Some kinda tick only when engine is cold?

Austin Brian

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2014 Gen1 5.0 6r80

I just noticed, in the morning when I start my car and the engine is cold, driving away I hear a slight tick type noise but only for a few moments. It goes away completely when the car is warmed up or even 5 mins into driving.
I’m at 66,000 miles it just started, I check my oil religiously and a lot. I maintain the car to a T, when I change my oil I use “platinum full synthetic penzoil 5w-20” every time for the time since I’ve bought it at 41,000. I’ve probably done like 10+ oil changes now.

but my last oil change 1200 miles ago I just did, I used regular Full synthetic penzoil. Idk if that could have a cause of anything, I know swapping back and forth between oil brands isn’t a good.

I’m goin pull fresh oil in and do another oil change with the oil I normal use, and see what happens.

heres a short vid I just started it a did very small rev hangs at 1000-1200

https://youtube.com/shorts/lvT1K6V8TEI?feature=share
 

Riddick

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That sounds like bottom end knock to me, possible bearing about to go?? At a minimum I would pull the oil filter and cut it open and look for any shavings. When you changed your oil last did you use the same weight you normally do?

It sounds very familiar to a rod bearing about to let go but its really hard to tell. Didnt you have multiple misfire codes not to long ago? Did you figure anything out with that? I hope its something minor but you might be rebuilding your bottom end soon.
 

Austin Brian

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That sounds like bottom end knock to me, possible bearing about to go?? At a minimum I would pull the oil filter and cut it open and look for any shavings. When you changed your oil last did you use the same weight you normally do?

It sounds very familiar to a rod bearing about to let go but its really hard to tell. Didnt you have multiple misfire codes not to long ago? Did you figure anything out with that? I hope its something minor but you might be rebuilding your bottom end soon.

I did have that code, I did a crank relearn and cleared the codes, no further issues on that part. When that occurred I was at WOT going very fast so I didn’t think to much about it just thought the system wigged out.

now for the oil it was the same weight and brand just different variants. When I change my oil next I will check the filter.
It’s just weird that the noise goes away literally minutes into my drive.

honestly, secretly I’ve been wanting a reason to get a built Gen2 Long Block with gen1 timing components lol. So this just might give me a reason to get the ball rolling. I love the car but now I’m at the question do I dive further into it, do some diagnostics. Potentially pull the engine and rebuild. Or just sell the car entirely and get another coyote newer with lower miles.

the biggest reason I would keep it is cause I love the S197.

but you really think it’s more of a knock than a tick?
 

Austin Brian

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To me that sounds more like a knock not a tick. You could try checking the oil pressure when cold to eliminate that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an oil pressure meter or display on the car, should I go off of that? Or directly hook up a gauge to the oil pressure sending unit?
 

Riddick

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I would advise diagnosing it quickly, pull your filter ASAP and inspect. If its worst case scenario being a bearing, if you catch it early enough you can drop the pan and change it. However, if its a bearing and you keep driving it you risk extensive damage.

I do agree you have an odd situation. From my experience in all of my rod bearing failure experiences it knocked when warm not cold...... yours is doing the opposite.

You can check your oil pressure but you obviously have it if you are driving the car. With oil pressure you either have it or you dont. Keep us updated on this I am curious of what it ends up being.
 

Austin Brian

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I would advise diagnosing it quickly, pull your filter ASAP and inspect. If its worst case scenario being a bearing, if you catch it early enough you can drop the pan and change it. However, if its a bearing and you keep driving it you risk extensive damage.

I do agree you have an odd situation. From my experience in all of my rod bearing failure experiences it knocked when warm not cold...... yours is doing the opposite.

You can check your oil pressure but you obviously have it if you are driving the car. With oil pressure you either have it or you dont. Keep us updated on this I am curious of what it ends up being.

I will check the filter, and see what’s up. Won’t be able to do that until Saturday. Goin park the car for now, unfortunately my moms cars radiator blew so I let her use my truck so goin have to get that squared away so I can use my own truck again for the time being… life lol.

thanks for the advice, I will post back here soon on what I find out.
 

Austin Brian

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I would advise diagnosing it quickly, pull your filter ASAP and inspect. If its worst case scenario being a bearing, if you catch it early enough you can drop the pan and change it. However, if its a bearing and you keep driving it you risk extensive damage.

I do agree you have an odd situation. From my experience in all of my rod bearing failure experiences it knocked when warm not cold...... yours is doing the opposite.

You can check your oil pressure but you obviously have it if you are driving the car. With oil pressure you either have it or you dont. Keep us updated on this I am curious of what it ends up being.



Here is a pic of an old coolant bottle I cut, then I tore open my old oil filter, not the current one I have on there. This is from my last oil change. Idk if those specs are from fragments of tearing apart the filter or what I’m kinda nervous now lol.
What do you think?
 

Riddick

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Hmmmm, that pic does not look promising but its honestly hard to tell. It could be tiny air bubbles in the oil or metal particles. To me it looks metallic but im just guessing. Is there a reason you were not concerned about this when you first realized it?

Once you tear open the filter housing cut out the filter media and examine that. Your not concerned with the oil itself inside but what the filter media is catching. If you see a lot of small metal particles like in the pic above you need to park your car :(.
 

BlackStang00

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I have an oil pressure meter or display on the car, should I go off of that? Or directly hook up a gauge to the oil pressure sending unit?

I’d hook up a mechanical gauge. Also what brand oil filter are you using? Most do not have a good anti drainback valve so the motor basically has no oil pressure upon startup. Motorcraft and wix are known to be good filters for this reason.

