Road course setup

[Serpent]

Who takes their 13/14 to the road course?
I want to so know what basic mods you've done to lighten the weight.

For me, first order of business is two piece rotors all around and lighter forgeline wheels.

While were at the wheel subject, does anyone know what 18" wheel fits the 6-piston setup?
Ive read quite a few posts all over the net talking about what wheels fit, but some of the replies are from people who dont know that the 13/14 has larger 15" rotors & 6-piston calipers.

Anyways, who has done the said mods and what has the car weighed when doing said mods? Also, plan on removing rear seat and spare in the trunk. I'm thinking this should shed around 200lbs total. So race weight would be around 36xxlbs. shit, maybe I should just stick to boss

I do not care about adding power, this is for road course work.

 

[redfirecobra2003]

Apex EC-7 will clear , also popular for road racing is the ccw c10

 

[2011 gtcs]

A watts link is a great suspension upgrade for road racing along with some H&R of Eibach pro springs and the stock PP shocks are good.

 

[Black Cobra '99]

Great suggestions, I have an 09 and I do race it. Just recently bought the Apex EC-7 but haven't got a chance to install them yet.
You don't have a spear tire and the seats don't weigh that much, besides you really want to lose weight on the front for better weight distribution. No easy way to do that I'm afraid.

I would suggest brake pads and tires if you just started and focus more on learning your car. Then slowly add parts so you could feel and learn the changes in the car as you go along.

 

[SteveWK]

Here's been my experience. BMR upper and lowers and panhard bar with Michelin Pilot Super Sports = big improvement but still unpredictable. I think a large part of this had to do with the MPSS's, and by unpredictable I mean spinning in an uncontrolled manner that would lead to instant oversteer. The MPSS's would spin up like they were on ice when they broke loose from being overpowered. And trust me I was being easy on them with regards to power application. Even in a straight line they would break loose, spin like crazy, and the rear would kick out. Scary stuff to me anyway. I never knew what was going to happen. Were they going to hold or go crazy and send me into the cow pasture? I checked the rear centering and thrust angle many times and it was all good, but still had this problem. Not fun.

Fast forward to the Griggs rear suspension. The addition of the Griggs torque arm, watts link, and lower control arms transformed the car for the most part. With the MPSS's I could accelerate out of turns much harder than before and with confidence. The rear felt so much more planted and controllable. That is not to say the mighty MPSSs wouldn't act up from time to time, but as long as I was sane in power application, it was all good. The occasional rear end excursion did dampen my confidence though.

And now for the final step. Toyo R888s (now known as R888Rs). Michelin can kiss my ass. These tires are light years beyond them in every respect, well except for rain and tread wear . I haven't actually been on the track with them, but my God, I'm almost ready to turn off all traction assists. I can actually control the rear of the car. These tires with the Griggs setup is pure heaven. I have never once experienced the instant spin up and sideways action like I did with the MPPSs, and my engine is modified. I can fly off of off ramps and literally kick the rear out with power on the exit of the turn with complete control. I have approximately 2k miles on them and my confidence is slowly coming back. I'm starting to trust the car. It really is fun.

So, what should you take away from the above: 1) I never had the Toyo R888s on with the BMR setup and can't comment on how that would handle, but 2) I did have the MPSSs on both the Griggs setup and the BMR, the the Griggs setup was much much much better. The Griggs setup transformed the car not only in cornering but just every day driving. 3) MPSSs suck and Toyo rules lol. Another cool thing about the Toyos is they are a road racing tire, meaning they are designed for turns.

My front suspension has BMR front control arms. They did make the car much more responsive. And I have another long story about the front end, but I really think you should concentrate on the rear imho. The way the rear behaved stock just plain flat out scared me, and I think it is the most dangerous part of the car. Work on that first.

Steve

 

[rwleonard]

I echo Steve's experience. The Griggs installer I went to calls the Torque Arm/Watts Link/LCA combo the "Just don't kill yourself package." I talked to Bruce Griggs and told him I thought he was missing out by not advertising that combo as addressing a safety issue. It really transformed the behavior of the rear end. I am running NT555 G2's this year BTW, and intend to bump up to Cup 2's or NT01's next year.

I talked to a Cortex installer/racer who told me adding the Cortex rear camber kit to his car made an even bigger difference than the torque arm. We'll have to see on that, it's $12k installed.

To actually address your initial question, I am pretty sure the folks at Vorshlag told me their Forgestar 18"x11's would fit our cars front brakes. Give them a call, they know a boatload about wheel fitment.