Some questions regarding paint correction for a 1st timer!

[busta]

Hi everyone,

I'm very much interested in taking on a learning experience over the winter time to complete some light paint correction on my '94 Cobra. I'm looking into buying the Porter Cable 7424xp along with some starter pads and necessary polishes to get the job done. I've done quite a bit of reading and watching videos on the process so I think it's something I should be able to handle and will have all the time in the world. I do however have some questions if you would all oblige to answer it would be greatly appreciated.

I'd like to take my time and do this over a period of time rather than 20 hours in the garage all at once. Realistically, can I go panel by panel. Ie I wash the car, claybar a panel such as the hood in sections, buff the hood with the PC (ie light swirl remover, wax, etc) can I move on to the next panel the following night?

I was thinking maybe if I do a couple hours in the garage a few nights a week I can tackle the job panel by panel and not get bored or impatient with it. Is there any downside to doing it this way?

Also, when I watch the videos the instructor always shows him buffing the product off the car with the same microfiber towel. Do you usually complete a panel, buff it, and use the same towel across the whole car as you go along? Or do you use a fresh towel for every panel you do? I just don't want to take the risk of putting any blemishes back into the paint when wiping off the product.

LAST question, the paint is in overall superb condition for a 22 year old car but the driver side door has really lost it's luster. It just doesn't shine much anymore but there is no peeling. It's the panel that will need the most attention on the car. Is there a recommended product that can really restore a shine? If not I re-spraying would be my only option at this point.

Thanks for bearing with me and any/all questions you can answer is worth a beer if I ever meet you!

 

[Norton]

I'd like to take my time and do this over a period of time rather than 20 hours in the garage all at once. Realistically, can I go panel by panel. Ie I wash the car, claybar a panel such as the hood in sections, buff the hood with the PC (ie light swirl remover, wax, etc) can I move on to the next panel the following night?

Going panel-by-panel is how you SHOULD do it, within each stage (i.e., wash, clay, polish, seal, wax). I would, however, complete a given stage over the entire car before moving on to the next stage (e.g., clay entire car, panel-by-panel; polish entire car, panel-by-panel; etc).

I was thinking maybe if I do a couple hours in the garage a few nights a week I can tackle the job panel by panel and not get bored or impatient with it. Is there any downside to doing it this way?

I don't see a downside but, as I said, I'd complete a given stage over the entire car before moving on to the next stage.

Also, when I watch the videos the instructor always shows him buffing the product off the car with the same microfiber towel. Do you usually complete a panel, buff it, and use the same towel across the whole car as you go along? Or do you use a fresh towel for every panel you do? I just don't want to take the risk of putting any blemishes back into the paint when wiping off the product.

You should use a fresh section of towel as the current one becomes fouled. For me, this means systematically folding and re-folding the towels until all areas are fouled, at which point I start a new towel.

LAST question, the paint is in overall superb condition for a 22 year old car but the driver side door has really lost it's luster. It just doesn't shine much anymore but there is no peeling. It's the panel that will need the most attention on the car. Is there a recommended product that can really restore a shine? If not I re-spraying would be my only option at this point.

Everyone has their favorite products. For me, it's Adam's, but none of my cars needs heavy correction. What you describe on that door may require more cutting power than Adam's polishes generally provide. Many get good results with Meguiar's M105/M205 combo. Also note that microfiber pads provide greater correcting capability than foam ones.

 

[cobra1993svt]

Where in Pa are you located

 

[busta]

Thanks Norton! Great information and you answered all of my questions I really appreciate it. If I think of anything else I'll throw it up here.

cobra1993svt, I'm located in Ardmore, not far over the bridge from Marlton.

 

[cobra1993svt]

Let me know if you need any help. I've been doing detailing and paint corrections for a long time. I'm willing to help
PM me if you are interested

 

[99arboC]

Good info!
I recently tackle my 4 door f150 over 4 days not full day just a few hours at a time. Truck was pretty clean so i just used a rinseless wash. I did the hood roof one day then each side on another day and the finally front end and tailgate and added another layer of wax to the entire truck.
I would use the rinseless wash then clay polish and wax.
Another product i used which I really like is Menzerna 3in1 basically swirl remover polish and wax all in one step.

 

[STXDriver98544]

Good info!
I recently tackle my 4 door f150 over 4 days not full day just a few hours at a time. Truck was pretty clean so i just used a rinseless wash. I did the hood roof one day then each side on another day and the finally front end and tailgate and added another layer of wax to the entire truck.
I would use the rinseless wash then clay polish and wax.
Another product i used which I really like is Menzerna 3in1 basically swirl remover polish and wax all in one step.

I've been brainstorming for days about how I'm going to do my F-150, because like many folks, it's difficult and not a whole lot of fun to do 20+ hours or more in one day. I think I'll follow your split, I'd like to get it done in a weekend, I'll wash, and clay Friday, and maybe go ahead and do the roof and hood. Then do the sides Saturday and front and rear sunday. I'm going to go with Cquartz so I won't have to lay wax on top so that will save time.

 

[motoo344]

Where in PA are you? If you are local I don't mind stopping by and offering some help.

 

[busta]

Where in PA are you? If you are local I don't mind stopping by and offering some help.

Ardmore

 

[motoo344]

Ardmore

I am up in Doylestown. You are welcome to stop by when I am working and I can give you some pointers. I usually do weekends, I will be doing some work on a Volvo Polstar and Mini Cooper this weekend if you want to stop by.

 

[Mach1USMC]

One panel at a time from start to finish is how I have to do mine since I'm usually doing customers cars during the day. So you can do your car one panel at a time - but that's doing the wash, clay, polish/compound, wax/seal. You may be able to do more than one panel as well if time permits.

Norton makes a good point on product too. Go with whatever works best for you. There are many products out there that work well at various price points. Just because one product costs twice as much as another doesn't mean it's twice as good. Every detailer who's been around longer than 5 minutes has their "go-to" - you can't go wrong with Maguiars, I also have used Menzerna and CG with good success. I haven't tried Adams or Collinite yet but they are on my to do list!

 

[zPipes]

I finally just got my pc 7424. I get most of my compounds from chemical guys, like almost everything. Washes, waxes, sealants, window cleaner, tire dressings, ill most likely get the cutting compounds from them too. Side note, I use 303 on the interior, walmart online actually has a great price on the gallon.
Anyhow, hope you get your polisher, im stoked to get into it. I repainted my car about 3 or 4 years ago so I have pretty clean paint. For now its going to be basically used for a very light cut, then wax and seal. But im tired of waxing by hand so I finally pulled the trigger and this will be the workhorse from now on, not my arm lol.