The video doesn’t work for me but try to use a magnet on the oil to check for shavings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Austin Brian

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I’d hook up a mechanical gauge. Also what brand oil filter are you using? Most do not have a good anti drainback valve so the motor basically has no oil pressure upon startup. Motorcraft and wix are known to be good filters for this reason.

The video doesn’t work for me but try to use a magnet on the oil to check for shavings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I only use motorcraft oem filters, I did run a magnet and it didn’t pick up anything. The actually paper and everything was clean no metal shavings of anything at all.

I’ll try get a new vid today leaving work and see if I can make it easier to see.
 

Austin Brian

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Hmmmm, that pic does not look promising but its honestly hard to tell. It could be tiny air bubbles in the oil or metal particles. To me it looks metallic but im just guessing. Is there a reason you were not concerned about this when you first realized it?

Once you tear open the filter housing cut out the filter media and examine that. Your not concerned with the oil itself inside but what the filter media is catching. If you see a lot of small metal particles like in the pic above you need to park your car :(.

so luckily, the paper and the internals had no metal shavings of any kind, it all looked normal and clean. However I’m still going to change the oil this weekend and a new filter, whilst cut into the the filter that’s on the car right now and see how things look.
I honestly just started noticing that noise two days ago, while leaving home and passing some cars I heard it and it got me thinking, I’m goin try to get a better video.
Like I said to the other guy I ran a magnet through the oil and it didn’t catch anything, think it’s very small bubbles.
Regardless I kinda want to tear the engine down regardless of if there really is a problem. I don’t want to risk losing my block and heads, if I have a chance to save them.

so my next step is goin be recording a new better vid, changing the oil and checking the filter. Try to check out oil pressure as well, stay tuned. I will update.

thank you
 

crjackson2134

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I don’t know from 1st hand experience, but I’ve been told that cam-phasers can cause knocking that sounds like a Rod-Knock. That might be why it goes away after warming up.

I wouldn’t be driving it too much until you nail this down one way or the other.
 

Austin Brian

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I don’t know from 1st hand experience, but I’ve been told that cam-phasers can cause knocking that sounds like a Rod-Knock. That might be why it goes away after warming up.

I wouldn’t be driving it too much until you nail this down one way or the other.

Ive heard about something like this actually, I think my memory can’t serve me right currently, I’m going to research the cam phasers and what symptoms the experience. Now that you mentioned it when I left work today I popped the hood, to see if I could listen while doing the small revs and it seemed like it was coming from the upper more of so.
 

Stangra

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I would advise diagnosing it quickly, pull your filter ASAP and inspect. If its worst case scenario being a bearing, if you catch it early enough you can drop the pan and change it. However, if its a bearing and you keep driving it you risk extensive damage.

I do agree you have an odd situation. From my experience in all of my rod bearing failure experiences it knocked when warm not cold...... yours is doing the opposite.

You can check your oil pressure but you obviously have it if you are driving the car. With oil pressure you either have it or you dont. Keep us updated on this I am curious of what it ends up being.

I experienced a knock that only occurred at cold start and subsided after a few moments (different car, not Coyote)
Turns out it was piston slap, when torn down one piston had severe wear on the skirts and a scored cylinder bore. No telling if this is the problem here without teardown, but would be consistent with non-magnetic particles in the oil. The color of those flakes looks more aluminum than bearing material
 

Austin Brian

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Hmmmm, that pic does not look promising but its honestly hard to tell. It could be tiny air bubbles in the oil or metal particles. To me it looks metallic but im just guessing. Is there a reason you were not concerned about this when you first realized it?

Once you tear open the filter housing cut out the filter media and examine that. Your not concerned with the oil itself inside but what the filter media is catching. If you see a lot of small metal particles like in the pic above you need to park your car :(.

Here are 3 videos with a cold start with revs and a warm start with revs. The noise doesn’t seem to be present as much. In the cold start video you can kinda hear it at some parts of the video but it is no where as present as my original video. Idunno what to do at this point. Like do I try and invest time on tearing the engine down? Is it just a fact these 32v 4cams engine make some noise occasionally. I’m lost almost. Still goin change the oil this weekend. Should be able to get my truck back today so I can park the car till then.

Here is a video of true cold start this morning, small revs 1000-1300

engine is fully warm, revs up to 4k

engine was off for one hour after being fully warm, small revs
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I had a rod bearing go out in my 13 GT. If you let it go it will ruin the block, crank, heads and cams. If you plan on using any of these for a future build stop now and take it apart. It's the reason I have a MPR shortblock.
 

Austin Brian

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I had a rod bearing go out in my 13 GT. If you let it go it will ruin the block, crank, heads and cams. If you plan on using any of these for a future build stop now and take it apart. It's the reason I have a MPR shortblock.

I would not mind having the engine pulled, I mean it’s a bitch. But I would like to rebuild it. But the kicker for me is I do have the desire to own a gen2 or a gen3. Now either that be having a 3-2-1 setup in my car. Or just buying an s550 out right and avoiding all the hassle of doing that.

Or I go the easier route get as much as I can for the car while it’s running well before it gets worse. Wait for the market to get back to normal and pick up a low mileage Gen2 or Gen3.

this is really a hard decision for me.
Rebuild the engine or buy a new car with a better 5.0 without messing with stuff.
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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For me I like the s197 and it's not everywhere like the s550, plus it's paid for. Pulling the engine wasn't that bad at all.
 

Austin Brian

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For me I like the s197 and it's not everywhere like the s550, plus it's paid for. Pulling the engine wasn't that bad at all.

What path did you end up going for pulling the engine, traditional cherry picker or dropping it? I have access to hoists, so I could drop the engine out with the trans. I’ve been told that’s easier. Then I could leave the engine at my shop along with the trans for the winter, and work on it.
 

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