Rear Upper Control Arm Video....You're going to want to see this.....

[13BremboGT]

35psi on a street tire at the track? That certainly wasn't helping your cause with the wheel-hop issue.

Agreed, but now I am running 35psi in street tires with NO wheel hop.....that was the goal. Traction is surprisingly good now, just a quick chirp going into each gear.

 

[JUIC3D]

Agreed, but now I am running 35psi in street tires with NO wheel hop.....that was the goal. Traction is surprisingly good now, just a quick chirp going into each gear.

And now you're gear limited which will require a taller tire or a different gear.
It never stops! :burnout:

 

[13BremboGT]

And now you're gear limited which will require a taller tire or a different gear.
It never stops! :burnout:

Yep.....I don't know if I can bring myself to part with the 3.73s, they are just too much fun. My end goal is a TVS or Whipple (still up in the air about that). Probably just have to deal with the 4-5 shift.....

 

[JUIC3D]

Stock shifter? or aftermarket? If aftermarket, don't forget your Google map to find 5th gear, you'll need it. lol

 

[Fun4me]

Raise the limiter?

 

[13BremboGT]

Stock shifter? or aftermarket? If aftermarket, don't forget your Google map to find 5th gear, you'll need it. lol

Stock shifter now, would like to do an MGW.

Raise the limiter?

Not going to mess with it until the S/C goes in and at that point, I don't think it would be wise. Only reason I did the Procal was really to fix the lazy throttle response. Picking up almost half a second was a nice bonus.

 

[JUIC3D]

Hitting the limiter isn't hurting anything but his trap speed. The ET is determined the first half of the track.

 

[13BremboGT]

;-)

:banana:

Glad I could help. Amazing what IC/AS (geometry) does for these cars, huh?

Just goes to show you, buying parts with a little engineering and testing behind them, goes a long way, especially when the company tries to get you to your goals without making you spend more money than necessary.

You could have achieved this with the Relocation Brackets too, but I am glad that you got it working without spending the additional cash.

The money question is, what type of gain in ET from the completely stock UCA/LCA to the current set-up?

Hats off to the BMR guys. Could not ask for better customer service and their parts are definitely squared away. Thanks guys! :beer:

 

[Tob]

Excellent work capturing the upper arm in action. Interesting watching the poly bushing compress. I'll be shocked if it doesn't cold flow.

 

[phfelts]

I wish I had watched the updated videos before I installed my BMR stuff yesterday. I mounted mine in the top hole as well, and while it did help a lot, it still hops a little going into second. I'm going to go find a quiet road somewhere today to test out some launches and see how those feel.

I guess I might be spending next weekend in the shop as well pulling the UCA back out and moving to the bottom hole.

 

[13BremboGT]

I wish I had watched the updated videos before I installed my BMR stuff yesterday. I mounted mine in the top hole as well, and while it did help a lot, it still hops a little going into second. I'm going to go find a quiet road somewhere today to test out some launches and see how those feel.

I guess I might be spending next weekend in the shop as well pulling the UCA back out and moving to the bottom hole.

Don't even waste your time man, yank it back out of there and move the arm down to the bottom position in the mount. You will be glad you did. On a side note, I set my pinion angle to pretty much zero. NVH is comparable to stock and I cut my best 60' to date at the track today. Your results may vary on that, but definitely use the bottom position (for stock ride height at least).

:rockon:

 

[BMR Tech]

Excellent work capturing the upper arm in action. Interesting watching the poly bushing compress. I'll be shocked if it doesn't cold flow.

Believe it or not, I cannot even recall the last time we had a cold-flow issue with an UCA Bushing/s. It happens occasionally with the LCA, though.

This same UCA in this video, is doing well so far for us. It is on (3) 8-Second S197's...and over (10) 9-Second GT500's, that I know of.

We have been using it on our test-car, since November 2010, with over 14K miles and 200+ Passes, and it has been good to us, so far!

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Ive never had wheel hop issues at all, would an UCA and mount help me for anything?

suspension setup is..

k springs
yellow koni's
bmr LCA's and relocation brackets
aluminum 1 piece driveshaft

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Ive never had wheel hop issues at all, would an UCA and mount help me for anything?

suspension setup is..

k springs
yellow koni's
bmr LCA's and relocation brackets
aluminum 1 piece driveshaft

yes, you are lowered so most importantly it will allow you to correct your pinion angle.

 

[phfelts]

Don't even waste your time man, yank it back out of there and move the arm down to the bottom position in the mount. You will be glad you did. On a side note, I set my pinion angle to pretty much zero. NVH is comparable to stock and I cut my best 60' to date at the track today. Your results may vary on that, but definitely use the bottom position (for stock ride height at least).

:rockon:

I've been thinking about why there were two holes on the UCA mount. Is one meant for stock ride height and the other for lowered? My car seemed to launch fine on the street, but I don't know if it would still hop on the track. I've got a track pack car as well, so I assume that it should handle the same way yours did. I do plan on lowering my car in the near future, so if the top mounting hole is there for that reason, then I might just go ahead and order some springs. It wouldn't be that hard getting it back out now that I know what I'm doing, but I still don't want to make more work for myself. Maybe the BMR guys can school me a little?

 

[13BremboGT]

I've been thinking about why there were two holes on the UCA mount. Is one meant for stock ride height and the other for lowered? My car seemed to launch fine on the street, but I don't know if it would still hop on the track. I've got a track pack car as well, so I assume that it should handle the same way yours did. I do plan on lowering my car in the near future, so if the top mounting hole is there for that reason, then I might just go ahead and order some springs. It wouldn't be that hard getting it back out now that I know what I'm doing, but I still don't want to make more work for myself. Maybe the BMR guys can school me a little?

Stock ride height = bottom position. Lowered = top position + LCA brackets.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

Stock ride height = bottom position. Lowered = top position + LCA brackets.

So glad I've been letting this thread play out before installing my UCA, Mount, ad brackets... Great info still pouring in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BMR Tech]

Stock ride height = bottom position. Lowered = top position + LCA brackets.

:beer:

That's it.

 

[Alien STI]

great thread op, thanks.

 

[phfelts]

I don't know how I managed it, but the passenger side body bolt on the UCA mount managed to back it's way out a bit and cross thread itself. I don't know if the hole wasn't lined up when I put it in or what, but I had to take it to a shop and have them re-tap the hole. I still need to get my jam nuts tightened down good, but I've still got a bit of clunking noise that I thought would be solved after the body bolt was tightened back up. Sadly, I won't be able to get back under the car until this weekend! :bash: