PP Electronic Shock resistors

RazorGTP

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Have any of you sucessfully done this? I’ve read peoples theories on adding a resistor to each shock plug to fool the car into thinking the shocks are plugged in. I want to try this.
 

RazorGTP

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Have you ohmed out the shock yet

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What does that mean?

With the correct plug end you could do a dummy plug like a 02 sensor eliminator

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Ok has anyone ever done this or is it just theory and will I be the first? Yes I was thinking like an 02 sim. What plug end to get etc? I am not an electrical engineer. Lol
 

RazorGTP

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It looks like the resistance needs to be between 2.8 to 4.5 ohms to be in the range that the vdm needs to see to not set a light .

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Ok, so you would have to buy a resistor in that range and insert it into a plug end? If so, do we know which plug end we would need, a part number?
 

biminiLX

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The dampers default to stiff if unplugged so you’re wanting to have front loose (put suspension in normal) and unplug rears but have resistor in the stock connector. That way front will be loose and rear stiff and make sure to use a bias ply to do the work.
I’ve talked to Bilstein and Kelly at BMR and I think we can get the stock dual mode dampers revalved to do what we want—street and strip setting controlled by factory button much like Dodge Demon.
I’ve opened 2 offices over the last 2 summers and just haven’t have a chance to make this project work, BUT I think our cars dual mode suspension can be optimized.
It may not be like 10 way Vikings, but much better.
I’m down for helping get this done if someone has time to take the lead.
Basically I have a full spare set of stock Bilstein dampers and a name at Bilstein who can revalve while rebuilding. With some insight from Kelly at BMR and the Bilstein engineer who worked with SRT on the Demon, we could have both a street and strip setting.
Another option is finding an aftermarket company that builds a dual mode damper that could be triggered by the stock electronics.
I consider my ‘14 a lifer car andplan to keep whittling away at making it a street>strip monster that can drive to track and run 9s easy stick while keeping great street manners.
-J
 

RazorGTP

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The dampers default to stiff if unplugged so you’re wanting to have front loose (put suspension in normal) and unplug rears but have resistor in the stock connector. That way front will be loose and rear stiff and make sure to use a bias ply to do the work.
I’ve talked to Bilstein and Kelly at BMR and I think we can get the stock dual mode dampers revalved to do what we want—street and strip setting controlled by factory button much like Dodge Demon.
I’ve opened 2 offices over the last 2 summers and just haven’t have a chance to make this project work, BUT I think our cars dual mode suspension can be optimized.
It may not be like 10 way Vikings, but much better.
I’m down for helping get this done if someone has time to take the lead.
Basically I have a full spare set of stock Bilstein dampers and a name at Bilstein who can revalve while rebuilding. With some insight from Kelly at BMR and the Bilstein engineer who worked with SRT on the Demon, we could have both a street and strip setting.
Another option is finding an aftermarket company that builds a dual mode damper that could be triggered by the stock electronics.
I consider my ‘14 a lifer car andplan to keep whittling away at making it a street>strip monster that can drive to track and run 9s easy stick while keeping great street manners.
-J

Excellent! Yes that would be the ideal setup definitely! But until that can come to fruition I sure would like to have 2 resistors in place!
 

Snoopy49

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It's like BiminiLX said, you unplug the PP shocks and they default to the Sport (go-cart) mode.
Are you replacing the shocks?

Solenoid coil resistance should be between 2.8 an 4.5 ohms.

From the 2014 Factory Service Manual:

Vehicle Dynamic Suspension

The VDM is connected to the HS-CAN to communicate with the ABS module, the PCM and other systems. The VDM also monitors the solenoid circuits and sets DTCs when a concern with a circuit or a solenoid is detected. The ride control switch is hardwired to the PCM. Pressing the switch sends a signal to the PCM which then sends a message to the IPC over the HS-CAN . The IPC relays that message to the VDM and the VDM adjusts the valve solenoids as requested.

