67scstang said:
No. I just noticed it on their web page tonight. A few days ago they only offered 0W-20. Hopefully it won't be long before it arrives in the stores.
Pro's of using Mobil 1 5w30 over 0w20?
- Thread starter DitchTehFish
- Start date
No. I just noticed it on their web page tonight. A few days ago they only offered 0W-20. Hopefully it won't be long before it arrives in the stores.
:beer: Hi guys. Can I play too?
First off, no oil gets thicker as it gets hotter. The oil gets thinner. What increases the viscosity is the polymers expanding (uncoiling) as they get hotter. Polymers enable manufacturers to produce "multi-grade" oil. Whatever the first number in the designation (0, 10, 20, etc.) is the actual grade of the oil in that container. The second number is the viscosity equivalent of that oil at 100 degC. The higher the second number, the greater the amount of polymers added to the oil.
Many individuals apply fossil characteristics to synthetic oil. They are completely different products. Synthetics contain no parafins, no ash, and their flash points are much, much higher. Due to the high flash points, loss of shear film at high temperatures (a huge concern with fossil oils), is a non-factor with synthetics. This is why the automobile manufacturers have no hesitation recommending 0 & 5 weight oils.
First off, no oil gets thicker as it gets hotter. The oil gets thinner. What increases the viscosity is the polymers expanding (uncoiling) as they get hotter. Polymers enable manufacturers to produce "multi-grade" oil. Whatever the first number in the designation (0, 10, 20, etc.) is the actual grade of the oil in that container. The second number is the viscosity equivalent of that oil at 100 degC. The higher the second number, the greater the amount of polymers added to the oil.
Many individuals apply fossil characteristics to synthetic oil. They are completely different products. Synthetics contain no parafins, no ash, and their flash points are much, much higher. Due to the high flash points, loss of shear film at high temperatures (a huge concern with fossil oils), is a non-factor with synthetics. This is why the automobile manufacturers have no hesitation recommending 0 & 5 weight oils.
I would use the 5W-30 or even 10W-30 if I were you! Being that you're in Cali using the 0W serves you no benefit at all. OW is good in regions that gets close to or goes under the freezing mark (32*). IMHO, I would be more concerned about the viscosity level than the weight! Meaning, I would never use a 20 v. level oil in my motor regardless of what SVT has in their manual.
I-CAN-STANG said:
Damn dude, you might want to change your opinion or we might actually agree on something for once. :banana:
oh no! :coolman:evil04cobra said:
By all means, come on in and play. You seem like a nice old man. Thanks for the help.oldnfast said:
How you feel about extended drain intervals with synthetics?
I change every 5K on my other vehicles. According to what I've read in numerous places, that's probably overkill. But, I just can't bring myself to let either the oil or the filter go 10-12K. I can still see through the oil after 5K.
I don't go the 5K on the snakemobile. It's 2 years old this February & only has 9K miles. I'm on my third oil change & 5th filter (I always change the filter after a day at the strip). I wouldn't change the oil so often but for the fact that it sits for long periods. Condensation concerns me as most of the down time is in the winter. :thumbsup:
I don't go the 5K on the snakemobile. It's 2 years old this February & only has 9K miles. I'm on my third oil change & 5th filter (I always change the filter after a day at the strip). I wouldn't change the oil so often but for the fact that it sits for long periods. Condensation concerns me as most of the down time is in the winter. :thumbsup:
What about the dispersant and detergent additives and oxidation inhibitors?? I mean they work whether the oil is circulated or sitting in the pan. Do you evr consider changing your oil every three months just so the additive package stays optimized??
Nah. I talked to a Amsoil tech at a car show. He showed me some results of a couple of studies they've done. For the most part, it seems that the additives degenerate in direct proportion how dirty the engine is. I don't know how true that is. I've never gone that deep into it. It would seem that would be true for the detergents.
Pre-synthetics, I used to change the oil every 6 months in the cars that mostly sat around. They always seemed to do quite well.
Pre-synthetics, I used to change the oil every 6 months in the cars that mostly sat around. They always seemed to do quite well.
oldnfast said:
See, I've heard that isn't true, because carbon and dispersants don't get along, and there is always going to be carbon present in the engine. So the dispersants are always trying to break down and isolate the carbon.
Anyway, no biggie, just wanted to see what you thought about it.
5w20 is what Ford tells me to use, so that's what I'm using. 5k mile intervals are also what they recommend, so that's what I'm doing.
Anything else is just subject to personal opinion and not worth the time to debate about it.
Anything else is just subject to personal opinion and not worth the time to debate about it.
It is when they are providing the warranty for it.
StngStr said:
You choose what you want it's your car but I only used ford's blend crap for either 5-6k can't remember, but full synthetic oil is always better then any conventional oil. Ford does offer a full 5w20 synthetic oil but its way over priced at least at my dealership and it's also illegal for them to not warrantee a car based on the type/brand of oil you use. I may go to the mobil1 5w20 full synthetic oil once it hits the shelves but for now I’m sticking with my mobil1 5w30 as if anything it will protect better and is made for more high performance vehicles. Just my 2cents I’m by no means an oil expert.
Saw a case of Mobil 1 5W-20 at Pep Boys yesterday.67scstang said:
Last edited:
Anyone know what the static "weight" of 0-20 is when its sitting in a crankcase of a cold engine at 65-70 degrees? If its designed to be 0 weight in a cold climate of 0 degrees, will a 65-70 degree increase cause it to "thicken" to 5 wt? Likewise on the other end, once engine is warmed up, will 30 wt cause problems?
Oil debates are truly fascinating but I have never heard an argument to convince me one way or another on the viscosity issue, at least when comparing an 0-20 to a 5-30. Though hard to believe, there is one Cobra owner who posts here who did lose an engine and did have warranty denied based on oil in the crankcase (denial was overturned after a long legal challenge), so warranty concerns are real. FWIW I use the motorcraft blend and change it very often (probably every two thousand miles or every other event as this seems to be when the oil starts to change color).
Oil debates are truly fascinating but I have never heard an argument to convince me one way or another on the viscosity issue, at least when comparing an 0-20 to a 5-30. Though hard to believe, there is one Cobra owner who posts here who did lose an engine and did have warranty denied based on oil in the crankcase (denial was overturned after a long legal challenge), so warranty concerns are real. FWIW I use the motorcraft blend and change it very often (probably every two thousand miles or every other event as this seems to be when the oil starts to change color).
GT Lawyer said:
Not to get off topic, but thats a sexy looking bottle, lolz.
Do you know what oil he was using?5500 said:
Don't remember, but failure was production related, not oil related.
Users who are viewing this thread
