Same here, assuming I have the kicker sound system currently with the Bass subwoofer in trunk -if that is what is implied in this thread.I have factory nav, so what does that mean?
I replaced my door and rear deck lid factory speakers with some 6x8 3-way speakers (Rockford Fosgate if I remember correctly). It definitely helped with the clarity & highs, but wasn't a drastic change.has anyone done just a speaker upgrade and if so was it better quality sound?
I was finally able to work on the installation yesterday. The 8" door subwoofers and speakers were not that hard to install. There are numerous YouTube videos showing how to get the door panel off. I can send you a few if you don't want to look for them. The back speakers by the back window were a pain... had to remove most of the inside paneling and the scuff panels from the door opening. Once everything is out, it's easy to get them in. I'm working on the subwoofer in the trunk now (ran out of time yesterday). But, the sound from the installed 8" door speakers and the new speakers in the back are a noticeable difference even with the stock Shaker amp. Much much better in my opinion, very good thumping bass. I can't wait to complete the subwoofer. The biggest pain is the wires to tap into for the trunk sub signal... there are about a dozen harnesses under the glove box, so it's not easy to find the right one. I'm returning the amp to Shelby and I'm happy with what I hear with what I've installed. Kicker said I can install an aftermarket $199 amp and that will make it that much better... so I plan to do that.
Did the rear speakers make a noticeable difference? I've been reading most of the difference will be from the front speakers, and some just move the fronts to the rear.
What 8" mid-bass speakers did you use? I've heard a lot of speakers are too deep and have fitment issues.
What kind of door woofers did you get?
Does it have stock crossovers? I dont remember from the last time i was in there.
I have both of those and like them both. My stereo install was a long road but I'm very happy with it now. I had the factory NAV and tried to just go to the 360.3, JL Audio amp, and JL Audio speakers with stealth box. The problem I ran into, as best as I could figure out, was that the factory amps require an impedance load or they go into protection mode and shut down. So I had intermittent complete loss of sound, sometimes lasting my entire drive. ****ing sucked and I couldn't figure it out. I ended up replacing the factory NAV with a Kenwood deck that gave me problems. After a little bit of ****ing with that I replaced the Kenwood with an Alpine and it's been all good since. You may or may not run into the problems I did, I saw where other people had used the 360.3 or JL Audio's offering with no problem. If you go with the 360 you'll need to hook up a laptop with Fosgate software to tune the eq and set the parameters. The 360 is no joke so you'd better know what you're doing or be prepared to spend time with it to get it right. If you do decide to go to an aftermarket head unit and want to keep your steering wheel controls you'll need an IData link and Maestro module.From what i can tell you need something like this to get the most out of any new speakers. It removes the factory eq/ processing so you can get a descent sound.
Attach it with something like this.
I've read this is a much better sub than the kicker.
If i do any of this, ill likely just drive everything with a 5 channel amp just after the 360:3, and just bypass the factory amp. Run speaker wires from the amp to the rears and fronts up to the PAC harness. Don't know the best way to tune the eq though.
Pretty sure the answer is no. I think the signal between the nav and amp isn't a normal audio signal. Some people used the JL Audio Clean sweep after the factory amp to keep the nav system. The 360.3 should have worked and I have no idea why it didn't. It can be done, it just didn't work for me.
I didn't know anything about the PAC when I was trying to get my setup straight. It looks like it might work? I might have been given some misinformation when told you can't get in between the head unit and factory amp. I'd double check with them and see what they think about not even hooking up the factory amps and just going stock NAV to PAC and then to an aftermarket AMP and aftermarket speakers. Depending on the quality of the PAC, going PAC to 360.3 to aftermarket amp and speakers would be a nice setup. Going to an aftermarket head unit ended up working out for me because it gave me room to install my radar detector and air bag controls but man did I try to keep the stock NAV. Good luck, I hope it works out better for you than it did me. Either way, adding power and speakers will make a huge difference in sound quality.What do you think about this? Supposedly lets you splice an amp in between the head unit and stock amp.
Thanks for all the information.