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Popping in front suspension

Discussion in 'New Edge Cobras' started by 01SVTSnake, Feb 3, 2009.

  1. 01SVTSnake

    01SVTSnake Thud Thud Thud Thud Thud Established Member

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    sorry for the lack of update on my end. The one thing that appears to be my problem is the bumpsteer was not correctly set and it seems 1 wheel is possibly turning out more than the others. Either that or i got a bad set of X2 Balljoints. I have been pretty busy at work and all. Tomorrow i should be able to supply some pictures
     
  2. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    OK just got done with the install.



    Report is, this completely fixed it. There is absolutely no more popping noises and I did full lock reverse circles in the parking lot for about 5 minutes lol. It still seems to "skip" a little bit but I'm pretty sure that the bumpsteer is off. I'll probably do that this afternoon and report back this evening.



    Steering sure feels a little more solid now. :)
     
  3. 01SVTSnake

    01SVTSnake Thud Thud Thud Thud Thud Established Member

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    Good to hear. My car has 72K on it so it probably won't hurt to do these.

    Did you go with center drilled or offset?
     
  4. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    What a disappointment. I totally stripped the hell out of one of my bumpsteer "rods". I'll have to take it into the shop tomorrow and straighten it right the hell back out.


    And fwiw, I decided that I needed a little more bump "in" and shimmed it accordingly. In other words the outer tie rod end link sits parallel with the control arm. My outer tie rod end link was a little higher before.



    MM says your only supposed to use offset with an aftermarket K. Otherwise they offer way to much "drop" if you know what I mean. Basically your supposed to use a bumpsteer kit.



    Will report back tomorrow. :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  5. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    :fm:

    S5030723.gif


    :cuss:
    S5030726.gif


    :mj:
    S5030742.gif


    :bash:
     
  6. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    I am happy to report I got this thing nailed down. :beer:


    The popping noise from reverse turns came from the shot rack bushings, and the skidding antics was from incorrectly set bumpsteer. :beer: to fourvalvegt, and I'll admit I've read stuff like that on here before(yeah, yeah) but when I put the bumpsteer kit on way back when I just eyeballed it til it looked parallel.


    Tonight, I actually measured it with a ruler and it was 1/4" off. :bash:


    I shimmed in a little bit of bump "in" to get it perfectly parallel, which, subsequently, was exactly 2.5" from the bottom of the control arm to the bottom of the tie rod, and what a huuuge difference in the little high speed run I just took. It wandered so bad before but I just thought it was the super soft suspension. Now it takes 2 fingers on the wheel to keep it steady at 140. (I live in the middle of nowhere:))



    That and solid rack bushings have made a very noticeable difference. Thanks for the thread 01SvtSnake. :beer:


    Here's a pic of the bumpsteer "rod" and the shims. Forgive me it was dark out and the car was on the ground. It sits low with fox 2.3 springs. :bored:


    S5030746.gif


    I used the two largest shims to get it perfectly parallel...


    Questions, comments go....:D
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  7. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    Damn, this thread was about rack bushings, wasn't it?

    S5030748.gif


    Lol yeaaah, they were pretty easy to put in.
     
  8. 01SVTSnake

    01SVTSnake Thud Thud Thud Thud Thud Established Member

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    well its about popping front suspension, but the rack bushings seemed to help so what the hell :beer:

    Probably going to order the Rack bushings tonight. You may have posted it but how bad was the install on the rack bushings?
     
  9. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    They were pretty easy haha. Pull the sleeves out and cut the ends of them off.


    18 and 15 mm sockets for the rack, 12 I think for the steering shaft.


    Put the rack bolts in from the back WITHOUT THEIR WASHERS instead of from the front like they come from the factory. Toss the washers.


    I will stress again though, the sliding across the pavement is from your incorrect bumpsteer. You'll measure that with a ruler but it's probably going to be the 2 biggest shims you have, just like mine were and just like you can see in the photo.
     
  10. fourvalvegt

    fourvalvegt New Member Established Member

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    don't forget too when you change your bumpsteer it can effect your toe. some alignment shops will check your alignment for free and just charge you if they have to make adjustments
     
  11. b dub

    b dub 4.10's or 4.30's??!! Established Member

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    Damn right. It threw mine way off and made it understeer baaad. :nonono:


    It's worth to mention also my car would kinda "lift" up and down as I moved from steering lock to lock with it idling at a stop. Now that's completely gone.
     
  12. SVTContique

    SVTContique New Member

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    Looks like i'll be ordering the rack bushings and some ball joints.

    My car makes the popping/BANG noise under hard braking and during some turning. I didnt quite know what it was and it was starting to make me nervous. Nice to know its not a hard fix.
     
  13. gmsux

    gmsux Denial ain't just a river Established Member

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    Unless bumpsteer is properly measured with one of these:
    http://www.ogracing.com/images/products/327-LONGACRE-BUMP-STEER-GAUGE.jpg

    You're just guessing. Tie rod being level has nothing to do with correct bumpsteer. It might be better than it was but really mearsuring and dialing the change in toe to under 20thou per inch travel is what the goal is. You can further tailor bumpsteer by making it toe out with bump and toe in with droop.

    Bumpsteer affects caster btw, not toe. You should align first to get the caster set then bumpsteer as the hieght of the tie rod relative to the ball joint is what changes the bumpsteer.
     

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