Restomod/Pro Touring Build Guidance.

[Blkkbgt]

As I get closer to getting my gt back on the road my mind has started to wander into the possibilities of what I can build next.

I've kicked around picking up a used GT350, C5/6 Z06, GT track pack car and even a used SS with the 1LE package. While they are all great cars in their own right I flat out don't want to deal with the damn smog nazis in my state anymore.

Because of this I have started looking at Pro Touring cars. I have found a few on the net that I really like and absolutely love the wide tires and fender flares. I'll also add that if you're a purist and hate the idea please stop reading, I don't care what you think and you won't change my mind.

After a lot of internet searching I've narrowed the cars of choice to fastback mustangs 65,66 and 70. I prefer the 65 and 66. "Phil's custom 1970 Mustang" on YouTube made me like the 1970 idea.

With all that said I have two options for base to start with.

1 is the obvious choice of finding a fastback roller or even running vehicle. The downside here is everything in it would be tossed out. Rear end, front suspension you name it gone. There is also the potential to find major rust issues during the process that I'd have to handle. Even though I am not a purist I don't want to cut up a nice numbers matching car.

2 is to buy a shell/body that's already been worked on, repaired and is ready to go. My concern here is that the companies offering these shells seem to be using dynacorn sheet metal that has mixed reviews at best. I would also be concerned with hood, fender and bumper alignment. I also have concerns about being able to register the car once done. Some say what these shops are doing may be illegal.

To me it seems the easier and better choice is the shell. I wouldn't be cutting up an original car and I would have the foundation I want with less potential for gremlins once the build starts.

Please toss your opinions out there and let me know why you would go one route over the other. I am sure there are plenty of things I am not considering having not been down this road before.

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I would say go with shell, especially with the huge aftermarket support of brand new sheet metal for a lot of cars like that. Brand new metal will save you so much time and headaches. Rust repair is not fun, believe me. Given that this is more of a pro touring build, you're also going to save a ton of time not having to gut out and upgrade parts. You can start with what you want, and better still you're not limited by stock architecture. I wouldn't worry about alignment and fit too much if you're talking about flares, aftermarket suspension and big tires. It's all going to have to get worked anyway.

Now with all that said, if you're in CARB land, well, you might have a lot more problems in the way of registering it than building it. Maybe you're better off slapping some Mustang body panels on a Tesla...

 

[ToddW702]

I would recommend a clean car to start with. The little misc. parts you will need starting with a shell will be a nightmare. You will be surprised how many parts you reuse.


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[oldstv]

The term Pro Touring is a wide one.
What engine/trans, options are you thinking?
What is your budget and time frame?
What do you want to do with the car?

 

[Blkkbgt]

I would say go with shell, especially with the huge aftermarket support of brand new sheet metal for a lot of cars like that. Brand new metal will save you so much time and headaches. Rust repair is not fun, believe me. Given that this is more of a pro touring build, you're also going to save a ton of time not having to gut out and upgrade parts. You can start with what you want, and better still you're not limited by stock architecture. I wouldn't worry about alignment and fit too much if you're talking about flares, aftermarket suspension and big tires. It's all going to have to get worked anyway.

Now with all that said, if you're in CARB land, well, you might have a lot more problems in the way of registering it than building it. Maybe you're better off slapping some Mustang body panels on a Tesla...

Those are all valid points in regards to the time and effort required to fix any rusted or bent metal. You're also correct that if I am going this route everything will have to be worked anyway for fitment.

Regarding registration once done I don't see how smog would be a problem as anything pre 1975 is exempt.

 

[Blkkbgt]

The term Pro Touring is a wide one.
What engine/trans, options are you thinking?
What is your budget and time frame?
What do you want to do with the car?

Engine would be either 5.0 coyote or LS with a 6 speed manual.

Budget wise I am not sure but time wise I have no problem taking 5-7 years to complete the build. I just want to start this now so I can enjoy the car BEFORE I retire. I also understand that this won't be the slightest bit cheap and have no problem dropping 75k+ to get what I want. I have always wanted to build a car from the ground up so that plays heavily into my decision.

I want the car to handle very well but also want some decent comfort while cruising. I'll probably never take it to a track but I've ridden in old muscle cars and the handling always came up short.

 

[geoffmt]

I would honestly start with a new Dynacorn shell, and probably the Detroit speed catalog. He will save money in overall body work and prep starting with a new shell as compared to cleaning repairing repainting an old shell. You can buy some thing about to go to the scrap yard for the Vin number and title and attach it to the new body. My personal choices would be 65-66 fastback, Or a 69 Z28-RS


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[geoffmt]

I would honestly start with a new Dynacorn shell, and probably the Detroit speed catalog. You will save money in overall body work and prep starting with a new shell as compared to cleaning repairing repainting an old shell. You can buy some thing about to go to the scrap yard for the Vin number and title and attach it to the new body. My personal choices would be 65-66 fastback, Or a 69 Z28-RS


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[01yellercobra]

I would honestly start with a new Dynacorn shell, and probably the Detroit speed catalog. You will save money in overall body work and prep starting with a new shell as compared to cleaning repairing repainting an old shell. You can buy some thing about to go to the scrap yard for the Vin number and title and attach it to the new body. My personal choices would be 65-66 fastback, Or a 69 Z28-RS


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My cousin has a friend that's wanting to do something similar and that's what I suggested to him as well. The price of the Dynacorn shell will probably be the same or cheaper than all the body most cars would need nowadays.

