Send w/3.0 upper or 3.3 with #4 lower VMP 2.3 ?

KBR

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I have stock lower and 3.0 upper on my new VMP 2.3. Would you switch over to 3.3 upper and #4 lower before going to the dyno?????

read below...
Sorry if this has been answered, but I didn't find answers using the search function.
Everyone's build is slightly different so I figured I'd ask here.

I'm going to run 93 for now(maybe 2nd tune w/Torco). I have fuel system capable of stepping up to E85, but pump E85 is not readily available near me.

I have a base tune and should be getting on the dyno and tuned as soon as the weather warms up a little.


Stock exhaust manifolds

Build:
VMP 2.3 gen2 supercharger w/GT500 throttle body
3.0 upper pulley (17-18lbs boost)
JLT Ram Air Intake
SCT BA-3000 MAF
Ford Racing 80lb injectors
Fore L3 return fuel system (deadhead w/dual staged pumps and Hobbs switch)
Fore fuel rails
Metco double bearing pulleys
Metco tensioner brace
Gord’s heat exchanger
Reische 170 thermostat
PLX wireless wideband
Magnaflow O/R X pipe w/cats
Magnaflow cat back exhaust


IMG_1375.JPG
 

Comp04svt

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A 3.0 upper only vs. a 3.3/4lb would technically be the same thing boost wise. Only difference being the 3.3/4lb would provide better belt wrap, and would be better if you decided down the road to swap your upper for more boost. Thing to keep in mind though, is if you do the 3.3/4lb, it would be recommended to also change your alternator pulley as well due to the lower. Personally, I like the 4lb lower because I feel it gives me a little flexibility not having to worry about belt slip if I really want to get crazy, but if you don't have e85 or don't want to run torco all the time and only want to run a max of 17-18lbs, then I would just leave it.
 

KBR

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A 3.0 upper only vs. a 3.3/4lb would technically be the same thing boost wise. Only difference being the 3.3/4lb would provide better belt wrap, and would be better if you decided down the road to swap your upper for more boost. Thing to keep in mind though, is if you do the 3.3/4lb, it would be recommended to also change your alternator pulley as well due to the lower. Personally, I like the 4lb lower because I feel it gives me a little flexibility not having to worry about belt slip if I really want to get crazy, but if you don't have e85 or don't want to run torco all the time and only want to run a max of 17-18lbs, then I would just leave it.

I already have a brand new 3.2 alternator pulley waiting if/when needed.

Thanks for the reply.


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whitedevil95

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I would go with as much belt wrap as possible. I vote lower and 3.3. Plus when corn time comes it will be easy to just swap the upper and go.
 

Soap

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I would go with as much belt wrap as possible. I vote lower and 3.3. Plus when corn time comes it will be easy to just swap the upper and go.

I would agree......but the problem is you can not fit a 3.3" upper with the snub idler he has. So to run the 3.3" upper, the OP would have to delete that idler and figure out appropriate belt length.

--Joe
 

KBR

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"I would agree......but the problem is you can not fit a 3.3" upper with the snub idler he has. So to run the 3.3" upper, the OP would have to delete that idler and figure out appropriate belt length." --Joe

I’m glad you mentioned that...I forgot snub idler won’t clear.
What does everyone with 3.3 upper run?
I’ve read somewhere about Whipple adjustable and Steeda, but maybe a Metco 76mm on my setup? Not sure?


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whitedevil95

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I would agree......but the problem is you can not fit a 3.3" upper with the snub idler he has. So to run the 3.3" upper, the OP would have to delete that idler and figure out appropriate belt length.

--Joe
Ah! I wasnt thinking about that since I have the whipple idler that goes under the blower.
 

BLOWN9646

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I would agree......but the problem is you can not fit a 3.3" upper with the snub idler he has. So to run the 3.3" upper, the OP would have to delete that idler and figure out appropriate belt length.

--Joe

What's largest upper w/ a snub that'll fit, 3.2" ?
 

94slowbra1

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Still hard to tell from the pics. I know the snub idler gets replaced but does the factory tensioner get replaced too. Since the whipple one is a tensioner I would think the factory one would go but I'm not sure.
 

whitedevil95

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Still hard to tell from the pics. I know the snub idler gets replaced but does the factory tensioner get replaced too. Since the whipple one is a tensioner I would think the factory one would go but I'm not sure.

No it’s not a tensioner. You still keep that. It’s just a snub idler but it’s also adjustable.


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94slowbra1

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Ok, I was under the impression it was a different style of tensioner. Or at least I was hoping it was so I could get rid of the ugly factory one. Thanks for the clarification
 

SVT_Troy

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Ok, I was under the impression it was a different style of tensioner. Or at least I was hoping it was so I could get rid of the ugly factory one. Thanks for the clarification

No it’s not a tensioner. You still need a good tensioner that won’t flex or a plate on a stock tensioner. Some get away with it but run higher boost and you’ll get slip. I haven’t ran a whipple snub idler but I understand the concept behind them so they appear appealing. For I don’t have slip so I’m sticking to what I have.


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c6zhombre

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I have the adjustable whipple pulley, a factory tensioner and tab that's never been "notched" or mutilated, and a metco brace. So with those parts, a stock factory lower, a 2.6 RR upper and a gen2 2.3 whipple it works very well, especially with the new RPM belt. Love this combo, hits 22psi no slip....and never had any bearing damage in any of the pulleys. The factory tensioner alignment mark is right on the money.

The beauty of the adjustable whipple is the fact you have infinite adjustability along a small range of the belt you have chosen. So.....some time goes by, maybe your belt stretches a hair...you sense some slip...no problem, get in there, depress the factory arm, loosen the whipple pulley, slide it over a hair, tighten the pulley.....voila, no more belt slip.

I will say I'm on year 2 with the RPM belt.....I've yet to snug it because of belt slip issues. It's still holding 22psi and the belt looks great. With the gatorbacks I ran previously, I'd sung after 6 months and replace yearly. Those RPM belts are absolutely killer, love 'em. Just got to get it set up correctly the first time, with proper tension.....and they last with no squeaking.
 

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