank strap. The fastener on the strap closest to the front of the car is just a welded loop, NOT a bolt like I had incorrectly surmised. Dang it all this learning curve is steep!
Edit part deux: Got it off!
Edit: I just looked and guess what? There is only one bolt that holds each tank strap. The fastener on the strap closest to the front of the car is just a welded loop, NOT a bolt like I had incorrectly surmised. Dang it all this learning curve is steep!
Edit part deux: Got it off!
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^Thanks. I actually used a paint can with a balled-up rag atop to support the driver side tank. Finally got the piece out though. Had the most joy accessing the rearmost bolt with two hands while my face was pressed against the differential. I'll get to setting the uca to a more appropriate/accurate length and install it next week some time.
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Tob: After you welded in place your relocation brackets and then reattached the MM Lca's did you notice ANY change in nvh no matter how slight?
That's interesting. No NVH change with MM lca's prior to installing relocation brackets, and no NVH following said lca's attachment to relocation brackets.
I'm experimenting with some different set-ups. Just ordered the Roush piece. After its installation I'll go from there.
I'm experimenting with some different set-ups. Just ordered the Roush piece. After its installation I'll go from there.
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