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Discussion in 'Driveline' started by 04sleeper, Nov 27, 2010.
He had to bite the bullet with the new Whipple he got that utilizes a SBTB.
did you get a free shirt now that you've spent more $$? :read:
To be honest, I never checked the stock one. I just pulled it out.
I checked like the instructions told me. Between .020 and .025.
Yeah. The newer blower has a single blade TB. I wish someone like L&M would come out with a nice "High Flow" dual. I still feel the driveability is better with them. I hope the Billetflow doesn't give me any trouble. (If it ever gets here! )
LMAO. You must have been talking to Brandon. Yeah, Matt is going to send me one after I asked about it.
lucky you!!! looks like you got full colour instructions.
I got a single peice of photocopied paper,that said nothin about checking freeplay.
Other than that Im really happy with the clutch,by far the best clutch Ive ever used!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Funny. The instructions are almost as useless as the paper they are printed on. They conflict with the instructions online and when I called Mcleod the guy that answered the Tech line was cluless! He said that I would have to keep pulling the transmission out and keep adjusting the pivot ball as the clutch wears. I was like who is going to pull their transmission out over and over again as the clutch is wearing??? :dw: :??: Then I was like what about my firewall adjuster making the adjustment for this?
Anyway it was a useless call none the less.
I put the transmission back in with the stock pivot ball and it sits perfect!
I did take off the stock weight on the clutch fork.
The throw out bearing sits perfect on the pressure plate and will wear just perfect. The angle was perfect as well.
Anyway, I got the transmission bolted in tonight. I would have not been able to do it so easy without a tranny jack. (Thanks Erik! :beer
Here is the tranny jack I used. I think he bought it from Harbour Freight.
And here is the tranny all bolted back up in the car!
Next up, the driveshaft and exhaust! Then I can get the car back on the ground and finish it up!
Awesome bro looks good! You'll be up and running in no time!
What's the deal with the weight on the fork any way?
It makes room for the fork to move back further for more adjustment
(mine would not adjust properly with it still on the fork)
You are lucky!!!! good instructions,pivot ball lined right up.
I had to use the adj pivot and my tranny went in an out 3 times before getting the specs right.
I hear on the tech situation,pull the tranny to adj clutch.First I heard of that lol
You will love this clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It slips when you want it to,it GRABS! when you want it to,absolutely no chatter and
light pedal pressure.
Here's a question for you Kevin since you have some good clutch knowledge....I have the firewall adjuster, quadrant, and freeplay mod and I still have a little bit of loose pedal play (even when I adjust with the firewall adjuster). Do you think this may be an issue with the pivot ball??
Not really sure. I belive it may have something to do with the feel of the clutch or some sort of dampener.
Weird. I pulled it off anyway because a trusted friend told me he never uses the when putting any aftermarket clutch in. It would have cleared with it in though.
Awesome man! That's what I am hoping for as well.
I don't think so. I do not believe in the "Freeplay Mod". The factory throw out bearing is a constant spinning bearing. The factory clutch quadrant adjusts for a slight amount of pre-load on the TOB. This is done through a spring adjuster on the factory pawl to work with the stock quadrant. As the clutch wears the factory pedal needs to be pulled from the back forward. You will hear the adjuster "Click" if the clutch needed to be adjusted. When you go with an aftermarket firewall adjuster the automatic aqdjuster gets discarded so you now have to manually adjust the preload on the TOB. It only needs a very little bit of pressure to do this and should just ride on the fingers.
I know this is a heavly debated topic but I do not believe that the bearing should not touch the fingers. With a freeplay mod the bearing does not touch the fingers. So every time you engauge the clutch the bearing goes from zero RPM'S to whatever RPM's the car is at in a split second. This drags on the face of the TOB over and over again and again. Imagine shifting at 6500 RPM's and the bearing is stopped the bearing will have to slip before it can start spinning. This will cause constant wear on the face of the bearing and can cause the bearing to overheat and fail. I think the freeplay mod will wear the bearing out faster than without it.
I have been running my TOB's this way since the mid 90's when quadrants and firewall adjusters first came out and I have never had a problem with a TOB going out early.
Sorry for the lengthly explanation. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the write-up. This is the clutch replacing my Spec3+
Looking good Kevin. Get that thing on the road.
I finally drove mine yesterday for the first time. A slight bit of chatter but otherwise feels nice. Definitely different than the stock clutch. I did notice after a 25 mile drive that my starter makes a little noise on disengagement. The crazy thing is, I started the car several times before letting it down to MAKE SURE the starter was quiet. I assume the heat after driving has something to do with it and I also installed the QuickTime bellhousing, so I'm sure the starter hole isn't exactly the same as the stock bell housing.
Now.....for any of you vendors out there reading this, PLEASE make sure your instructions are very detailed. You only have to take the time to do it once, and then its just making copies. It's one thing to have to remove an interior part to make a change, but its a whole other to have to remove the transmission because YOU forgot to mention in your instructions that someone should use a feeler gauge to check clutch disk tolerances on a $900 clutch. :fm:
The twin disk has more length than a regular single,therefor the fork needs to be able to move farther back for proper adjustment and throw.By removing the lead weight it allows the fork to move farther back to accomidate for the taller TD clutch.
Don't be sorry, that was a great read!! So what mods do you have for your clutch? Just a firewall adjuster or no?
I agree and the only way to get it all lined back up correctly is to shorten the pivot ball.
Yes I used the adj pivot ball,I dont remember the exact measurements but I think it was 3 or 4mm shorter than stock.
Amen to that!!!!!
NP. I think this clutch will be a nice replacement. :thumbsup:
I would love to but I am waiting on a throttle body from Billetflow. I was told they were in stock when I ordered it but I guess not. If it takes too much longer I will cancel the order and get something else.
Must be the bellhousing. I am still running the stock bellhousing and stock starter/flywheel so I don't anticipate any issues. Good to hear results so far. :thumbsup:
My instructions said to check. :shrug: But the torque specs were different.
I did remove the weight, but it would have been fine with it still on there. It had plenty of room.
Fiore firewall adjuster and quadrant and stock cable.
Mine aligned perfect with the stock ball.