 

[oldstv]

My first suggestion to you is to drive some cars that are "built" like you think you would want. It doesn't have to be the style of car but it's more about the build. Many times we think we know what we want until we experience it.
I have several cars and several different experiences, some are what I thought I wanted and some are not. I found that sound is more important than I would have ever imagined, both cabin sound and engine sound.
Do yourself a favor and be honest with yourself!!!

 

[Kevins89notch]

I vote 69/70. Everyone loves the prior fastbacks, but I just love the look of a 70 Boss or Mach 1.

 

[Blkkbgt]

My first suggestion to you is to drive some cars that are "built" like you think you would want. It doesn't have to be the style of car but it's more about the build. Many times we think we know what we want until we experience it.
I have several cars and several different experiences, some are what I thought I wanted and some are not. I found that sound is more important than I would have ever imagined, both cabin sound and engine sound.
Do yourself a favor and be honest with yourself!!!

That's very good advice. I have however ridden and driven a few muscle cars both restored and un restored and all riding on essentially stock suspension.

The handling of those cars was lacking to say the least. What I loved about almost all of them was the sound and the rawness/vibrations of the cars.

I have never driven anything like what I think I want but I know I don't want a refined, smooth ride and a car that lacks personality.

 

[Blkkbgt]

My cousin has a friend that's wanting to do something similar and that's what I suggested to him as well. The price of the Dynacorn shell will probably be the same or cheaper than all the body most cars would need nowadays.

One of my major concerns with a fresh dynacorn shell is registering it when done. This has me leaning towards a shell that has a vin already and has already been worked with new metal. The price is very similar and may save me a ton of hassle when done.

 

[oldstv]

I understand what you are saying, and recommend that you drivie a car that has an engine swap. That is a completely different driving experience.

My 66 Chevelle with a 480 hp ls motor has stock uca and lca with coilovers and rides on 20 inch wheels. That car has a completely different driving experience than my 70 gs buick with the buck engine and regular shocks on 15s.

 

[Blkkbgt]

I understand what you are saying, and recommend that you drivie a car that has an engine swap. That is a completely different driving experience.

My 66 Chevelle with a 480 hp ls motor has stock uca and lca with coilovers and rides on 20 inch wheels. That car has a completely different driving experience than my 70 gs buick with the buck engine and regular shocks on 15s.

Can you elaborate a little?

 

[Mojo88]

I did the whole 'restomod' thing with a '68 Camaro. It took way longer to finish, with many more problems than I ever would have thought. I had about $70k into the car at the end, and by the time it was 'done' (about 6 years), I really didn't like it any more, LOL. It was a very interesting experience. I sold it at a horrible loss.

So my advice to the OP is to carefully consider what you are getting into. You will be thrilled with the process for the first year or two, then it will become slightly annoying, and then it may well become tiresome.

If I was dead set on getting another older car, I would shop hard for one that was already done (or 90% done). Let someone else's loss be your gain, and you'd get to actually enjoy the car while your enthusiasm for it is still high.

Good luck!

 

[Blkkbgt]

I did the whole 'restomod' thing with a '68 Camaro. It took way longer to finish, with many more problems than I ever would have thought. I had about $70k into the car at the end, and by the time it was 'done' (about 6 years), I really didn't like it any more, LOL. It was a very interesting experience. I sold it at a horrible loss.

So my advice to the OP is to carefully consider what you are getting into. You will be thrilled with the process for the first year or two, then it will become slightly annoying, and then it may well become tiresome.

If I was dead set on getting another older car, I would shop hard for one that was already done (or 90% done). Let someone else's loss be your gain, and you'd get to actually enjoy the car while your enthusiasm for it is still high.

Good luck!

The first part of your post is disheartening to be honest. I've always wanted an old muscle car though and don't see this happening to me.

I don’t have a problem with the build taking a long time either. 5-7 years is just fine with me. I want to take my time and do everything the right way.

Looking around for a car that is 90% completed is good advice as well. The only problem would be finding the correct car with the correct goodies.

 

[oldstv]

It's really hard for me to explain. You really have to drive the swaped cars to understand.
The swaped cars have a stiffer feel, more nvh, more road feel, etc. There could be several reasons for this. The type of motor mounts, pinion angle, tire size, shock type, etc, all make a difference. This has been my experience with every one of them.
Please find some cars that have swaped and you will see what I am trying to say.

 

[oldstv]

MOJO, that is very good advice. The auctions are full of fine examples of cars just like what you described.

 

[Fastback]

I suggest a 69-70 find something that someone has lost interest in, but they have done most of the bodywork, and paint. Just needs mechanical, the Best upgrade that I have done was the Wilwood front brake kit, Tko600 Tremec with Hydraulic slave.

Detroit Speed has some amazing stuff for chassis, www.cobraautomotive.com has some cool stuff too. Doing major suspension geometry changes and pro touring stuff will get expensive, like the guy with the 68 Camaro said. Best advice is to start looking for something while the economic squeeze going on now. A lot of projects are on the chopping block!