Questions on putting stock 96-98 return style rails on 99/01 intake??

[Rock777]

Long story short is I have a 97 with an 03 longblock. The fuel system is still the stock return style and I'm putting stock 97 rails on and selling my aeromotive stuff to free up a little cash since I'm N/A. The intake is obviously a 99/01 style, so I was wondering what some of you have done to modify the brackets for the 97 rails to mount to the 99/01 intake?

Also, it seems the rails are going to take a little flexing of the rubber connecting lines to get them to line up on the injectors. Is this normal or have the rails possibly got a little out of shape from sitting on the shelf of a car for a year? I can flex them to conform some, but don't want to kink or bend where it inhibits fuel flow.

Any experience or input on this topic is greatly appreciated....

Here are some pics of the rails, you can kind of see how offset each injector port is from the one on opposite rail (as in they are staggered a tad more than normal I believe)

 

[Mustang Matt]

This thread might be useful to you:
Need help: Going to buy 97 Cobra with mods but doesn't start - Corral Forums

 

[b dub]

You have to cut off the brackets and re-weld them on. The hose nipples will bend rather easily without kinking. 2 new pieces of fuel injection hose are cheap, though. Just buy new ones.

 

[Rock777]

You have to cut off the brackets and re-weld them on. The hose nipples will bend rather easily without kinking. 2 new pieces of fuel injection hose are cheap, though. Just buy new ones.

I am going to try to figure a way to make it work without welding if possible, as that would delay me finishing longer because I don't have a welder.
I've never bought fuel injection hose before, but I'm assuming they'd have it at an auto parts store and is just a little thicker/stronger than fuel line? The rails are low mileage, so I'm going to try to bend first so see if I can get close enough. Since there are no clamps holding the hose on, I assumed there is an adhesive that I would have to cut through and clean that I'm sure is pretty strong.

 

[Mustang Matt]

I don't see how you could do it without welding new brackets. If you come up with something there might be a market for it because this topic comes up fairly frequently.

 

[Rock777]

This thread might be useful to you:
Need help: Going to buy 97 Cobra with mods but doesn't start - Corral Forums

Thank you, I did see that thread too and it did instill a little bit of confidence since several people have made this work. Now just need to go DO IT.

 

[Mustang Matt]

I didn't realize you were local. Are you on STLM as well?

 

[Rock777]

I didn't realize you were local. Are you on STLM as well?

I have this same user name, but don't get on there very often. Seems a good place to BS and whatnot, but I have always liked the guys on this forum for technical inquiries.

 

[Mustang Matt]

Yep. That site has a few technical people and a LOT of non-technical people.

 

[Rock777]

You have to cut off the brackets and re-weld them on. The hose nipples will bend rather easily without kinking. 2 new pieces of fuel injection hose are cheap, though. Just buy new ones.

I'm thinking I might take your advice and buy new hose. The hoses on there are super close to making it work, but they are rubbing on the intake tab on the back and I'm afraid the ports won't be directly straight on top of my injectors. Plus I don't want too much lateral pressure pulling on the injectors. Only about 1/2" longer would probably do the trick.

Few questions for b dub or anyone else who might know... Is there a specific fuel injection hose that works best? Should I attach to the rails with an epoxy, or are they snug enough that I heat to put on then they shrink tight?(since stock there are no clamps) ..or should I use clamps, or both???

 

[b dub]

Fuel injection hose is definitely specific, ask for it by name. I used 2 small hose clamps per end.

 

[mwolson]

There is a better clamp to use than a hose clamp. You can get them from any hydraulic hose shop. I got mine from Royal Brass in Santa Clara. You crimp them with a diagonal cutter. Here is a high res picture where you can see the clamp: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/UnderTheHood/FuelPressureTransducer/PB260005.JPG

Here is the clamp in place on the hose: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/UnderTheHood/FuelPressureTransducer/PB260009.JPG

 

[b dub]

There is a better clamp to use than a hose clamp. You can get them from any hydraulic hose shop. I got mine from Royal Brass in Santa Clara. You crimp them with a diagonal cutter. Here is a high res picture where you can see the clamp: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/UnderTheHood/FuelPressureTransducer/PB260005.JPG

Here is the clamp in place on the hose: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/UnderTheHood/FuelPressureTransducer/PB260009.JPG

I'm not gonna go run out and take off my hose clamps or anything, but I wouldn't hesitate to use those based solely on your word, Mark. Lol.

