Ran into a couple snags installing an aftermarket steering wheel. So I made a video.
- Thread starter phoenix64
- Start date
Didn't like this one? I believe this is definitely bolt on.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...2-Ford-Racing-Sparco-Steering-Wheel-Installed
image upload with preview
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I saw that but I ran that exact wheel on my firebird for 2 years(no Ford Racing stamped on it). It just sits on my shelf now. I don't like to track flat bottom steering wheels on cars with stock slow ratio racks. It's just weird to me when you grab the flat spot.
Also I didn't need a quick release, I wanted to keep my horn button, and finally the price is a bit steep.
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That's my Sparco wheel that imeyers302 referenced. I have the horn button kit with it.
Everything was a bolt item, did not have to modify anything.
Only thing I wish I had is the control over my LCD screen. Lost that functionality with the Sparco. Don't want to have the buttons and harness dangling out the side of hub.
If you find an elegant solution to their buttons and turning off the airbag light, would love to know it.
Everything was a bolt item, did not have to modify anything.
Only thing I wish I had is the control over my LCD screen. Lost that functionality with the Sparco. Don't want to have the buttons and harness dangling out the side of hub.
If you find an elegant solution to their buttons and turning off the airbag light, would love to know it.
I actually got the airbag light to go out with this two pack of resistors. Just plug one into each of the connectors, and cycle the ignition.
RadioShack® 1.0 ohm 10W 10% Wirewound Resistor (2-Pack)
https://www.radioshack.com/products...-wirewound-resistor-2-pack?variant=5717263301
Thanks!
"Sabelt Steering Wheel SW-390 - 350mm - Suede" I bought the last one off amazon, so I'm not sure where you can get them anymore. I saw one for sale at a booth at the daytona 24 hour race, so they are still around.
The adaptor is a sparco Part #:01502204 You could use any 6 bolt wheel, but keep in mind that a flat wheel with the adaptor would actually be 1.5in further away than the OEM steering wheel.
Then you will also need the two resistors I added above.
The steering wheel is 350mm so it should =13.77in but I just measured the diameter, and it looked like 13.5in outside edge to outside edge.
I wrapped a string around the rim of the wheel, and it measured 4in exactly. I had the boss 302 wheel previously, if I had to guess I would say that the boss wheel had a thicker rim, but I gave mine away so I can't compare.
I actually got the airbag light to go out with this two pack of resistors. Just plug one into each of the connectors, and cycle the ignition.
RadioShack1.0 ohm 10W 10% Wirewound Resistor (2-Pack)
https://www.radioshack.com/products...-wirewound-resistor-2-pack?variant=5717263301
1.0 ohm 10W 10% Wirewound Resistor (2-Pack)Excellent, thanks! Would be possible to send me a picture of the resistors connected?
I have been meaning to tackle this for a long time now.
Thanks,
-Paul
That's a fair point, and why I added the disclaimer. I had the Boss 302 wheel for a year or two but it didn't make any difference as far as driving position which was the real issue for me.
The seatbelt is the biggest piece of the safety puzzle. Statistically speaking an airbag reduces the chances of a fatality in a collision by 13%. That 13% comes solely from high speed head on collisions. It's a risk I'm willing to accept to be comfortable, and not have my back hurt every time I drive the car.
No doubt I'm also biased because I bump my elbow on the inop airbag installed on the armoured wing every time I pull an armful of collective in the UH-60.
They spent millions of your tax dollars putting them in the UH-60's, and then about a year later they permanently pulled the circuit breakers across the fleet because they were causing more accidents and injuries than they prevented. Of course they left them installed because nobody wants to redo the weight and balance forms.
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So I went out and I bought the exact resistors you gave a link for after work. Opened up my wheel and put them in place and tested them out. Cycled the key three or four times and it's not working for me unfortunately.
Am I missing anything special?
Am I missing anything special?
I cycled it a few more times and eventually it went out for a solid 2-3 min.
Tested it again before I put it all back together and it came back on. Didn't work for me.
Tested it again before I put it all back together and it came back on. Didn't work for me.
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I would bet it's not making contact. I had the light come back on but it was because the resistor wasn't making good contact. Pushing it in again, and wrapping it with electrical tape made it go out again, and it has now stayed out for over a week of driving. Including two 1 hour trips.
It has to be pretty solidly wedged into the connectors.
It has to be pretty solidly wedged into the connectors.
They are definitely in there. Like I said the light went out for a little bit but then came back on. Not sure what had changed from the little time I tested them and when I began to reinstall the wheel. I took the wires out of the connectors and attached them that way and it still didn't work. Maybe I blew a resistor, if that's possible?
Damn, so after a year my airbag light is now coming on randomly.
It's always off at first, but then comes on after a few min of driving. The strange thing is that it happened right after I replaced the battery.
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