PNR trunk tank - Hose routing

[RioRed4v]

Have a couple questions about installing my PNR trunk tank with Stewart EMP.

In the instructions it mentions two different methods of routing the hoses. One goes to the Intercooler first, the other goes to the Heat Exchanger first. Has anyone tried hooking up their hoses and compared between Tank>Pump>IC>HE>Tank vs Tank>Pump> HE>IC>Tank?

In the instructions it says IC>HE will be best for using ice and mentions HE>IC is best for street. Mine is primarily a street car so I was leaning towards the HE>IC install method but was curious if anyone has actually compared the differences?

 

[biminiLX]

In my opinion you bought the ice tank to give you the best power when needed (for track and dyno), so when you put ice in it, you want to get the most bang for that buck, so the coldest water should be used by the Intercooler brick first.
On the street when the ice is melted, the extra water volume is just keeping heat soak away longer so it means less.
All that said:
Tank to intercooler brick to heat exchanger and back to tank.
Pump location doesn’t really matter as much, but I have one stock pump on each side of the system.
Good luck.
-J

 

[RioRed4v]

In my opinion you bought the ice tank to give you the best power when needed (for track and dyno), so when you put ice in it, you want to get the most bang for that buck, so the coldest water should be used by the Intercooler brick first.
On the street when the ice is melted, the extra water volume is just keeping heat soak away longer so it means less.
All that said:
Tank to intercooler brick to heat exchanger and back to tank.
Pump location doesn’t really matter as much, but I have one stock pump on each side of the system.
Good luck.
-J

Thanks! I think that's why I'm a little torn.. I want it to perform as it should when there is ice in it, but since 95% of the time it's seeing street duty I was thinking of going the other way. Prior to seeing the directions I figured I'd be going to the intercooler first but now after seeing those I was feeling conflicted.

 

[Willie]

Have you considered a dual system, a front and a rear that is switchable by flipping one switch? Each system has a designated purpose and each designed accordingly.

 

[RioRed4v]

Have you considered a dual system, a front and a rear that is switchable by flipping one switch? Each system has a designated purpose and each designed accordingly.

I haven't really given that a lot of thought. It does sound better overall but hadn't really thought of going that far with it.

 

[Willie]

If you'd like specific info on how I built mine, I'd be happy to share the details.

Basically, I installed 12-volt ball solenoids to divert flow from either the front or rear systems. The front system uses a pump, pump voltage regulator, and H.E. with fans. The rear has an 11-gallon tank, pump and voltage booster, no H.E.

The front system is the default. To switch to the rear, I flip a switch. The furthest right switch on my upper console. >>

This pic shows the control for voltage for both systems. >>

The top left knob (with the blue digital display) allows me to adjust voltage to the front pump. For general all-around driving, I found that 9.5 volts gives the best cooling. The top right knob (with the red digital display) controls the voltage booster that powers my rear pump. Because it does not have an H.E., the best cooling is with max volts, about 17.5v. Ignore the other variable knob with green voltage display. It controls my methanol system.

In the trunk, I've added a couple of things besides the pump (not shown). It includes a slightly tinted acrylic access panel with a "few" goodies. This pic shows a portion of it. >>

Willie

 

[RioRed4v]

If you'd like specific info on how I built mine, I'd be happy to share the details.

Basically, I installed 12-volt ball solenoids to divert flow from either the front or rear systems. The front system uses a pump, pump voltage regulator, and H.E. with fans. The rear has an 11-gallon tank, pump and voltage booster, no H.E.

The front system is the default. To switch to the rear, I flip a switch. The furthest right switch on my upper console. >>


This pic shows the control for voltage for both systems. >>


The top left knob (with the blue digital display) allows me to adjust voltage to the front pump. For general all-around driving, I found that 9.5 volts gives the best cooling. The top right knob (with the red digital display) controls the voltage booster that powers my rear pump. Because it does not have an H.E., the best cooling is with max volts, about 17.5v. Ignore the other variable knob with green voltage display. It controls my methanol system.

In the trunk, I've added a couple of things besides the pump (not shown). It includes a slightly tinted acrylic access panel with a "few" goodies. This pic shows a portion of it. >>
View attachment 1685595

Willie

Your setup is probably the definition of cooling system goals lol. That's a badass setup man. I might have to explore adding on to mine in a similar way at some point, if nothing else to create two circuits (one for the front, one for the rear).

 

[BOOGIE MAN]

If you'd like specific info on how I built mine, I'd be happy to share the details.

Basically, I installed 12-volt ball solenoids to divert flow from either the front or rear systems. The front system uses a pump, pump voltage regulator, and H.E. with fans. The rear has an 11-gallon tank, pump and voltage booster, no H.E.

The front system is the default. To switch to the rear, I flip a switch. The furthest right switch on my upper console. >>
View attachment 1685593

This pic shows the control for voltage for both systems. >>
View attachment 1685594

The top left knob (with the blue digital display) allows me to adjust voltage to the front pump. For general all-around driving, I found that 9.5 volts gives the best cooling. The top right knob (with the red digital display) controls the voltage booster that powers my rear pump. Because it does not have an H.E., the best cooling is with max volts, about 17.5v. Ignore the other variable knob with green voltage display. It controls my methanol system.

In the trunk, I've added a couple of things besides the pump (not shown). It includes a slightly tinted acrylic access panel with a "few" goodies. This pic shows a portion of it. >>
View attachment 1685595

Willie

Damn man, that is beyond awesome


"Nothing makes me question ALL of my life decisions like SVTP."

Posts and likes are not mine.

 

[Willie]

Thanks guys. If you need any additional info including specifics, message me and I'll be glad to help.

This pic is how it all started for me, a crude sketch of my idea. I hope it helps get you started, if you decide to go this route. >>

Willie

 

[Catmonkey]

Willie, I know you posted pics of the t connector shut off valves, but could you post them again?

 

[Willie]

At the time I put this system together, I used four motorized ball valves, two normally open and two normally closed, with 1/2" NPT / 3/4" hose barb adapters.

Years later, I replaced one of the normally closed valves with a simple, mechanical (non-electric) gravity flapper valve.

But today, I'd use a pair of 3-way valves which were not available back in the day. However, these have an 8-second transition period, so I would have to build an electrical circuit that delays the turn-on time of the appropriate pump by at least 8 seconds. >>

These are all 12-volt DC and available from a guy who goes by "valves4projects" on ebay.

Willie

 

[biminiLX]

Love it Willie.
Mine is very similar but without the valves.
And by similar I mean one stock ‘13-14 on ach side of the system just like yours.
I left the stock pump as is up front and just added a second at the tank discharge.
-J

 

[Willie]

J,
Thanks and I really like your idea too.

Willie