 

[mwolson]

I wasn't suggesting you replace them. They rarely vibrate loose.

But hydraulic hose clamps are really strong and permanent.

 

[b dub]

I wasn't suggesting you replace them. They rarely vibrate loose.

But hydraulic hose clamps are really strong and permanent.

I know. Just sayin'. Dancenana, break it down!:dancenana:

 

[Rock777]

Well, I made progress today but didn't quite wrap it up. I had to cut two brackets off and grind down the tabs the best I could for clearance. I put some new fuel crossover lines on. I used Goodyear SAE J30R9 fuel injection hose, putting two clamps per end per line for a total of 8 clamps. The driver's side rail actually hit the back intake tab when mounted with no lines, so I heated them up with a torch and bent them away a bit. So now the rails are pushed down on the fuel injectors and the hoses connected and everything fits with no interference. :banana:

Now I just have to get some of the body mount hose clamps from Lowes and secure the rails and hopefully I can button everything back together. I'll post an update tomorrow.

 

[obe1_]

Could you post some pics so others can see what it should look like?

 

[mwolson]

Here is mine, modified to fit an 03 Cobra intake: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/TeksidTerminator/FuelRail/FuelRail.htm

 

[Rock777]

I got some clamps today and bolted down my rails. I used the clamps DOHCTER suggested in my same thread in the New Edge section and they worked beautifully. THey are 3/4" hose clamps, not sure of the exact name but they are the kind that go around a rail/hose/line to bolt to a fender, frame, or intake in this case. Here is the thread with a picture of them http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/new-edge-cobras-51/697725-questions-mounting-96-98-return-style-rails-99-01-intake.html

I started in up and let it idle for a while, then shut it off and watched the pressure. After about 20 minutes, it didn't lose one psi, which I was very glad to see because with the old injectors it would leak down. :banana: Took it for a drive and ran great. I inspected closely for leaks and so far so good. Overall, the rails took a little patience, but everything appears to be good now.

Thanks ALOT to everyone who offered input!!:beer:

 

[Rock777]

I knew I spoke too soon, ha. Well I'm trying to narrow down another fuel issue, may be related may not. I might start another thread also, but thought I'd throw it out there while this is open.

Here is the latest, yesterday after getting everything done, it started, idled, and held good pressure on and off. Well, this morning I started it, let it warm up, went for a short drive and came back. I then checked the pressure again while running and noticed it was slightly lower than it should ~37(hose unattached). I shut it off again to see how it held pressure after being warm and low and behold it started losing pressure again. I started it again and let it idle for a bit and again gauged the pressure, but the longer it ran it was still slowly losing pressure. Once it got to ~34 I shut it off, but the pressure dropped quickly down to 0, which its never done. Tested a couple more times, same results.

NOW, here is the weird part....so it sat all morning and cooled off. I just went out there 15 minutes ago and started it up, pressure looked good. I shut it off and it's holding it's pressure strong. I started it again, but this time pinched the return line while running, and the fuel pressure spiked quickly like it should. So, it seems as if the problem is heat related, which leaves me with some questions.

Edit: not sure if it's related, but after driving, when coming to a stop my rpms drop quickly to around 500, then jump back up to 750. It's never died, but seems like it almost does. (might be IAC, just giving all info)..Also, when good and warm, accelerating in low rpm 5th gear sounds like slight pinging (if fuel pump is weak when warm, might be detonating)??

Would a faulty fuel pump slowly put out less pressure when it gets warm, and then fail to hold the pressure when shut off?
Has anyone ever heard of a stock fuel pressure regulator failing as it warms up?
Is there something else I'm missing here?


CLIFFNOTES
-car runs, idles good, with good fuel pressure when cold
-once warm, pressure declines slightly and doesn't hold pressure when shut off
fuel pump, pressure reg.???