Rear clunk after UCA

stang99x

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I know this has been hashed out a few times, but I didn't get a clunk for 3 days after install. I installed the UPR solid upper and mount (because I scored the both for $120) and I put the car through it's paces pretty hard with no noise. Then suddenly today will just driving normal I noticed a clunk. It happens while shifting, mainly fron 2-3 and 3-4 and when pushing the clutch in. I know many people get a clunk but why would it suddenly appear 3 days later and not immediately? And I was listening for anything after the install and there was no noise. If this is related to the solid UCA then replacing it with an adjustable one isn't that big a deal, like I said I got the arm and mount for less than just a mount normal price
 

slick3

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I know this has been hashed out a few times, but I didn't get a clunk for 3 days after install. I installed the UPR solid upper and mount (because I scored the both for $120) and I put the car through it's paces pretty hard with no noise. Then suddenly today will just driving normal I noticed a clunk. It happens while shifting, mainly fron 2-3 and 3-4 and when pushing the clutch in. I know many people get a clunk but why would it suddenly appear 3 days later and not immediately? And I was listening for anything after the install and there was no noise. If this is related to the solid UCA then replacing it with an adjustable one isn't that big a deal, like I said I got the arm and mount for less than just a mount normal price


Did you thread lock the jam nut on the UCA? Mine came loose a few days after driving it and starting making a clunking sound. Put some blue Loctite on it, tightened it up, went out and drove it next morning and haven't heard a peep in over a year now.
 

stang99x

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Did you thread lock the jam nut on the UCA? Mine came loose a few days after driving it and starting making a clunking sound. Put some blue Loctite on it, tightened it up, went out and drove it next morning and haven't heard a peep in over a year now.

Jam nut? Are you talking about the bolt that hold the UCA to the pumpkin?
 

stang99x

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It was installed with a 1/2 impact at full tilt followed by a good tug with a 1/2 ratchet. I'm pretty sure it's tighter than dicks hat band
 

greenscobie86

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I think my car is doing it too. Which nut EXACTLY is the jam nut? Its not the one holding the bracket from inside the car is it?
 

slick3

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I think my car is doing it too. Which nut EXACTLY is the jam nut? Its not the one holding the bracket from inside the car is it?


TBH I didnt look up your specific UCA, On my BMR UCA It has a jam nut on the adjustable part of the arm. I didnt read that yours was solid, sorry. Disregard!!!

Verify the bolt on the pumpkin is torqued correctly. Torque settings on the UCA are important. Here is a link to BMR install instructions, im assuming the torque spec should be similiar..

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/UTCA032.pdf
 

BMR Tech

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If the UCA is deigned properly, to use an 18mm bolt - the torque spec is VERY important. The 2005-2010 cars, "Goodentight" worked because the TQ spec required for proper clamping forces was only 129ftlbs.

For the newer 11+ stuff, it is VERY important to ensure the through bolt is TQd to a minimum of 200ftlbs.

It may be good with an impact, but I would throw a torque wrench on it to ensure it is atleast 200. Some impacts dont go to 200, or even close.

Also, it is important when installing these items to torque the rear diff bushing while the suspension is loaded on the tires. If not, you can/will rip the bushing and have noises/issues.

Let us know what you find.
 

stang99x

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If the UCA is deigned properly, to use an 18mm bolt - the torque spec is VERY important. The 2005-2010 cars, "Goodentight" worked because the TQ spec required for proper clamping forces was only 129ftlbs.

For the newer 11+ stuff, it is VERY important to ensure the through bolt is TQd to a minimum of 200ftlbs.

It may be good with an impact, but I would throw a torque wrench on it to ensure it is atleast 200. Some impacts dont go to 200, or even close.

Also, it is important when installing these items to torque the rear diff bushing while the suspension is loaded on the tires. If not, you can/will rip the bushing and have noises/issues.

Let us know what you find.
THanks for responding. It does have an 18mm bolt. My impact is the Thunder Gun, at one time the highest torque 1/2 impact marketed so after it and a hard yank on the 1/2 ratchet I'm pretty sure it's as tight as I could get it, but I will verify tomorrow with my torque wrench (after I get the dust off it) However, your last comment has my attention. I tightened it while it was in the air (I have a lift at my disposal) The noise is like a driveshaft noise......if I hadn't just put the UCA on I'd blame it on driveshaft slop., given the noise is only heard when coming out or going into gear. You can't hear it with the radio on even at low volume, but I can feel it in the shifter. And I am anal retentive about my car, especially when it starts talking to me like this clunk. If I can't get it worked out, I think I'll get the BMR adjustable one. Thing is, I've never set a pinion angle before and I don't care to learn on my own car based on how I drive it.
 

stang99x

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Ok so I got the time to climb up in it and check everything. First, the driver side bolt on the mount had backed out an 1/8th of an inch and the washer was rattling. How this happened I haven't a clue.....I know it was tight when installed.....and it's very disconcerting given the way I drive. I tightened it back down with the force of 100 men, checked the other side (which was tight) and checked the diff mount bolt. The diff mount bolt was at (or maybe a touch over) 200lbs. I drove it briefly after having torqued the loose bolt down and I still hear noise, but it is definitely lessened and may be the driveshaft noise that I have heard before. I also noticed what seems like a slight whine from the passengers rear. I may be going a bit over the top though, as now I am listening for every little squeak, rattle or thump.
 

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