Shelby Kicker Install

Cobra-Master

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Has anyone here installed the Shelby Kicker system (for Shaker with Navigation) that is sold on the Shelby Store? If so, I have some questions if someone doesn't mind helping me out... thanks
 

tomshep

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Please post in this thread. I have the speakers and door bass speakers sitting in the garage. I also ordered the door adapters and wiring adapters. Just haven't started the process yet.

Tom
 

Cobra-Master

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I was able to contact Kicker tech support. Shelby shipped me the wrong amp and harness. If you have navigation, you’re stuck with the stock amp apparently or adding something after market. The Kicker after market amp that will work is only $199 compared to $499, so go figure.


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fearthesnake

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I have factory nav, so what does that mean?

Tom
Same here, assuming I have the kicker sound system currently with the Bass subwoofer in trunk -if that is what is implied in this thread.

I was going to just buy new speakers from best buy for better quality sound, has anyone done just a speaker upgrade and if so was it better quality sound?
 

JPs2013GT500

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has anyone done just a speaker upgrade and if so was it better quality sound?
I replaced my door and rear deck lid factory speakers with some 6x8 3-way speakers (Rockford Fosgate if I remember correctly). It definitely helped with the clarity & highs, but wasn't a drastic change.

I probably need to drive the new speakers with aftermarket amps in order to get the best results.
 

Cobra-Master

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I was finally able to work on the installation yesterday. The 8" door subwoofers and speakers were not that hard to install. There are numerous YouTube videos showing how to get the door panel off. I can send you a few if you don't want to look for them. The back speakers by the back window were a pain... had to remove most of the inside paneling and the scuff panels from the door opening. Once everything is out, it's easy to get them in. I'm working on the subwoofer in the trunk now (ran out of time yesterday). But, the sound from the installed 8" door speakers and the new speakers in the back are a noticeable difference even with the stock Shaker amp. Much much better in my opinion, very good thumping bass. I can't wait to complete the subwoofer. The biggest pain is the wires to tap into for the trunk sub signal... there are about a dozen harnesses under the glove box, so it's not easy to find the right one. I'm returning the amp to Shelby and I'm happy with what I hear with what I've installed. Kicker said I can install an aftermarket $199 amp and that will make it that much better... so I plan to do that.
 

Beercules

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From what i can tell you need something like this to get the most out of any new speakers. It removes the factory eq/ processing so you can get a descent sound.
www.crutchfield.com/p_5753SIXTY3/Rockford-Fosgate-3Sixty-3.html?tp=70736

Attach it with something like this.
PAC AOEM-FRD24

I've read this is a much better sub than the kicker.
www.crutchfield.com/p_13694465/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html

If i do any of this, ill likely just drive everything with a 5 channel amp just after the 360:3, and just bypass the factory amp. Run speaker wires from the amp to the rears and fronts up to the PAC harness. Don't know the best way to tune the eq though.
 

Beercules

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Did the rear speakers make a noticeable difference? I've been reading most of the difference will be from the front speakers, and some just move the fronts to the rear.

What 8" mid-bass speakers did you use? I've heard a lot of speakers are too deep and have fitment issues.

I was finally able to work on the installation yesterday. The 8" door subwoofers and speakers were not that hard to install. There are numerous YouTube videos showing how to get the door panel off. I can send you a few if you don't want to look for them. The back speakers by the back window were a pain... had to remove most of the inside paneling and the scuff panels from the door opening. Once everything is out, it's easy to get them in. I'm working on the subwoofer in the trunk now (ran out of time yesterday). But, the sound from the installed 8" door speakers and the new speakers in the back are a noticeable difference even with the stock Shaker amp. Much much better in my opinion, very good thumping bass. I can't wait to complete the subwoofer. The biggest pain is the wires to tap into for the trunk sub signal... there are about a dozen harnesses under the glove box, so it's not easy to find the right one. I'm returning the amp to Shelby and I'm happy with what I hear with what I've installed. Kicker said I can install an aftermarket $199 amp and that will make it that much better... so I plan to do that.
 

Cobra-Master

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Did the rear speakers make a noticeable difference? I've been reading most of the difference will be from the front speakers, and some just move the fronts to the rear.

What 8" mid-bass speakers did you use? I've heard a lot of speakers are too deep and have fitment issues.

The rear speakers behind the back seats did not make a huge difference, but they are better. The removal of the rear seat interior side panels are a pain! They don't want to go back in and that took some time to make it happen, but I got there.

The biggest positive sound difference came from the 8" subwoofers in the doors, and the subwoofer in the trunk. I finally completed the entire installation. The other big pain was the door sill plates... they are glued down with double sided tape, so put some painters tape around them when you pry them up with a thin plastic tool or fishing line to avoid scratching what you can see once the plates are reinstalled. I learned the hard way on my passenger side. Also, the blue sill plate connectors don't come out with the sill plates so you have to pry them out separately and reattach them.

