Question for the convertible owners...

[stangbuff]

Prior to installing my Hans Racecraft full length subs my Vert was rattle free…flexible yes but rattle free. Since the install the doors rattle on their posts to the point I’m wedging stuff between them to keep them quiet. The doors have been adjusted as much as they can be so I’m out of options there. My questions for the Vert owners who’ve installed SFC’s are: A) which mfg did you install (MM, etc); and B) are you experiencing the same symptoms now that the chassis has been stiffened?

The door rattling and TOB squeaking has me shopping for a new GT or GT 500. While that’s admittedly a nice problem to have the truth is I love this car. I’m more than happy to spend money to rectify the problem however if through the floor or MM full length subs aren’t going to change anything it’s a mute point. I’ve only got a week or so to make a decision on ordering a new GT from the factory so I’d appreciate any feedback provided. Thanks!

 

[Un4GivN]

Don't say shit like that.. My MMFLSFC will be here any day now.. You may have to wait a couple days for my input.

 

[006]

My driver side door alsol rattles at the hinge..and the rubbers by the window DO squeak as well. I've been adjusting the hinge to try and get it perfect and it's still driving me nuts.

For a consolation thought, my GF's 04 Terminator has the stock factory subframes and her driver's door has the same rattle at the hinge and rubber squeak but eventually I'll have a fix for them pretty soon.

 

[yosemiddysam]

Is the door bushings worn out? They are fairly easy to change. Harder to get out then back in though. Mine dont rattle at all. I have the factory sub frame connectors too. Also did you install the SFC? If not are you sure that when they were welded in that the car had weight on all 4 wheels? If they were welded in without the car supporting its own weight it might have messed it up.

 

[01vert]

My Drivers doo rattled before and after install. Dont understand how adding them could have made the problem appear. Did they use a drive on lift? You could use a rubber bumper epoxied at some point in the door jamb that makes contact with the door to quiet it. Experiment with taping it in place. Just an idea.


Have you tried a body shop to adjust the doors?

 

[stangbuff]

The subs were "professionally" installed; however it doesn't mean they couldn't have done something wrong. The passenger side door (which rattles the easiest) isn't pulled as tight to the frame as the driver side. The bushings are fine; an SVT dealer has played with the doors and can't improve them. I'm still tempted to have these subs cut off and MM's installed in their place (the Hans are heavy). I'm wondering if going to wider and heavier wheel/tire combo (AFS '03's w/10" rears) might have been a contributing factor as well.

I had thought about trying the rubber bumper technique. If done correctly a couple could be added high and low; that might do the trick. I'll have to experiment with it more. To tell the truth the incessant squeaking of the throw out bearing is far more annoying...particularly since the clutch is fine and I have no need to drop the tranny.

Thanks for the input all.

 

[srl135]

my vert has all sorts of rattles in the vert top motor assembly and sometimes drives me absolutely nuts!!! I wish like hell I could stop them from making so much noise, but i havent heard good things about fixing that. I think that perhaps your SFCs were installed incorrectly if it made things worse by body flex, because on jackstands alone, the frame and body lines dont match up like the do when the suspension is loaded

 

[SlowSVT]

The subs were "professionally" installed; however it doesn't mean they couldn't have done something wrong. The passenger side door (which rattles the easiest) isn't pulled as tight to the frame as the driver side. The bushings are fine; an SVT dealer has played with the doors and can't improve them. I'm still tempted to have these subs cut off and MM's installed in their place (the Hans are heavy). I'm wondering if going to wider and heavier wheel/tire combo (AFS '03's w/10" rears) might have been a contributing factor as well.

I had thought about trying the rubber bumper technique. If done correctly a couple could be added high and low; that might do the trick. I'll have to experiment with it more. To tell the truth the incessant squeaking of the throw out bearing is far more annoying...particularly since the clutch is fine and I have no need to drop the tranny.

Thanks for the input all.

Did they weld the subs in with "weight on the wheels"? You never stated if they did or not. One guy in a vert used a body lift when welding in his Hans and after the install the door wouldn't close. He had to cut them out and swore never to get a set of Hans again. I have then in my coup and they are the only subs I would run epper: with my next choice would be Golden West.

Perhaps your door(s) hinges need adjustment.

Regardless whether you installed sub-frame connectors, the upper body structure on a vert is still unsupported. You have stiffened up the floor pan but the dash/window section is still cantilever off the rockers (same goes for a back half). The body structure in the coup is scary enough.

A vert :uh oh:

 

[SVTRocket]

Did they weld the subs in with "weight on the wheels"? You never stated if they did or not.

+1
Gotta be installed right

MM FLSFC on my '01 and no problems

 

[CDADEUCE06]

Installed the MM FLSFC no problems, also car feels tigher.

 

[Un4GivN]

My FLSFC came in today, HOPEFULLY installed tomorrow.. I'll give you my input asap.

 

[Un4GivN]

Alright, had the MM FLSFC welded in today, 500% better! To the OP, no rattles whatsoever on my end. Wheel hop is GONE!

 

[srl135]

how are the rattles and squeaks and all that damn noise that accompanies the vert (at least with the top up) now with a stiffer ride? ...and i sure hope everyones is like that and not just mine.

 

[lowflyn]

I have the KB double subframes with matrix bracing and jacking rails, the only downside I've found to mine is a light chassis shutter over light bumps..but I deal with it.

 

[BadaBing]

Maximum Motorsports FLSFC here, zero rattles or problems, huge improvement. Sorry I can't help

 

[Playtme]

I had the Kenny brown matrix system on 01 GT vert and it was great you could really feel the difference. We had a weird driveway that twisted the car, subs worked great no rattles.
With the 01 Cobra I got the mm flsfc, just as good tightened everything right up. No rattles or squeeks, doors work just fine. The MM subs and a 4 wheel alignment got rid of 95% of my wheel-hop.

 

[Un4GivN]

how are the rattles and squeaks and all that damn noise that accompanies the vert (at least with the top up) now with a stiffer ride? ...and i sure hope everyones is like that and not just mine.

Before the install I used to get a bit of rattle where the top latches when going over bumps, that's also 95% gone.

 

[srl135]

no most of my rattles are in the actual mechanics of the vert top, all the supports and structural 'skeleton' of the top that you really cant get to without removing body panels and seats.

 

[brkntrxn]

1. From driver's seat, extend right arm towards dash
2. Turn on radio
3. Adjust volume until squeaks, rattles, pops, etc. cannot be heard

oke:

Let us know what cures the noises.

 

[stangbuff]

1. From driver's seat, extend right arm towards dash
2. Turn on radio
3. Adjust volume until squeaks, rattles, pops, etc. cannot be heard

oke:

Let us know what cures the noises.

And drown out the exhaust note? No way...the radio never gets turned on; a radio delete option would have been just fine with me. ;-) Based on all the responses I suspect the subs weren't installed properly even though the car allegedly had weight on the wheels at the time.

I have come up with a cure however; we're buying a Mineral Grey '05 GT 'vert with 5100 miles on it. This one will be sold soon...sure going to miss it when it's gone though.

Thanks to all who responded! :beer: