First off wanna thank Motor City Terminators member for coming out to help today.
JP
MidLifeC
Blownshift
Whipplecharged Sonic
T-Bone
bnmestrouse
mjzilinski
We got the stock k pulled and the QA1 K and a-arms installed.
Couple notes;
1) The K did not need the amount removed that THP suggested. A smaller cut on the pass side top plate would have sufficed and cleared the frame. No biggie, it was not enough to affect structural integrity.
2) Steering Rack is in the way for removing stock a-arm bolts, easier to pull it first.
3) The QA1 K is about 1/2 wider per side at the points where the A-Arms mount. The plumb bob hung about that distance outboard from the dots the stock k indicated. I hope the QA1 a-arms are shorter than stock or it is gonna shove the wheels out that distance.
Front-to-back it lined up within 1/16th
4) You have to cut the flange off the a-arm pivot bolts on at least two adjoining flats. Fit is very tight going into the QA1 K but the modified stock bolts do work.
5) QA1 K leaves tons of clearance for Canton Oil pan.
6) It is possible to get the drivers side cam cover off without pulling the brake booster. Just leave the pass motor mount nut on out to the end and lift up with the crane. Motor will rotate the drivers side up and allow removal. Lazy, didn't feel like messing with the brakes and dang if it didn't work.
Other than that we went by MM instructions for there K as a crutch. Air tools helped out a lot. Great day of wrenching in preperation for the turbos/IC arrival mid-next week.
Pics of the guys, my new seats, cam covers and my 5k miles Crower Stage 3 cams.
K pics, my used nicks bushings which were binding (being replaced by MM full set)
and one very disassembled car.
JP
MidLifeC
Blownshift
Whipplecharged Sonic
T-Bone
bnmestrouse
mjzilinski
We got the stock k pulled and the QA1 K and a-arms installed.
Couple notes;
1) The K did not need the amount removed that THP suggested. A smaller cut on the pass side top plate would have sufficed and cleared the frame. No biggie, it was not enough to affect structural integrity.
2) Steering Rack is in the way for removing stock a-arm bolts, easier to pull it first.
3) The QA1 K is about 1/2 wider per side at the points where the A-Arms mount. The plumb bob hung about that distance outboard from the dots the stock k indicated. I hope the QA1 a-arms are shorter than stock or it is gonna shove the wheels out that distance.
Front-to-back it lined up within 1/16th
4) You have to cut the flange off the a-arm pivot bolts on at least two adjoining flats. Fit is very tight going into the QA1 K but the modified stock bolts do work.
5) QA1 K leaves tons of clearance for Canton Oil pan.
6) It is possible to get the drivers side cam cover off without pulling the brake booster. Just leave the pass motor mount nut on out to the end and lift up with the crane. Motor will rotate the drivers side up and allow removal. Lazy, didn't feel like messing with the brakes and dang if it didn't work.
Other than that we went by MM instructions for there K as a crutch. Air tools helped out a lot. Great day of wrenching in preperation for the turbos/IC arrival mid-next week.
Pics of the guys, my new seats, cam covers and my 5k miles Crower Stage 3 cams.
K pics, my used nicks bushings which were binding (being replaced by MM full set)
and one very disassembled car.