The other issue was my subwoofer in the trunk didn't match the bracket mounting stud... Shelby/Kicker has the plate in the middle of the subwoofer, but my stud is at the back of the subwoofer, so I had to improvise, but it worked out okay.

Adding an aftermarket amp would really be the only thing left. I plan on buying a Kicker CXA-300.4 for $199 and that should bring out the deep bass at low volumes... in any case, the system sounds 100% better in my opinion, even with the stock amp. The main issues are the removal of the door sill plates and the back seat side panel, they are both a pain to reinstall, but it's not impossible. Plan on getting some skinned up knuckles but it's worth it.
 

Beercules

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What kind of door woofers did you get?
Does it have stock crossovers? I dont remember from the last time i was in there.
 

MovingZen

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From what i can tell you need something like this to get the most out of any new speakers. It removes the factory eq/ processing so you can get a descent sound.
www.crutchfield.com/p_5753SIXTY3/Rockford-Fosgate-3Sixty-3.html?tp=70736

Attach it with something like this.
PAC AOEM-FRD24

I've read this is a much better sub than the kicker.
www.crutchfield.com/p_13694465/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html

If i do any of this, ill likely just drive everything with a 5 channel amp just after the 360:3, and just bypass the factory amp. Run speaker wires from the amp to the rears and fronts up to the PAC harness. Don't know the best way to tune the eq though.
I have both of those and like them both. My stereo install was a long road but I'm very happy with it now. I had the factory NAV and tried to just go to the 360.3, JL Audio amp, and JL Audio speakers with stealth box. The problem I ran into, as best as I could figure out, was that the factory amps require an impedance load or they go into protection mode and shut down. So I had intermittent complete loss of sound, sometimes lasting my entire drive. ****ing sucked and I couldn't figure it out. I ended up replacing the factory NAV with a Kenwood deck that gave me problems. After a little bit of ****ing with that I replaced the Kenwood with an Alpine and it's been all good since. You may or may not run into the problems I did, I saw where other people had used the 360.3 or JL Audio's offering with no problem. If you go with the 360 you'll need to hook up a laptop with Fosgate software to tune the eq and set the parameters. The 360 is no joke so you'd better know what you're doing or be prepared to spend time with it to get it right. If you do decide to go to an aftermarket head unit and want to keep your steering wheel controls you'll need an IData link and Maestro module.
My system now is-
IData link/Maestro
Alpine INE-W957HD
Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 (360.3)
JL Audio HD900/5
JL Audio ZR650-CSi
JL Audio ZR800-CW
JL Audio Stealthbox

I'm not even using the rear deck speakers. The system sounds great and does great for the heavy metal/hard rock I listen to while driving. It can also drop a lot of bass if needed.
 

MovingZen

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Pretty sure the answer is no. I think the signal between the nav and amp isn't a normal audio signal. Some people used the JL Audio Clean sweep after the factory amp to keep the nav system. The 360.3 should have worked and I have no idea why it didn't. It can be done, it just didn't work for me.
 

Beercules

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Pretty sure the answer is no. I think the signal between the nav and amp isn't a normal audio signal. Some people used the JL Audio Clean sweep after the factory amp to keep the nav system. The 360.3 should have worked and I have no idea why it didn't. It can be done, it just didn't work for me.

What do you think about this? Supposedly lets you splice an amp in between the head unit and stock amp.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/aoem-frd24

Or think these might helo also? Load generating devices.

www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD/AudioControl-AC-LGD.html?tp=70736

Thanks for all the information.
 
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MovingZen

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What do you think about this? Supposedly lets you splice an amp in between the head unit and stock amp.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/aoem-frd24

Thanks for all the information.
I didn't know anything about the PAC when I was trying to get my setup straight. It looks like it might work? I might have been given some misinformation when told you can't get in between the head unit and factory amp. I'd double check with them and see what they think about not even hooking up the factory amps and just going stock NAV to PAC and then to an aftermarket AMP and aftermarket speakers. Depending on the quality of the PAC, going PAC to 360.3 to aftermarket amp and speakers would be a nice setup. Going to an aftermarket head unit ended up working out for me because it gave me room to install my radar detector and air bag controls but man did I try to keep the stock NAV. Good luck, I hope it works out better for you than it did me. Either way, adding power and speakers will make a huge difference in sound quality.
If you get the PAC, I'd still look at the 360.3 because properly tuned it make a big difference in the sound. A couple months back I had some sound weirdness going on and during troubleshooting I bypassed the 360 and man o man did the system sound different. It turned out one of my ground loop isolators was bad.so it was an easy fix.
 

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