The two modes are Sport (off) and Normal (on). Normal mode is activated by applying constant voltage and varying the PWM duty cycle to get the desired current. When the current is applied, the solenoid magnet opens a sliding valve allowing fluid to flow through the "comfort" piston. This results in a more compliant (softer) suspension feel. Sport mode is activated by removing the voltage from the valve solenoid.

During an ESC event, the ABS module will send messages to the VDM over the HS-CAN requesting suspension adjustment to aid in maintaining vehicle stability. Also, the VDM will monitor vehicle speed and when a certain vehicle speed is achieved, the VDM will change to sport mode to aid in maintaining vehicle stability.


Component Description

Vehicle Dynamics Module (VDM)

The VDM monitors inputs and HS-CAN messages that relate to the vehicle dynamic suspension and then directly controls the valve solenoids. The VDM sends an individual electrical current to each valve solenoid to control the amount of damping required.

When a new VDM is installed, the module must be programmed with the vehicle configuration information.

Valve Solenoid

The valve solenoid is a PWM controlled solenoid that controls a sliding valve inside the damper.

Ride Control Switch

The ride control switch is a bank of 3 press and release switches, one is for suspension, one is for steering and one is for launch control.
 

RazorGTP

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It's like BiminiLX said, you unplug the PP shocks and they default to the Sport (go-cart) mode.
Are you replacing the shocks?

Solenoid coil resistance should be between 2.8 an 4.5 ohms.

From the 2014 Factory Service Manual:

Vehicle Dynamic Suspension

The VDM is connected to the HS-CAN to communicate with the ABS module, the PCM and other systems. The VDM also monitors the solenoid circuits and sets DTCs when a concern with a circuit or a solenoid is detected. The ride control switch is hardwired to the PCM. Pressing the switch sends a signal to the PCM which then sends a message to the IPC over the HS-CAN . The IPC relays that message to the VDM and the VDM adjusts the valve solenoids as requested.

The two modes are Sport (off) and Normal (on). Normal mode is activated by applying constant voltage and varying the PWM duty cycle to get the desired current. When the current is applied, the solenoid magnet opens a sliding valve allowing fluid to flow through the "comfort" piston. This results in a more compliant (softer) suspension feel. Sport mode is activated by removing the voltage from the valve solenoid.

During an ESC event, the ABS module will send messages to the VDM over the HS-CAN requesting suspension adjustment to aid in maintaining vehicle stability. Also, the VDM will monitor vehicle speed and when a certain vehicle speed is achieved, the VDM will change to sport mode to aid in maintaining vehicle stability.


Component Description

Vehicle Dynamics Module (VDM)

The VDM monitors inputs and HS-CAN messages that relate to the vehicle dynamic suspension and then directly controls the valve solenoids. The VDM sends an individual electrical current to each valve solenoid to control the amount of damping required.

When a new VDM is installed, the module must be programmed with the vehicle configuration information.

Valve Solenoid

The valve solenoid is a PWM controlled solenoid that controls a sliding valve inside the damper.

Ride Control Switch

The ride control switch is a bank of 3 press and release switches, one is for suspension, one is for steering and one is for launch control.

Very cool thanks Snoopy! The goal is for launching to be able to keep the rear in sport mode and the front in normal. Yes I realize if ones unplugged it defaults to sport mode and they all need to be plugged in to complete the circuit. Hence whhy I’d like two resistors for the rear ones.
 

RazorGTP

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Ok still trying to figure this out. Put a meter on it and it showed 10ohms so stuck a resistor in there. It seemed to do the trick, until I move then you can see what happens in the vid.


Every stop light it goes to normal then once you start moving it flickers and stays in sport. I pulled the resistors and hooked up the stock shocks and set them in the trunk, same thing happens now.

Any suggestions or spec info on these shocks? Snoopy?
 
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merkyworks

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Perhaps a stupid thought but maybe the resistor was breaking connection while the car was moving and thats why you were getting the strange behavior....IDK.
 

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