Paxton car winter upgrades

snkbitten6

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Looking for suggestions. 2012 5.0 Mt 82 car. Mods - Paxton 2200 sl, 3.8, e85, BMR lower control arms, w/relocation brackets. Tuned to 663rwhp. Not pushing it to hard, to 7000rpms, 327 gears. I have Hoosier qtps on it also. 11.1 @ 128 constantly. With 1.7x 60ft. Awful mid July humidity DA. One outing with this set up. More seat time needed and I've added these items since I now have pan hard bar, and strange adjustable rear shocks. Seem to really have the car hooking much better and shooting straight now. The car does have a Tq booster on it with the 10lb spring, because I bought the kit used and did not have the stock elbow, so it's not doing anything currently.

I could swap it all over to a 6r for 2500-3000$ plus aluminum drive shaft and converter.. Any idea of how much faster would this set up be at the track with an auto set up.

Or for the same money.. Buy k member, brace, support for the front end, aluminim driveshaft. Do a 3.33 pully with the Tq booster, will get into boost quicker at shift points... And try to run the crap out of the car, I've yet to really try to launch it and powershift it.

Trying to figure out what I could gain from these two options... Car is Full weight, nothing removed.


Thanks guys for the opinions/experiances.
 

GNBRETT

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how much air in ur tires? ur 60 shud be a lot better then that even with the stick
 

*Predator*

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Looking for suggestions. 2012 5.0 Mt 82 car. Mods - Paxton 2200 sl, 3.8, e85, BMR lower control arms, w/relocation brackets. Tuned to 663rwhp. Not pushing it to hard, to 7000rpms, 327 gears. I have Hoosier qtps on it also. 11.1 @ 128 constantly. With 1.7x 60ft. Awful mid July humidity DA. One outing with this set up. More seat time needed and I've added these items since I now have pan hard bar, and strange adjustable rear shocks. Seem to really have the car hooking much better and shooting straight now. The car does have a Tq booster on it with the 10lb spring, because I bought the kit used and did not have the stock elbow, so it's not doing anything currently.

I could swap it all over to a 6r for 2500-3000$ plus aluminum drive shaft and converter.. Any idea of how much faster would this set up be at the track with an auto set up.

Or for the same money.. Buy k member, brace, support for the front end, aluminim driveshaft. Do a 3.33 pully with the Tq booster, will get into boost quicker at shift points... And try to run the crap out of the car, I've yet to really try to launch it and powershift it.

Trying to figure out what I could gain from these two options... Car is Full weight, nothing removed.


Thanks guys for the opinions/experiances.


I'm running a Vortech V3 with the stock 3.6 pulley (same PSI as a 3.8 on the Paxton), also have long tubes, ported boss manifold and OR-X. Full weight Premium with glass top. Only weight out is front sway bar delete and spare tire out. Race weight is 3980. Auto with a Circle D 5c converter and the car has gone 10.3 @132 on e85 hitting rev limiter on the 2-3 shift so I'm sure it'll go 10.0-10.1 now that its been dialed in. Also shifts @ 7500. Also just picked up a TQ booster myself. Shoting for 9.7 with that setup.
 

11Sec_Lx

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If you aren't married to the stick, I would 6R80 swap it in a heartbeat. They are so fun, they are easier on parts (duh-lol!) and they just work.
 

sdoo500

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Kind of in the same boat. I have gone 11.0 @ 129 all this year never breaking into 10s.

QTPs, stock suspension though which is a must for the winter just not sure where to start. My 60's were 1.5s with 3.73s, and with the new 3.31s theyre usually right around 1.67. Went 11.0 @ 122 bouncing off the limiter and coasting at beginning of season, switched to 3.31s mid summer and didn't help like I thought it would. Paxton car, torque booste, pump 93.

Maybe taking weight out would help me too? Full weight car.
 

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